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#1
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SLS questions
Where should I begin trouble shooting the SLS? Here is what I know; The pump, tank and accumulators are there. the only thing missing as far as I can tell is the arm from the sway bar to the adjuster by the differential.
Should I buy this arm and load it with fluid? I read here where someone put ATF in theres, is this OK ? The recommended stuff is a little too expensive to watch run all over the ground. I'm terrified of filling the crankcase with hydraulic fluid because of a leaky pump. Is there a rebuild kit for the pump? Should I pull it and rebuild it before I get started? 1984 300TD 231,000 new to me 6/08 |
#2
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Where should I begin trouble shooting the SLS? Here is what I know; The pump, tank and accumulators are there. the only thing missing as far as I can tell is the arm from the sway bar to the adjuster by the differential.
That link controls the ride height if I understand you correctly, there is no fluid in there. You should start by reading, there is an excellent amount of material already written in previous posts and it is better than any single response you are going to get. Should I buy this arm and load it with fluid? I read here where someone put ATF in theres, is this OK ? I have had ATF in my system for quite sometime now. I think it is fine for test runs and getting your system going. Some people leave it in, I would not, that system is way too expensive to fix when seals start going bad. The few dollars you are saving means nothing.!! The recommended stuff is a little too expensive to watch run all over the ground. I'm terrified of filling the crankcase with hydraulic fluid because of a leaky pump. GOOD CALL Is there a rebuild kit for the pump? Yes Should I pull it and rebuild it before I get started? NO |
#3
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Is it running dry? I hope not, this system circulates oil regardless of the position of the control valve. I'm not sure about a rebuild kit? I am running aeroshell something or other in mine.
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#4
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I would start by buying a new leveling valve arm, or you could nab one from a junkyard. Then I would fill and flush the system. Use either mineral oil or the MB/Febi stuff. Then see how the system works. The largest problem with the SLS on the wagons is a leaking SLS valve and bad accumulators. The rest of the system is pretty hardy but can have problems. There is a rebuild kit for the pump try a search for George Murphy on this site he has rebuild kits available. The rebuild kit for the SLS valve is no longer available, but I have o-ring kits available if your turns out to be leaking. You can tell if you pump is leaking if the fluid in the SLS reserviour is black. You end up with motor oil in the res. instead of hydraulic fluid.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#5
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Transmission fluid has some additives that may make its use in the SLS system unwise. Try the real Febi/Benz fluid, or ISO-46 hydraulic fluid if you're cheap.
Try these links all available right here on this very forum: http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2226 Replacing SLS hardline i've searched, and still can't diagnose my SLS Help needed with rotten SLS lines?
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1984 300TD |
#6
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Your suspension fluid could turn black w/o oil entering it ,the rubber in the system is continually degrading and leaving particles suspended in the fluid. Only from what I have read, the general failure of the pump is to send fluid into the case, it operates at high pressure, not high vacuum on the case side.
there are alternatives for fluid, nothing is as reassuring as the 'right stuff' this my favorite post on the issue: http://www.***************/forum/showthread.php?t=494&page=1&pp=20 use some cheap fluid as a flush / guinea pig run, watch oil level and leveling fluid closely and you will figure it out http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Index/Groups/32ShocksSprings.html |
#7
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Great links and advice. Thanks. Since the reservoir is empty and the arm is missing I am going to try to put either ATF or hydraulic fluid in and see where it runs out. It has not been working for at least five years so I'm betting I'll be buying more than the arm.
I've noticed many different vendors for parts, who's the best and/or the cheapest? Anybody in the Atlanta metro area? How about body parts? A teenager has been driving her for the last three years and she needs a left fender and probably a hood. |
#8
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Go with tractor hydraulic fluid or something similar for the short term, but NOT tranny fluid!!!!
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#9
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^^as long as it is temporoary is it really a problem? it isnt like brake fluid which will disolve the seals. It is mineral oi w/ friction modifiers and anti-foaming agents, no solvents--aren't there rubber seals in the highly sensitive transmission?
I agree atf should not be in there - only if there is great suspiscion there are leaks and it is expected to be wasted. |
#10
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I'll stop by the hardware and get some good old fashion basic hydraulic fluid because I bet it's going to find a hole real quick and end up on the kitty litter any way. Sound OK?
I'm not to concerned about ruining seals because the tank is bone dry and they're most likely shot. |
#11
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tractor supply 5 gallon jug iso 46 $19.00... 1 gallon is $8 ish
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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