Tie rod replacement ... advice? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phil · #16 06-13-2008, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cornblatt

See attached files...

I have a 126 model and that is for the 124 although it may be the same.
I noticed my front tires had bad wear on the out side edges so I checked the toe with a tape measure and found it was in by 3/4 of an inch so I reset the toe to "0". From your chart it looks like it should be in just a little. When I reset to "0" the car handled a LOT better than it had been.

vstech · #17 06-13-2008, 12:56 PM

these discussions always make me laugh and wonder why so few mechanics are aware of the secret of separation of tapered joint fittings.
tools needed, side cutters for the cotter pin if equipped,
a large crecent wrench or the correct wrench for the nut,
two large ish ball peen or sledge hammers I like to use a 3LB mini sledge, and a 2LB peen, YMMV...
anyway,
ya take out the cotter pin, loosen the nut a couple turns, but don't take it off.
set one hammer on one side of the part that the tapered pin passes through, and HIT the opposite side as hard as you can with the other hammer.
POP out comes the joint, and ZERO damage to the boot.

babymog · #18 06-13-2008, 01:52 PM

I beat on a 6month-old tie-rod end the way you describe, finally mushroomed it to no repair. I've used this method many times but sometimes it doesn't work.

vstech · #19 06-13-2008, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

I beat on a 6month-old tie-rod end the way you describe, finally mushroomed it to no repair. I've used this method many times but sometimes it doesn't work.

NO NO NO!!!
you don't hit the tapered pin. you hit the boss that the pin goes through.
the pin is too soft to take any hits, and hitting it will indeed alter it's size making it nigh impossible to remove by any means other than a torch!

BodhiBenz1987 · #20 06-13-2008, 05:32 PM

Thanks guys ... I bought a pickle fork today and have an asundry of hammers, mallets, etc. so now I just have to wait on the tie rods getting here.

The FSM specifies 35Nm of torque for the nut fastening the rod to the steering arms ... should I use a torque wrench for that or is "feel" acceptable?

hangit · #21 06-13-2008, 06:41 PM

If you have an Autozone or some of the other parts stores near you, they have free tool rental. Save your cash for parts.

John

hangit · #22 06-13-2008, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

set one hammer on one side of the part that the tapered pin passes through, and HIT the opposite side as hard as you can with the other hammer.
POP out comes the joint, and ZERO damage to the boot.

John;

Could you describe in a little more detail. I've heard of hitting the knuckle end where the tapered fitting fits to get it to pop out. Are you saying to hit the opposite side of the hammer resting on the part?

John

DeliveryValve · #23 06-13-2008, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hangit

John;

Could you describe in a little more detail. I've heard of hitting the knuckle end where the tapered fitting fits to get it to pop out. Are you saying to hit the opposite side of the hammer resting on the part?

John

Yes that is what he is saying.

vstech · #24 06-13-2008, 11:25 PM

sorry about the image size...
and the crappy tools in the pic, and the fact that it's a chebby not a MB in the pic... I don't always have a MB up in the air...

nhdoc · #25 06-14-2008, 07:05 AM

Yes, Hitting the joint which the pin passes through works fine. I might suggest rather than using two hammers though you can use just one and hit it along the "strong axis" of the connector, like I show in my modified version of your photo. I find this method works well.

You're really using the hammer to "jar" the pin from the taper and this way you aren't pounding on/twisting the other joint. Either way will work though. Just loosen the nut a couple of turn, whack it a couple of times and it comes right out. If that doesn't work you can always resort to the pickle fork method.

Also, as others have said, once you are done installing the tie rod, have the car aligned asap. I usually set my new ones to the same length as the old one was (by eye, laying them side by side), then install the new one and drive to the alignment shop to have it adjusted on the rack.

rs899 · #26 06-14-2008, 07:07 AM

The two-hammer method certainly CAN and does work, but if you are replacing the tie rods and have a pickle fork, don't waste your energy on it. It takes a lot of force and room to really swing the hammer. Kind of a neat method ( as in "Wow- I squeezed that hunk of forged metal?") and worth a shot if you want to save the joint and boot, just harder than it needs to be in this case, IMO.

Rick

hangit · #27 06-14-2008, 04:07 PM

Thanks for the great pics!

John

BodhiBenz1987 · #28 06-19-2008, 06:58 PM

The wait is over, my tie rods came in yesterday ... didn't have time to do much today but put the car up on ramps to get a better look at what I'm dealing with. Maybe this is a stupid question, but is there any reason I can't remove and install the joint on ramps, i.e., with the car's weight on the wheels? I'm small and flexible, and unless something's really stuck, I should have enough room/leverage. Any reason it has to be done with weight off the suspension?

I look forward to replacing these ... they are pretty gross. They were supposedly replaced five years ago, according to my records, during a full front susp rebuild. But they look far worse than anything else under there.

Shorebilly · #29 06-19-2008, 07:07 PM

Pickle fork works just fine.......when installing the new tie rods......the "factory" distance between ball joint centers is.....
W123: 345mm +-2mm
W124: 333mm +-2mm
W126: 367mm +-2mm
W201: 337mm +-2mm
SB

Charles_B · #30 06-19-2008, 09:38 PM

I did mine on ramps, replaced tie rods, idler arm repair kit, center rod and steering damper. I used a seperator I bought at Napa for less than $20. Car doesn't have steering wheel shakes like it did, although the steering wheel doesn't level driving straight. I still need the upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints replaced as per the Mercedes indie I had look at it. Couldn't afford the $1300 he wanted to do the whole front end job and I couldn't supply the parts. I was thinking of using a pickle fork, but glad I went with seperator, getting too old to keep whacking on things, I usually end up breaking something I wasn't intending to repair. The seperator was nice a little turn of wrench and with a LOUD bang the tie rod ends seperated. Spent more time adjusting the new to old lengths than it did taking them out or installing the new parts.
I did have an indie mechanic replace my serpentine belt and install upgraded vacuum pump, ran $80, money well spent tokk him all of two hours where it would have taken me all day. Now all I have to do is find a lift I can use and do my flex plates, motor mounts, tranny mount and other rubber bits.