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#1
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Would you buy a frankencar?
So simple question, would you buy a frankencar and why?
I see these w123's that are a california model converted federal, 1984's with a 1980 non turbo engine and transmission installed, non turbos with turbos installed, 1983's with a california engine and tranny and many other combinations. Personally, I would NOT buy one because: 1: The car is no longer original (not that its a Gullwing or anything, but its nice for numbers matching your build sheet). When you do go to resell it yourself, you may take a big hit if the prospective buyer is a purist. 2: ordering parts may be an issue because the dealer goes off VIN for some parts and with the engine and tranny all switch, your tranmission modulator, etc. may not be correct when you go to pick it up at the dealer. Certain years they did things slightly different and if you are not aware of it, then you got a lot of sending parts back and forth stuff going on. 3: If the guy was too cheap to fix the car properly (rebuild the tranny vs. going to pick and pull) he probably took short cuts in other repairs. What are your thoughts? |
#2
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Usually no, but I imagine it would be on a case by case basis.
If the job was done by someone who knew what they were doing, and everything was well documented, a Frankenbenz could be a good driver. I would expect to pay considerably less than an all original car, just common sense. Is there a car like this calling your name?
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k 1980 240D Stick China 188k 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! |
#3
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Many here would probably take offense at you calling a pick and pull repair an "improper" repair. These guys here who go to the pick and pull (including me) are not shadetree mechanics, we're fixing the problems correctly by replacing broken parts with working ones. We may be cheap, but that's because we're not as willing to let hard earned money fly out of our wallets so quickly in order to spend hundreds of dollars for a small item (vacuum control valve for example) at the dealer. That same item can be had from the pick and pull for a considerable discount to make the car operate as the manufacturer intended without compromising safety. I also saw that you inquired about a used 300TD tail light assembly recently in the Parts Forum. Wouldn't installing that on your car make it a "frankencar", or would make it look like you were too cheap to find the real deal from the dealer?
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later! -German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123. Last edited by H-townbenzoboy; 06-05-2008 at 02:55 AM. |
#4
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i do see problems with install turbos on the non turbo cars only because the engine wasn't designed for it and so longevity has been Greatly reduced, but anything else would sound reasonable to do.
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#5
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I build frankencars
It's not a big problem ordering parts, around here they usually ask for the license plate number to get the model information, but I just have to politely explain that it's no longer the original engine or transmission, so they can do a search based on what chassis my engine/tranny is from. I don't worry about reselling value. There are enough nice original unmolested W108/W111's around Europe, so a purist can get one if they want so. Of course a conversion is no longer original, and thus a potential buyer might worry about the quality of the conversion, but I don't think this would be a problem if you just point out the relevant bits and let the buyer check the quality of the craftmanship. Best luck with frankencars!
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Tomas, Sweden 1966 Mercedes Benz 230S with OM617.912, automatic. Disk brakes from W108 1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD grey, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual 1983 Mercedes Benz 300TD blue 7-seater, OM617.912 and 5-speed manual |
#6
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As a daily driver, if priced appropriately, and if the work was done well, sure, why not?
I wouldn't pay a one-owner-original-car premium price for one, but one that's priced right and a decent driver - no problem.
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown |
#7
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2nd, yes I did buy a NEW driver side taillight and now a passanger side. Buying a used taillight from another wagon is a little different than taking a 1985 california model and sticking a 1980 non turbo engine and tranny in it. If you look carefully at some ebay cars, you can tell it has the wrong instrument cluster for the year/model. I have seen 240d clusters in 300D turbos with *supposedly* low miles. Tyler- no there is no particular car calling my name. I just see these cars on ebay, craigslist, etc. from time to time. |
#8
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It is something to think about, and check to see if its been done correctly with original benz parts or a cobbled up mess.
I went to look at a car once a nintey something or eighty something 300e which had a later front dog house on it. I was pretty excited about the car until I looked down in the engine compartment and saw some parts replaced by obviously non benz parts bought from the hardware store and soldered in. The car also had a high speed miss and the seller got bent out of shape because I pushed it to the redline on two shifts in a row to be sure it ran right, saying "mercedes aren't built to drive like that". Hogwash! The're built to run flat out on the Autobahn from one town to the next,. however far that might be. So, it all depends on whether its done properly or not. A seller with the wrong attitude will give me happy feet quicker than anything. Another time I went to look at a beautiful maple yellow SLC and the seller wouldn't let us drive it saying it had no insurance. ... Happy feet. Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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Would you buy a frankencar?
Its a case-by-case basis. If its a hack job, run away. If its a well documented change and its something you want then go for it.
I build frankencars too and I'm proud that mine is a frankencar. I don't give a rat's rear end if it's not a "purist's" 240D anymore because its exactly the car I want it to be. "Numbers matching your build sheet" only matters to collectors and obsessive owners. News flash: These aren't collectors cars. |
#10
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Documented is the big thing, you need to know exactly WHAT was changed, in order to service the car. Most of us on this list are do it yourselfers, so the usual servicing problems go away. Case in point, after my brother bought my 69 Olds Cutlass Convertible, he installed an aftermarket front disk brake setup. Used calipers from another GM car, I think it was a Trans Camaro.... Now, what happens a couple of owners down the road when the car needs new pads, and the swap info has been lost? It's going to be a real hassle to open box after box and match up a set of pads..... Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#11
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Well, here is another reason I ask, I am also into gassers too, and with w123's and many diesels, electronics is not that big of an issue.
But on some of your british cars, etc. If you pull the dash out or look underneith it, on *some* franken cars, you will find the wiring harness is spliced together with butt connectors and the wiring harness is peeled back for the slices, etc. My thoughts are: a) I was not there when the PO or previous mechanic did the work, who knows what learks behind that dash. b) if this car doesnt start, the original wiring diagram, original vacuum diagram, etc. may not be very helpful. c) if I take it to the bentley dealer or mercedes dealer, they are going to have the same problem I am going to have with it being all non-original and charge more time for diagnostic. More time to diagnose the problem = more money in labor. d) Once the car changes hands a few times, you may not know what year that engine came out of, which may make ordering stuff harder. Tom - with the SLC, that is BS. Not allow you a test drive. Did he at least have a few acres of land to let you move it around on? So with "me", I tend to stay away from stuff that is too heavily modified or frankenfied for the reasons above. |
#12
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I hope that guy has another car to get him back and forth to work/school while he does the trial and error method. |
#13
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I'd rather have a 240D 3.0 but that's not really a realistic goal. I'd buy a Frankencar, most likely. If for no other reason than to ensure I've got manual climate control.
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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror 231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER |
#14
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I'd buy one if it was done right. The problem is they usually aren't and some sellers are actually under the impression that taking, say a 450SEL and putting an OM617 into it makes it worth as much or more than a 300SD but it never does. Most people undertake these projects for reasons other than money but when they think they can make a profit doing it they find that usually isn't the case.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#15
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Unless you're planning on selling it, why should you care what your car might be worth to a purist? The best part will be just that. The machine won't care.
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