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  #1  
Old 06-06-2008, 08:57 PM
minimike
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 320
got a line on a 75 240d and

The car won't lite the glow plug indicator and also won't start. I'm wondering if anyone has a set of decent wire style glowplugs and a working relay for this year car. (Moderator, I know this is a parts request, but please don't move this yet.)
Also wondering what else might cause this car with 89K on the clock to not start. Engine cranks, and kind of burps at the manifold with air cleaner disconnected. Current owner was told car needs new engine. I'm thinking that the diagnosis in wrong.
Along the same line, body is very good but pass. fender needs replacement along with headlight door(complete).

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  #2  
Old 06-06-2008, 10:11 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
I think yer probly right about mis-diagnosed "dead engine"..... we see this all the time, gasoline techs condemning perfectly healthy 240D as dead or dying.

Probly have a couple of loop plugs you can have for cost of shipping, lemme check tomorrow. Have you pulled and visually inspected the ones you've got? Move the crummy ones with busted filaments further up the line to #1 or #2 cyl, the system glows from back to front. Also double check insulator washers & steel wire arrangement between plugs, its easy to screw up and ground out. Plus the pull start gorilla knob in dash might be suspect - common killer of 115 diesels is that knob. Finally there should be massive fuse strip on firewall inside plastic box for the entire system. And they also make diesel starting fluid, most folks substitute WD-40.

Swappin fenders on that car is easy bolt-on operation. Yer wise to save the car, old w115 4cyl diesels in high demand. I been lookin for earlier version 4-spd 220D/240D with sunroof these past few years and found none.
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  #3  
Old 06-09-2008, 07:15 AM
minimike
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 320
anyone in the NYC, NJ, CT area know of a 115 donor car? (I know this is a parts request, but this part of the board seems to get more action than the parts section).
I need front fenders and a headlight door.
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  #4  
Old 06-09-2008, 08:18 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by minimike1 View Post
anyone in the NYC, NJ, CT area know of a 115 donor car? (I know this is a parts request, but this part of the board seems to get more action than the parts section).
I need front fenders and a headlight door.
Call "Phil"
1-888-333-4642
philip@peachparts.com
9AM-6PM ET

He can get any sheet metal you need. You will probably find that any parts from donor cars would have rust since those areas are most prone to damage.
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Last edited by whunter; 10-23-2008 at 03:38 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #5  
Old 06-09-2008, 09:08 AM
minimike
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 320
for my immediate needs, I just need the pass. front fender area that surrounds the headlight door. If anyone has a donor that's rusted but can cut that area out I'd be greatful.
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2008, 09:18 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
Thats the first place to rust.

Good luck finding one!

Tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2008, 02:44 AM
Professional smart ass
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minimike1 View Post
Also wondering what else might cause this car with 89K on the clock to not start. .
Could be 189k, or 289k also. That 5 digit odo makes it kinda hard to tell.
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  #8  
Old 06-10-2008, 07:22 AM
minimike
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 320
It's not 289 as the interior condition is quite good, and I don't care if it's 189K as high milage is ususally not a factor in diesels. Still after a doner car local to me on LI, NY
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  #9  
Old 06-10-2008, 07:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minimike1 View Post
It's not 289 as the interior condition is quite good, and I don't care if it's 189K as high milage is ususally not a factor in diesels. Still after a doner car local to me on LI, NY
I think what the respondent was trying to say is that you seemed to assume in the OP that the car was a low miles car and that the engine failure could be misdiagnosed since the car had less than 100K on it and they were pointing out that with a 5 digit odo you really have no way of knowing how many miles it has. Many of them suffered from broken odometers too so even the 6 digit cars can be way off. You really need to ignore the odometers on these old cars and start with the basics to determine why they don't run. Unless you have a full service history with it, every car should be assumed "true miles unknown".

Also, 189K or even 89K is more than enough to wear out one of these early engines if it wasn't maintained. These called for oil changes every 3K miles and they also had the oil bath air cleaners which almost always were neglected. Miss a couple of oil changes and let the air cleaner go and the next thing you know the engine compression is weak, too weak to start.

Just look for compression, and fuel and check the glow plugs. The first thing I would do on an old car that wasn't running is do a compression check, pull plugs and test them at the same time too. If compression is low check the valve adjustment and retest. If it is still low then you probably have a big job on your hands (either a valve job or rings) but either way it is not a quick, cheap fix.

You seem to be looking for body parts before you have even determined if the engine is any good...I'd work on getting it running and driving before I would worry about replacing a rusted fender.
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Last edited by nhdoc; 06-10-2008 at 07:45 AM.
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2008, 10:10 PM
minimike
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 320
today's update and this should be followed up in my other post. I did not think that the title on this post now reflects what I'm after.
I check the fuses, one missing, replaced it, and now have glow plugs. With a 200amp boost the engine would not start, but it cranked fine. upon releasing the key, I get a huff from the intake. Snorkel to air cleaner is disconnected for now. I decide to pull the valve cover to check valve adj.
I realize while having the engine bumped to align each cam, that the front tower on the cam is cracked allowing the cam to rotate to the right enough that I can see it with the naked eye.

Sooooo, Now I''m in need of a cam tower.

Anyone know if the 115 240d tower is the same as the 123 240d cam tower?
Anyone have a part # for this item?
And btw, I know I put the cart before the horse by shopping body parts b4 getting it driving, but sometimes I multitask overload.
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  #11  
Old 06-10-2008, 10:28 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
I think I have a complete 115 240d head including cam and towers. Why don't you do a bit more diagnosticizing and make a list of needed parts?

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2008, 10:55 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minimike1 View Post
I realize while having the engine bumped to align each cam, that the front tower on the cam is cracked allowing the cam to rotate to the right enough that I can see it with the naked eye.

Sooooo, Now I''m in need of a cam tower.
That should be a warning sign! Skipped chain? Bent valves?

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