Just picked up 98 E300D, need help, key "stuck" in ignition. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Sir Sam · #1 06-07-2008, 12:46 AM

So I picked this thing up on monday, the truck dropped it off today. In addition to the obvious front end repairs I have a nice little surprise to go with it.

I can't for the life of me get the key out of the ignition. I think something is messed up with a brake interlock. With the key almost all the way out, where the dash shows "take key" you can shift it freely back and forth between park and neutral, but not into drive. Also, when the key is all the way to start it will not crank - as if the shifter interlock is not releasing.

Anyways, those are my current thoughts on that problem. I would very much like to get a service manual but the only copies I have found so far are pretty expensive, are there any PDF or other electronic copies out there anywhere for download?

Here is the link to the auction page:
http://klode.com/Kws/Napplications/display_pics.aspx?Stockid=880850&Exit=Close

Paid $2400, has all the typical stuff you would expect would need replacing on the front.

TIA

TMAllison · #2 06-07-2008, 12:58 AM

You've obvoulsy got a low or bad battery from the photos. Charge it overnight first and try again. Must be in park (could be a NSS issue) and brake must be depressed to pull key.

Also get the air cleaner back together before all htat dust gets into your MAF and ruins it.

If its been sitting a while its prob also going to have fuel/air leaks and be hard starting. In that event it will need new fuel lines or orings. See fryerpower.com for the later and the dealer for the former.

Sir Sam · #3 06-07-2008, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

You've obvoulsy got a low or bad battery from the photos. Charge it overnight first and try again. Must be in park (could be a NSS issue) and brake must be depressed to pull key.

Also get the air cleaner back together before all htat dust gets into your MAF and ruins it.

If its been sitting a while its prob also going to have fuel/air leaks and be hard starting. In that event it will need new fuel lines or orings. See fryerpower.com for the later and the dealer for the former.

Been charging for the better part of the day, but I will leave it on overnight anyways.

There is a McDs receipt from early march, so it was at least running then. So I know it was running 2 months ago.

The battery was disconnected so it wasn't totally drained, and it about a year old, so I don't think I am fighting a crap battery, but ya, a good overnight charge should help.

Is the NSS prone to failure from drink spills etc?

Is there a place to bleed air out at the fuel filter head?

DAR2KMR2 · #4 06-07-2008, 02:10 AM

I purchased a 1997 E300D some 8 months ago and had it shipped to me from Texas. When I got it off the truck I had the same problem .... key wouldn't come out. I played around with the key for some 15 minutes and eventually discovered that the chrome trim ring around the key slot rotated so I tightened it up by hand by rotating it to the left (?) and the key came right out. I haven't had a problem since.

David Roseman
Long Beach, Ca

KarTek · #5 06-07-2008, 06:32 AM

Wow, you got a great deal on it! You could spend 8 grand on parts and repairs and it would still be a good deal.

If you look at the key from the back (straight down the length of it), it should be straight up 12 o'clock before it'll come out. It it's stuck at about 1 o'clock, the brake interlock won't let it go for some reason. The interlock is mechanical so you can probably get under the dash and figure out where it's messed up or at least manually release it.

The brake pedal actually has to be released to move the key to the 12 o'clock position rather than depressed. Try pulling up on the pedal with your toe and see if that helps. This is probably the reason it won't crank as well. The ignition requires the key to be rotated full left and back after a failed start. Since you can't rotate it full left, it isn't allowing another attempt.

Sir Sam · #6 06-07-2008, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

Wow, you got a great deal on it! You could spend 8 grand on parts and repairs and it would still be a good deal.

If you look at the key from the back (straight down the length of it), it should be straight up 12 o'clock before it'll come out. It it's stuck at about 1 o'clock, the brake interlock won't let it go for some reason. The interlock is mechanical so you can probably get under the dash and figure out where it's messed up or at least manually release it.

The brake pedal actually has to be released to move the key to the 12 o'clock position rather than depressed. Try pulling up on the pedal with your toe and see if that helps. This is probably wht reason it won't crank as well. The ignition requires the key to be rotated full left and back after a failed start. Since you can't rotate it full left, it isn't allowing another attempt.

Is that an FN-P90 in your avatar?

It feels like it will almost goto the 12 o'clock position, but not quite. I poked around a little last night under the dash but couldn't see anything, I guess I will have to start digging in and remove stuff to get to that interlock.

Now that I know it won't start after a failed attempt that helps a little more, rather than it seeming like a brake interlock/NSS issue it just sounds like a brake interlock issue.

Already tried pulling up on the pedal with my foot, but I will try it some more, maybe with some jiggling.

Hatterasguy · #7 06-07-2008, 03:03 PM

Wow you stole that car! Thats a newer key so the key itself should be good.

These cars are picky on batteries, the PO put a battery that was to small out of a Toyota or something in my friends S320, and until he replaced it, the ignition and alarm would act funky.

If you havn't already check to make sure its putting out the proper voltage.

