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#1
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How to R&R Sway Bar on a W126????
The end of my sway bar is damaged behond repair because the bolt that holds the rubber bushings fell out and the end got battered from hitting the part it fits into.
How is the sway bar R&R? It goes thru the frame and has a 90* bend on both ends. P E H |
#2
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Everything between the engine and the firewall has to come off. Yes, even the brake master and brake booster.
If you're going through the trouble, consider a beefier sway bar off a 126 coupe. I've heard it fits. I don't know if it's worth the effort to pull one yourself, though. Sixto 87 300D |
#3
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Sixto,
But how does the sway bar go thru the holes in the frame with the 90* bend on each end? I could get the broken bar out by cutting off one end but still can't get new one in. Is the sway bar in 2 pieces inside the fire wall/engine? I have another sway bar in a parts car I can use. I'm thinking of drilling out the end of the broken sway bar, tapping threads in it and putting in a bolt. Either that or weld on a new end. P E H |
#4
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Thats probably the easiest option, and most time effective.
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#5
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AIRNUTS,
Yes repairing the broken bar would be easier then replacing it. I actually looked at all the stuff between the firewall and the engine. THere's a lot of stuff in there: wires, relays brake booster, ETC. I'm going to attempt to drill out the broken bar tomorrow. I hope its not hardened steel. P E H |
#6
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The rear bar is an easy half hour or less job, the front is a royal PITA. I agree, repair if you can and and save replacing it as the last option.
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#7
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The Job.
W126 The EPIC has BEGUN... Project "Sway" is Underway! Would this adapter work?? http://www.peachparts.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.php?page=35 Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#8
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PawoSD replaced a sway bar awhile back. I do not remember if he removed a ton of stuff or not.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#9
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dmorrison,
Sure looks like it will work. Do I get it from Phil at Mercedesshop? Thanks for the information. I was either going to drill out the end of the broken sway bar(PITA), tap threads and put a bolt in the end or cut the end off a good sway bar and weld it onto the broken one. This adapter will save me a lot of trouble. P E H |
#10
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Paul,
Check out this repair procedure by Pete Burton. He's an excellent mechanic and you can be sure that it'll work. Swaybar repair pictoral, 300SD |
#11
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Brian,
The repair job by drilling the swar bar is very close to what I was going to do before I saw the adapter suggested by dmorisson, which is what I am going to try. Thanks for the info, though. I think I will check the other side before I order just one adapter. I thought the bolt became loose and fell out, thus loosing the rubber bushings and the end of the sway bar was just beat off by hitting the metal hole of the suspension part it went into. But now I believe the end of the sway bar rusted off. P E H Last edited by P.E.Haiges; 05-29-2008 at 08:23 PM. |
#12
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Quote:
If you do it, please post on your success with it. |
#13
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Replacing the entire bar is much more fun.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#14
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Brian,
I was thinking about the welding possibly making the sway bar brittle, so I may just try the drilling repair first. If I screw it up, then I will have to get the adapter. I would hope the adapter had some weld holes in it near the end of the sway bar to keep the heat as far as possible toward the end of the sway bar. If there are not weld holes there I might drill some. One thing that wasn't in the drilling repair write up was to start drilling thru the threaded area in the end of the sway bar with a drill the size of the threads to get the hole started in the center. Then U can start using a smaller drill for a pilot hole. Its always easier drilling a larger hole by drilling a small pilot hole first. P E H |
#15
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pawoSD,
That's the kind of fun I don't need. P E H |
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