Is the rear subframe mount a DIY? Any of you done it?

Some people say its easy and you remove the 3 bolts and triangle bracket and use pryers and a jack to press it back in. Other say you gotta becareful of it crushing you under the car

Hi
I'm sure loads of peolpe have done it - me too. Undo it and pry it off. Use a jack to force it back into position. It's good to get the car up high enough, but like any time you're working underneath, you need to be 200% certain that it won't fall on ya. Specially as you might be using the Ford Special Tool #3 (big hammer)
Go for it, no worries
Giles

You'll need to support the subframe with a jack while you remove the big bolt in the center of the subframe bushing.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

is the subframe bushing 1 peice or two peices? In the performance products catalog, it looks like there is a large bottom mount and a smaller circular top mount.

I dont see how the top smaller circular mount can be changed without dropping the whole subframe?

P.S. did you guys shop around to see how much book time is allowed for this job or the costs?

It's not immediately obvious but, the rear springs push the subframe downward at the front bushings. Also, I always do this operation with the car on the ground. It is a big help to have two jacks also...one to support the subframe and one to push the bushing into place.

Support the subframe with a jack just inboard of the bushing and keep the subframe assembly tight against the body of the car. Remove the long bolt out of the center of the bushing. If the bushing doesn't want to come out, you can use a big wide screwdriver or a nail bar to pry the bushing loose from the cup where it sits in the subframe. Once the big bolt and bushing are out, it's easy to let the subframe down enough to take out the top doughnut.

When installing the bushing, use PAM cooking spray (KY would work too) to lubricate the bushing cup and bushing. This will greatly ease the effort needed for assembly. Sometimes it is hard to get the big bolt started into the threads. Be patient and don't crossthread it.

I've had these bushing jobs go easy and some be a real PITA. Plan on a afternoon to do both sides

Be careful, good luck.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

your not talking about the rear diff mount, correct?

I've used silicon spray lube for all my rubber bushing installs.

I had both sides of mine w/ the bolt seized to the bushing. a lot of time w/ a long breaker bar+ cheater to remove,(air compressor couldnt keep up) then cut the old bushing lengthwise w/ a dremel tool- do not cut the bolt.

took me 2 afternoons because of this and my lack of patience- sometimes it is better to walk away and relax, come back w/ a fresh outlook.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

May want to check with the dealer to see what they would charge. They may have a special tool that makes it quick and easy.
I had a 86 535i and did the bushings, Think I burned them out but it was a long time ago. Anyways when I was picking parts up one time the guy said that its not the expensive to have done becuase they have a special tool that pops them out in place.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

Well,

I got my car on the rack today and its confirmed, one of the mounts collapsed and is causing the car to sway in the back.

Let me ask you guys that did this before this... Is it possible to do this job WITHOUT using jackstands. Just use a floorjack to hold up the trailing arm and use that 6-8 inches of space between the body and the concrete?

Then use a smaller/lighter duty floorjack to press it in. I ordered the parts from the dealer today, but not sure if I will have enough clearance without jackstands.

I just dont like using a lot of torque, hammers, etc. while my body is under a car being supported by a jackstand

Did you read my post?
...I always do this operation with the car on the ground. It is a big help to have two jacks also...one to support the subframe and one to push the bushing into place....

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

ahh thanks Leo, sorry, for some reason I was thinking 2 jackstands...

Ok, what if the jack on the trailing arm was to slip off or I overturn the jack counter clockwise, will the trailing arm just drop a few inches or all the way to the concrete?

I think I am going to try it myself. P.S. I also ordered a new differential mount while I am at it.

Ok, I am sure glad I didnt try doing this in my driveway! On the passanger side, the bolt seized to the bushing collar. I broke a 1/2 rachet and ended up taking it to a friends shop to use the rack, impact wrench, and more professional tools.

With the bolt seized to the collar, it was a pain to remove and the triangle bracket was "stuck", so the bolt had to be cut in order to free and reuse the bracket.

So the new subrame mounts are installed, but there is a 1/4 or so gap sticking out still. I looked at my other w123 (its a low mileage, 1 owner car that hasnt been worked on much) and the subframe mount is nice and flush.

When "pressed in" using a jack, the mount goes in ALL the way, but when you remove the jack, it pops back out a little bit. I was hoping that when tightening the bolt, it would draw the rest of the mount up so that it would be flush again, but that is not the case, so whats wrong?