85 300D - what to look for when buying
 

Hi all,

I'm going to go see an 85 300D this weekend. The guy is selling it for $975 - I'm guessing it is either junk or he doesn't know how much it is worth. 221,000 miles, post says runs great, looks great, some rust. This could be good...

Apart from the normal things to look for, is there anything that is a time-bomb type of thing to look for on these models? I've looked at a couple of w124s so I am slightly familiar with them, but have never looked at a w123. I plan on doing a quick blow-by test, and if it seems good enough I will try to take it somewhere to get checked out...but for that price, I am willing to make repairs! I'm just going to assume that the a/c doesnt work, but oh well..you never know.

I guess I am just looking to see if there are any "walk away" signs to look out for.

Thanks

Rust is the biggest killer and most costly thing to repair. Check out the jack points, rear floors under the carpet (the carpet just lifts up) trunk sides, below the battery, and the rocker panels.

rear floors under the carpet will have sound deadner covering the metal... ya gotta pull THAT up to look for rust. I would look under the car, but undercoat can conceal rust too...
like said, look in the jack hole area, look in the fenderwells, look EVERYWHERE for rust. "some rust" in illinois could mean the door handles ain't fallen off yet...

look in the hood spring pockets for rust, look UNDER the battery tray... you will need to pull the battery and look with a mirror and a light.

there are millions of rust free examples to choose from, in other states from you, I would save my 1000.00 and look to spend another 1000.00, and find a clean one.
I have two that will be going for sale soon that are rust free in the 2 to 5K price range...

Yeah, i hate rust. My Cougar is getting pretty bad, however, I don't see it giving me any problems anytime soon. And if it is just some minor spots, I can fix those for the time being. I'm really only looking to keep it for 3 years or so.

A question regarding blow-by, I have seen some videos of some real smokers...if the engine does have some smoke coming out of the oil input, is this something that can be fixed? I've heard some say that needing a valve adjustment can cause this, while others say it is from worn piston rings.

I'm thinking I should just take it in and have someone else look at it, lol.

Rust. Suspension components in the front end. If you are real serious, a compression tester will tell all. HF has em for like $40. It can make the difference between a $1500 and a $500 car.

Insist on a cold start by requesting owner not run engine for 12 hours before you come to see it.

What he said!
Remember to touch it to see that it isn't warm. If it is - walk

If possible, try starting it when its in the single digits outside. Take it from a hobbiest with a MIG welder, rust sucks. It may not be so bad when you are under 30, but at 45 it sucks. Time, $$, and hard on your body. Write down how many times you say it only needs this.....
Also, its a buyers market IMO right now. Best of luck, and its easier for me to say this than for you to hear it, but there will always be another "good deal" just around the corner. (LOL, like I'd listen to that one) :D

Dave

I'm in my 20s and still hate it. I would rather do an engine and transmission swap that fix a floor board.

I'm still waiting for the guy to respond to my email! I emailed him about 4 hours after posting so I assume that he didnt sell it in that time...I am getting anxious! Its the weekend and it has been two days

You are right, there will be more around the corner. I was actually hoping to get a w124 but for this price I'll take a 123!

Here's a link to it...can't judge much by it but it seems to be at least ok
http://chambana.craigslist.org/car/700027894.html

I would think if there were major problems, they would list them. But you never know