Well, last month I put my 79 240D up for sale and the same day the timing chain tensioner let go. It still starts right up but the slapping is pretty bad. I'm not sure I'm going to have time to fix it. I've probably got 3.5k in the car, not counting my work, but I know it's not worth that in perfect condition, especially in S Cali. Here's the scoop.
I'm moving to Kansas in about 4 weeks, I could tow this thing there, but the extra fuel cost would be about $240.
I can take offers and just let it go.
I could pull everything I could possibly use off it and junk it, or burn it and call it a sacrifice to the gods for my journey in my 83 240D.

The car has some rust, it has a great interior, new Perelis, nice stereo and speakers. I've rebuilt all the calipers, new brakes, new fuel lines, alternator, fuel shut off valve. Everything worked perfectly up until I was about to sell it and the door lock stopped working, the engine will shut off after a couple of minutes if you lock the door. I have to make a decision next week. I love this car and it was hard enough to put it up for sale, but now I am truely torn.

I know you lovers of the MB will give me solemn advise

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Resurrected Nov 2010 - 79 240(SD) with 83 617 engine and 4 speed manual, 2.88 rear and 2.5" straight pipe unknown mileage (Salmon)
83 240D parting out
96 Dodge Cummins 5 sp 4X4 long bed - 310k

http://flickr.com/photos/11103112@N03/

I would not junk the car just cause the tensioner is shot. I recall it being a fairly simple job.

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1979 240D with a 617 turbo diesel.

Just the tensioner, or was it the rail also (chipped cracked?)
tensioner is easy enough and worth your time. Rail means upper pan comes off

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yeah, dude I wouldnt scrap it, fixx it, the tensioner isnt more then $150 or so and the fuel costs are meager, think of it this way, it is a 2nd chance to drive through the country in one of the best built vehicles of all time. . .

shyt, your not gonna get what it is worth as a 2nd vehicle that you know the history of and maintenance on. Cut your losses and fix it and keep it...If not, let me know Ill give you the price of the fuel and fly out with a tensioner and some tools. . j/k. .

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". . .back before accountants designed cars"

-Current Stable-
'78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen>
'85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison>
'98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel>
Long Gone...
'74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4
'83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe
'98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320
'88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel

Where in Kansas are you moving to?

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

Lawrence.

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Resurrected Nov 2010 - 79 240(SD) with 83 617 engine and 4 speed manual, 2.88 rear and 2.5" straight pipe unknown mileage (Salmon)
83 240D parting out
96 Dodge Cummins 5 sp 4X4 long bed - 310k

http://flickr.com/photos/11103112@N03/

Don't know, I haven't pulled the cover.

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Resurrected Nov 2010 - 79 240(SD) with 83 617 engine and 4 speed manual, 2.88 rear and 2.5" straight pipe unknown mileage (Salmon)
83 240D parting out
96 Dodge Cummins 5 sp 4X4 long bed - 310k

http://flickr.com/photos/11103112@N03/

The upper pan does not need to be removed to replace the tensioning rail. That said, it is still a huge pain in the A$$. You would have to buy or fab a puller to get the pin out of the front of the engine.

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1979 240D with a 617 turbo diesel.

Not entirely so......confucious says remember the pebble game....add stones and the water gets higher.....

Translation, a bolt of the correct size to fit the threads in the pin, some washers that are large enough to let the pin pass through, one washer on top to fit the bolt head, wrench bolt in to pull pin out, continue adding washers until it's out., if it gets loose enough a screwdriver blade under a washer acts well as a prybar.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Heck, ye caint even pull the valve cover to see whats going on? Even though chain tensioner's less than $100 part and we can talk ye through what it takes to replace - yer probly right in junkin the car on account of you havin zero interest in keepin it on the road. Toss it on Craigs for $500 why doncha.

Must be primetime for disposable product generation when ye caint even toss another coupla hundred dollars into 4-spd 240D replacing both the chain and tensioner gittin another 100k miles easily outa the car.

Hope ye enjoy whatever japanese junk ye replace it with.

I attempted this route and busted the bolt flush in the pin. lots of broken drill bits, and a tap set later i got that sucker out. I ended up tapping the pin inserting a long bolt, and used a piece of metal with a hole in it to make a slide hammer of sorts. I also had to remove the sprocket from the camshaft to make room to pull the slide tensioner out and install the new one. It was no fun

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1979 240D with a 617 turbo diesel.

There is no Japanese car in my future. If you read the post you'de see I have another MB I need to drive to Kansas. It's not about my wants, it's about what's practicle under the circumstances. I've spent the last 4 years keeping these things on the road, but I'm out of time, money and a place to park 'em.

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Resurrected Nov 2010 - 79 240(SD) with 83 617 engine and 4 speed manual, 2.88 rear and 2.5" straight pipe unknown mileage (Salmon)
83 240D parting out
96 Dodge Cummins 5 sp 4X4 long bed - 310k

http://flickr.com/photos/11103112@N03/

Got meds?