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  #1  
Old 06-03-2008, 12:45 AM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
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Location: Vancouver WA
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Pulling Springs, what else to replace?

I will be pulling my springs to replace them with vogtlands soon. So far I plan to do the inner and outer LCA bushings, what else should I do while the springs are out?

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

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  #2  
Old 06-03-2008, 09:40 AM
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outers- you mean the stay arm bushings?

also- what shape are the stay arm mounts on the body end of the arms? they are replaceable later, but you would need another alignment.

I did all bushings and ball joints while I was in there.
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2008, 11:08 AM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
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Yes, the bushing between the guide rod and the control arm. My goal is to replace any parts that can only be replaced with the springs out. I could probably use a full front end rebuild, but don't have the $$ now so I am doing it in stages. The first stage is to install Vogtland springs
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1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2008, 11:17 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Do the lower ball joints, LCA bushings, and guide rod bushings.
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91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

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  #5  
Old 06-03-2008, 12:13 PM
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I would do the lower balls, too- it is a pita to get them separated w/out ruining the boots anyways.

you can come back to the UCA's and sway bushings later- if you dont ruin the upper boots. maybe get a loaner front end service set from mcparts- it may save all the boots for you.

I think my front overhaul was less than $300. the rear cost more because I had to replace the T arms.
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2008, 12:17 AM
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what did you replace and where did you get it for that price? I'm at about half of that with just ball joints, guide rod and LCA bushings. The Guide rod mounts alone are nearly $200 here.
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1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #7  
Old 06-04-2008, 12:54 AM
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I did not replace the mounts. that would have added $150ish. I reckon they can be replaced w/out pulling the spring, so.... I may have to pay for another alignment sometime down the road.

balljoints,UCA's & inner& outer LCA bushings-AHAZ
new sway bar& bushings (a year or so back.)-dealer.
new (recently) bils. -Schuman.
tie rod- dealer
new calipers and discs- local source.
michelins from the locals.
good used set of accumulators- $12 @ the PNP.

it's finally riding like a luxury auto.
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  #8  
Old 06-04-2008, 02:58 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
what did you replace and where did you get it for that price? I'm at about half of that with just ball joints, guide rod and LCA bushings. The Guide rod mounts alone are nearly $200 here.
Yikes.. Prices shot up that much since last year?!? I paid 50 bucks for each mount locally. You can get Febi's at buymbparts .com for like 62 bucks.

Definitely change them out, along with lower ball joints, LCA bushing and the guide rod bushings.
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  #9  
Old 06-04-2008, 10:59 AM
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Well I did a bit more looking around under there and the only rubber that is not cracked and split are my lower ball joint boots. One of my upper ball joint boots is cracked nearly in half, so I guess I will just do the full enchilada. Should I replace the lower ball Joints anyway, or is the rubber a good indicator of overall ball health?

Any tips on the rebuild Delivery Valve? I know you posed a good pictorial on schuman's but I can't access it any more.
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1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2008, 12:51 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
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OK, here is my parts list:
2x Ball Joints
Left and right UCA
2x Lower inner control arm Bushing
2x Lower outer control arm/guide rod bushing
2x Guide rod mounts

Total $311, not too bad I guess.

Am I missing anything?
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2008, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Well I did a bit more looking around under there and the only rubber that is not cracked and split are my lower ball joint boots. One of my upper ball joint boots is cracked nearly in half, so I guess I will just do the full enchilada. Should I replace the lower ball Joints anyway, or is the rubber a good indicator of overall ball health?

Any tips on the rebuild Delivery Valve? I know you posed a good pictorial on schuman's but I can't access it any more.

The rubber is somewhat a good indicator of good health. What is important is that there is no play or clunking on the joint.

As far as replacing it anyways? I am probably the worst person to ask as you know I went postal on my suspension because I had "might as well syndrome"!.

Any case if you are going all out, my best friend was a 3 lbs ball peen or cross peen hammer. I popped out almost every joint by swinging this hammer hard at the joint eye... Don't worry these cast iron parts are really tough and can take this kind of hammering. I didn't use a ball joint puller but I did use a pickle fork on some joints. The pickle fork would definitely destroy the boots on the old joints. Another tip is never hammer down on the bolt end of the joint, you'll mushroom it and never be able to take them off.

As far as the lower ball joint, I used a big impact socket and a hammer with heavy swings to wack them out of the steering knuckle. Not too a bad of a job there.
But installing them back into the knuckle, I would recommend shop around to see who and how much someone can press them in for you. I don't recommend pressing them in yourself.... Unless you have access to a real hydraulic press.

Regarding the LCA bushing, they are in two halves and a center metal bushing keeping them aligned. Dig into one side and pop the other side out.
Installing them.. I think I put the new rubber bushings in the freezer over night, then spayed them with Windex and installed them using the AutoZone ball joint press (which I used to install one of the lower ball joints). On the outer part of the bushing, there are tabs make sure you note where the tabs are oriented originally on the old bushings and make them the same as the new ones.

Other notes are that I had to widen up the spring tower hole to get the compressor through it and mark the position of the old guide rod mount setup by counting the threads that are showing and replicate that on the new mount.

Hope this helps.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2008, 01:12 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
OK, here is my parts list:
2x Ball Joints
Left and right UCA
2x Lower inner control arm Bushing
2x Lower outer control arm/guide rod bushing
2x Guide rod mounts

Total $311, not too bad I guess.

Am I missing anything?
Check to see if your sway bar bushings under the battery tray and power brake booster are in good condition since your touching the UCA.

Good luck and have fun!
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2008, 01:14 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Do you have a good vise? You will need one.
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2008, 03:04 PM
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I have a large vice. It is from harbor freight so it's not a really good one, but it does squeeze things.
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1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #15  
Old 06-04-2008, 03:33 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Bah HF is going to be equal to 90% of the tools out there. And a vise is a vise is a vise. You just want a big enough one to grip on to the plate (around the spring) when unhooking them. Have you seen the Klann howto video?

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