TMAllison · #8 06-07-2008, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

The brake pedal actually has to be released to move the key to the 12 o'clock position rather than depressed. Try pulling up on the pedal with your toe and see if that helps. This is probably wht reason it won't crank as well. The ignition requires the key to be rotated full left and back after a failed start. Since you can't rotate it full left, it isn't allowing another attempt.

Whoops....brain running in reverse yesterday. Sorry.

KarTek · #9 06-07-2008, 03:25 PM

Terry, you have now fallen completely off of the pedastal I had placed you on... And Sir Sam, that is a P-90 that little Henrietta is carrying...

And to answer your question about the filter, there is no air bleed valve/screw. You have to crank it in 30 sec intervals until it runs smoothly. This procedure is in the owners manual if you got that with the car.

benzman666 · #10 06-07-2008, 03:31 PM

i am buying salvaged '99 e300 myself, ine has damage to rear wheel well

Sir Sam · #11 06-07-2008, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Wow you stole that car! Thats a newer key so the key itself should be good.

These cars are picky on batteries, the PO put a battery that was to small out of a Toyota or something in my friends S320, and until he replaced it, the ignition and alarm would act funky.

If you havn't already check to make sure its putting out the proper voltage.

Yup will do, been sitting with the battery charger on it all night long and all day and it's still sucking down the juice at a fairly high rate, which either means decent electrical drain somewhere, or the battery is crap(which would stink because its a little over a year old). How many amps is the stock battery rated at? I have another nice new battery here for my truck that I could swap out for testing to know I have a good source.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

Terry, you have now fallen completely off of the pedastal I had placed you on... And Sir Sam, that is a P-90 that little Henrietta is carrying...

And to answer your question about the filter, there is no air bleed valve/screw. You have to crank it in 30 sec intervals until it runs smoothly. This procedure is in the owners manual if you got that with the car.

No owners manual of course, I don't get why anyone would remove it from the vehicle, but it happens. I know for my Jeeps the owners manual is online in a PDF, anything like that for this car? Or should I suck it up and buy one?

I got the key out- took the lower trim off, and messed around with the linkages, if I push the linkage down there by hand in the direction of less brake pedal I can get the key to release. I will have to figure out a permanent fix there later.

So now I can take the key out and put it back in and try to crank, after the glow plug light goes out I turn it to start.....nothing, no starter solenoid click or anything like you would expect even when the battery is low.

Let the battery charge more or switch it out is an obvious answer, but what I am also wondering about is if there is any security/theft protection that might be triggered by the battery being disconnected.

Also, and this is pretty far down the list, but my radio does not appear to come on, I saw a "radio code" written down on the paper insert on the drivers side fuse panel door. After a power loss does the code need to be re-entered somehow?

Man, I'm wishing I had an owners or service manual right now.

Matt L · #12 06-07-2008, 08:24 PM

For the service manual, nothing beats the source.

Call 1-800-FOR-MERC and order P-2700-210-05. I paid about $170 with tax and shipping.

TMAllison · #13 06-07-2008, 08:37 PM

I'd stick any battery in there for time being or call MB to come bring you one.

Assuming that doesnt work I'd fix the brake switch.

Does the steering wheel lock retract and dash light up? Any lights beneath the RR mirror blinking which you try to start?

CCU will tell you voltage: key to pos two, press and hold REST for 5 secs, use auto buttons to toggle to #24. Not as accurate as your multimeter.

Sir Sam · #14 06-07-2008, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt L

For the service manual, nothing beats the source.

Call 1-800-FOR-MERC and order P-2700-210-05. I paid about $170 with tax and shipping.

owch! thats as much as a new AC condensor!
*reaches for checkbook*

I got the damaged junk off yesterday evening:

So, so far I need a new AC condensor, radiator, cooling fan setup, mechanical fan/clutch, serpentine belt, hood, grill, and bumper cover.

Plus repair/replace the headlight buckets. I am hoping I will be able to buy some new buckets/ bucket components fairly cheap.

Also, for anyone else interested, here are some other diesel things I have going on:
Jeep liberty CRD:
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/libertyrepair.html

Last MB I had I purchased from the same place for $900:
http://www.klode.com/Kws/Napplications/display_pics.aspx?Stockid=618350&Exit=Close

And this is a brand new Jeep 2.5 CRD engine that I picked up off of craigslist which will be going into a Jeep pickup:

Anyways, little off topic, but I thought I would share it for the diesel heads out there.

Sir Sam · #15 06-07-2008, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

I'd stick any battery in there for time being or call MB to come bring you one.

Assuming that doesnt work I'd fix the brake switch.

Does the steering wheel lock retract and dash light up? Any lights beneath the RR mirror blinking which you try to start?

CCU will tell you voltage: key to pos two, press and hold REST for 5 secs, use auto buttons to toggle to #24. Not as accurate as your multimeter.

CCU = Climate control unit?

I'm not sure what the brake switch problem is, it seems like it is merely out of adjustment.

Steering wheel lock retract? Dash lights come on like I think they should. RR mirror?