Bad Window Regulator or Switch on a 98 E300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

hobbitss · #1 06-06-2008, 01:01 PM

I've done several searches ie. Bad window switch, bad window regulator etc..and I've seen plenty of repair instructions and noted that early w210s had rear regulator issues but nothing on how to determine whether the switch is bad or the regulator...

The drivers window on my 98 E300D is the one that is now non-functioning and I would rather not butt heads (if possible) with Mr. Murphy and his laws by blindly swapping out parts...

Thanks in advance for any wisdom sent my way...

nhdoc · #2 06-06-2008, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbitss

I've done several searches ie. Bad window switch, bad window regulator etc..and I've seen plenty of repair instructions and noted that early w210s had rear regulator issues but nothing on how to determine whether the switch is bad or the regulator...

The drivers window on my 98 E300D is the one that is now non-functioning and I would rather not butt heads (if possible) with Mr. Murphy and his laws by blindly swapping out parts...

Thanks in advance for any wisdom sent my way...

Getting to the switch is easy, just pop out the ring around the shifter and remove the wood holding the switch assemblies. I'd start there and see if you can swap the switch from the passenger side to the drivers side to test. Then you would know if it is the switch or the regulator.

hobbitss · #3 06-06-2008, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc

Getting to the switch is easy, just pop out the ring around the shifter and remove the wood holding the switch assemblies. I'd start there and see if you can swap the switch from the passenger side to the drivers side to test. Then you would know if it is the switch or the regulator.

Good Idea, Thanks... Do you know if the wires are long enough to reach across the switch assembly?? I believe all those switches are connected as one big part...

Thanks...

nhdoc · #4 06-06-2008, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbitss

Good Idea, Thanks... Do you know if the wires are long enough to reach across the switch assembly?? I believe all those switches are connected as one big part...

Thanks...

I don't remember, sorry. Best to just pop it out and see if you can swap them. You could also probably figure out how to test the switch once it is out if swapping wasn't an option. If you have an ohm meter you can check to see if the switch closes once you figure out which contacts are supposed to close when you push "open" and "close". Good luck.

winmutt · #5 06-06-2008, 02:19 PM

Are the new models not like the older ones? On the older models you can pop the switch apart and clean the inside.

nhdoc · #6 06-06-2008, 02:33 PM

Now it is coming back to me...the window and mirror switches are one master assembly and I don't think you can easily swap to test. In fact they are part of the electronic control bus I think so it is not like they send a simple "open closed" signal for each window individually (I don't think) and the switch assembly is a costly bugger...like $300. Maybe you can find someone close by with a W210 who you can swap the assembly with to test it?

I was thinking of the older style where there were actually separate switches for drivers and passengers sides which were interchangeable but these are not.

TMAllison · #7 06-06-2008, 03:22 PM

Isnt there a harness connection through the door post and entering the door that causes problems sometimes?

Jeremy5848 · #8 06-06-2008, 03:39 PM

I've not yet had to remove the door skin on my '96 but if it isn't too difficult, one could go directly to the window motor and test it with an ohmmeter or by applying 12 Volts across its terminals. If the motor works then the problem is elsewhere.

Most of the power window problems I've repaired or read about have involved fuses, switches, broken inter-door wires, or mechanical damage of the regulator itself. Failure of the electric window motor seems to be relatively rare.

The inter-door wiring problem occurred in the early W124 series, notably the '87 300D-T. I believe that this problem was fixed by the time they started making W210 cars.

Do the '98-'99 W210 cars have a more sophisticated electronic window system than the earlier '96-'97 cars? I'd sure be happy to know that my '96 was simpler and easier to repair, if and when.

Jeremy

hobbitss · #9 06-06-2008, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc

Now it is coming back to me...the window and mirror switches are one master assembly and I don't think you can easily swap to test. In fact they are part of the electronic control bus I think so it is not like they send a simple "open closed" signal for each window individually (I don't think) and the switch assembly is a costly bugger...like $300. Maybe you can find someone close by with a W210 who you can swap the assembly with to test it?

I was thinking of the older style where there were actually separate switches for drivers and passengers sides which were interchangeable but these are not.

Yes... Expensive.... I am assuming that there is some sort of IC control on that assembly that controls the windows... The rear windows work fine but the drivers window just stopped working yesterday afternoon and I'm hoping the passenger side isn't going bad as well as it seemed to act a little different last night...

hobbitss · #10 06-20-2008, 01:50 AM

Latest update...
The Drivers window miraculously started working again about 36 hours after it stopped working and hasn't given me a problem since... Figured I would wait and watch it to see what would happen next... So the next day the front passenger window stops working... Eh, I don't use it much, wait and see what happens next... So here we are about 10 days later and drivers window works fine, both rear windows work fine, front passenger window still wont open and all of a sudden the sun roof wont open after working fine hours earlier on the way to work...

Now I figure there is a really good chance that the control module in the center console is my problem part for the windows but what could have caused the same issue with the sun roof??...

I've got a morning shift coming up so we'll see if it starts working again in the morning....

The ghosts of British Leyland electrical parts are coming back to haunt me...

nhdoc · #11 06-20-2008, 07:13 AM

As an experiment I would try to disconnect the battery on the car and let all of the window memories clear. Not sure how long it takes but I'd try it for at least 30 minutes. Be sure you have the radio's security code before doing this or you will need to get it before being able to listen to it again.

Sometimes the control module gets a gremlin and clearing the memory and re-syncing the windows and roof will clear it. Sometimes it does not work but it costs nothing but some time so it is the kind of repair I like to try.

Good luck and if you try it let us know if it works.

mbdoc · #12 06-20-2008, 08:33 AM

The 1998 & later cars have an interior network of computers. AT least 1 of those computers is most likely causing another 1 not to function.

Disconnecting the battery(on a daily basis) on that system isn't a good idea.

The best way to find that type of problem is thru voltage checks on the computers at the network connector.

hobbitss · #13 06-20-2008, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M.B.DOC

The 1998 & later cars have an interior network of computers. AT least 1 of those computers is most likely causing another 1 not to function.

Disconnecting the battery(on a daily basis) on that system isn't a good idea.

The best way to find that type of problem is thru voltage checks on the computers at the network connector.

I've spent time reading the manuals and playing with the remotes since I have more electrical issues I'm trying to understand...
Seems that the remote locking system only works thru the drivers door now... Passenger door Infrared and the Radio remote feature doesn't work with either remote but stand in front of the drivers door and everything works except the front passenger window and sun roof....

No radio code, probably the only thing the PO didn't have for me... I'll have to check with the Dealer...

On a good note I just filled up and got 32.8 MPG on mixed city and highway driving...

mbdoc · #14 06-20-2008, 11:21 AM

Every item inside the car is computer controlled off of the interior network.

Items include all 4 doors, both front seats, sunroof, central locking, wipers, alarm, and most switch functions.

MOST common problem is one of the REAR door control modules. Again voltage tests at the network connector will reveal the problem.

hobbitss · #15 06-20-2008, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M.B.DOC

Every item inside the car is computer controlled off of the interior network.

Items include all 4 doors, both front seats, sunroof, central locking, wipers, alarm, and most switch functions.

MOST common problem is one of the REAR door control modules. Again voltage tests at the network connector will reveal the problem.

Thanks Guys... I will research this further...