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#16
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#17
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There's not much risk of me shopping for a suburban.
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#18
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tell me about it... hardly anybody wants to buy a vehicle that takes 164.00 to fill up...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#19
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Ouch, I hate driving trucks anyway. I have an old POS jeep, I keep wishing it will die so I have an excuse to junk it.
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#20
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The whole electric fan issue can go on and on. Some like it, some simply don't like it. OEM's have been using them for years on front wheel drive cars with good success. There are even brand new trucks that are using them also. Once a guy was telling me that they use them on rear wheel drive vehicles because of "packaging" Explain why a truck would not have enough room for a big clunky mechanical fan?!
The fan hardly kicks on at all so I think the benefits outweigh the negatives. Sure a fuse could blow and the fan not kick on. I'm a real big gauge watcher and would notice it right away that the temp was on the rise and the fan not being on. Like the gentleman said in a previous posting on here... how hard would it be to return it back to stock?! Too dang easy. That's why you hang on to all the factory parts and when it's time to sell... put em all back on I'll go take some pics of the setup and post it.
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1977 Mercedes 240D... 4 speed manual... soon to be host to a lot of mods.. 1984 Toyota 4x4.. Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold, TRD cam, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5 wires, MSD Blaster coil, NWOR Tri-Y header, cat-back exhaust, NHK 3" lift springs, Black Magic electric fan, LC Engineering crank pulley,traction bars, LockRight locker, oil cooler, manual water temp gauge, oil temp gauge, vacuum gauge, and 394,000 miles on the clock with one motor change. |
#21
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Not sure what wiring damage you are referring to, but no such thing exists on my car. The thing I did was added a painless wiring circuit boss. It totally isolates any added circuits you add to the electrical system. I dont like messing with factory wiring unless it's totally necessary.
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1977 Mercedes 240D... 4 speed manual... soon to be host to a lot of mods.. 1984 Toyota 4x4.. Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold, TRD cam, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5 wires, MSD Blaster coil, NWOR Tri-Y header, cat-back exhaust, NHK 3" lift springs, Black Magic electric fan, LC Engineering crank pulley,traction bars, LockRight locker, oil cooler, manual water temp gauge, oil temp gauge, vacuum gauge, and 394,000 miles on the clock with one motor change. |
#22
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Here's a quick link to the pics of my 280 M110 fan conversion. The only wiring I had to connect to my existing harness was the trigger wire for the voltage relay. Power is supplied from the battery.
Fan Clutch question |
#23
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#24
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The fuse size makes no difference at all. A fuse will blow at exactly the same amperage no matter if its a tiny Minifuse or a huge Maxifuse.
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The other problem is you are only drawing air through a small round area of the radiator, leaving hot coolant to flow around it. Thats why the engine fan is set back with a shroud around it. |
#25
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I had a 190D that had a mechanical fan with an electromagnetic clutch. The clutch only engaged the fan once that I can remember... It was 95*F outside, A/C on, immediately pulled off the interstate to fuel up, when leaving the gas station it kicked in. Other than that the fan was always freewheeling. You could stop it with a roll of paper towels. Never had any temperature problems at all.
My CDI has no mechanical fan. Purely electric. It only runs around town with the A/C on. It might run around town when its hot with the A/C off, but when its hot I have the A/C on! The fan is pretty powerful too... pulls a lot of air and is LOUD when its on high (seems to have a high/low setting). On a 240D an electric fan is probably just fine. Especially considering how little horsepower the engine generates you're not going to have to dissipate much heat. With a higher HP turbo diesel the backup/safeties become important. My $.02
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John Robbins '05 E320 CDI - 240k '87 300TD - 318k |
#26
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ok here are a few pics... too bad i wasn't able to take them during the install but these will have to do.
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1977 Mercedes 240D... 4 speed manual... soon to be host to a lot of mods.. 1984 Toyota 4x4.. Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold, TRD cam, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5 wires, MSD Blaster coil, NWOR Tri-Y header, cat-back exhaust, NHK 3" lift springs, Black Magic electric fan, LC Engineering crank pulley,traction bars, LockRight locker, oil cooler, manual water temp gauge, oil temp gauge, vacuum gauge, and 394,000 miles on the clock with one motor change. |
#27
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that's the answer |
#28
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still very interested in the outcome, do you think your water pump will last longer?
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#29
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In theory it should. There is no longer a small weight(the fan and spacer) on the end it it. The only thing on the end of it now is the pulley.
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1977 Mercedes 240D... 4 speed manual... soon to be host to a lot of mods.. 1984 Toyota 4x4.. Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, Offenhauser Dual Port intake manifold, TRD cam, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5 wires, MSD Blaster coil, NWOR Tri-Y header, cat-back exhaust, NHK 3" lift springs, Black Magic electric fan, LC Engineering crank pulley,traction bars, LockRight locker, oil cooler, manual water temp gauge, oil temp gauge, vacuum gauge, and 394,000 miles on the clock with one motor change. |
#30
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Electric fans are MORE efficent than your clutch fan, that is why most new cars come with them. It also eliminates one fan belt on some cars, so it reduces adjustment problems and wear and replacement issues. With many new cars the radiator is not directely in front of the radiator, or because of packaging issues the engine is too close to fit a mechanical fan. As far as air flow is concerned there are electric fans that push way more air than any clutch fan can.
Remember that at idle or while in traffic your RPM's are low and you have no forced airflow over the radiator. In contrast an electric fan can run at full power and flow at any time, including when the engine is idling. Fans with thermostats also run after the car is off, reducing heat soak under the hood.
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Karl B 95 E300 D 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 2001 GMC Yukon XL 1997 Contour SVT Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car |
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