well- on a buddies car- 85 300D-

He brought it over for me to check out because he didnt have any power.

I hooked up a temp boost gauge, and got vac at higher revs, and 0 boost. removed the 180* tube, and discovered the compressor would not turn freely.
it just budged. so I worked it a bit, and got it free'd up- but it howls like an amubulance siren now. and still no boost, only vac.

checke d the shaft- it has a bit of play. I reckon the bearings are shot and the compressor is rubbing the housing.

so- now a bit of history.
I bought a nice rust free car w/ a bad engine. he had a beatup 300D w/ a good engine. we swapped the engines out. during the swap- his compressor turbine was discovered to be worn out.? dont really know how, but the blades were chooched.


so we swapped the turbo off the other engine- ( a bad rod knock, most likely caused by the ruptured oil cooler line.)

we completed the engine swap. I drove the car a bit- did not hear anything out of the ordinary- but noticed the car was a dog. not too big of a deal, I thought- my car was fairly doggy when I first bought it. took a lot of time to get where she is now.

So he started driving it last week, and now we're at this point.

I am guessing the best thing would be finding a used unit- from a good source(member?) to replace it w/ vs a rebuild- as I reckon the thing is prolly slightly abused, and not one for me to cut my teeth on.

on the other hand- I have 2 turbos to use to try to make one, and have sourced kits(bearings/seals) for $60-$100, depending on what's needed.

maybe to rebuild it better?( different trim??) of course, this is not for my car, and stock is prolly just fine.

but I have not messed about with a turbo-charger before.

Any-

input?

Advice?

parts for sale?


thanks-mo

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

rebuilding a turbo is not difficult - simply pay attention to the order in which you are removing things and take lots of pictures. You may find that removing the turbo is the hardest part - I ended up having to remove the intake manifold to remove it from my car. Removing the nut on the compressor wheel isn't always easy - you'll need to grip the nut at the end of the turbine to keep the shaft from turning, and then loosen (CCW) the nut holding the compressor wheel on (I used an electric impact wrench as it was really tight, and to prevent any distortion of the shaft from lateral forces). Removing the turbine housing was a REAL bear as years of carbon buildup had really snugged it into place. A mallet and a brass punch come in handy here.

When you dissemble the turbo, spray all of the nuts with something like PB blaster to free them up because they will be VERY tight from the heating/cooling cycles over the years (esp. turbine housing bolts). Be prepared to use a breaker bar and a mallet to loosen the fasteners.

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Vehicles Owned:
1983 Mercedes Benz 300D ~ 212,000 miles
2005 Mazda 3 S ~ 96,000 miles

If you think the engine was damaged due to oil starvation from a ruptured oil cooler hose than it is logical that the turbo also was starved for oil too.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Buy a used turbo from a forum member, or find a good one at the local yard.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

OK- so the 85 MY has a vacuum line coming off it which my 84 MY does not. any ideas on this one? is it related to the EGR? or the tranny? i wonder about using an earlier MY Turbo.

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.