Stainless Steel Airbox for direct air intake kit - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ConnClark · #16 06-14-2008, 10:22 PM

If it had a decent paper filter of sufficient size that was common I would buy one to replace my 85 Cali air box. I may just have to make my own

Bio300TDTdriver · #17 06-14-2008, 10:34 PM

Nice welding and fabrication. Is that an Injen/Amsoil filter?

#18 06-15-2008, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConnClark

If it had a decent paper filter of sufficient size that was common I would buy one to replace my 85 Cali air box. I may just have to make my own

That Kali box is a great upgrade/alternative to the stock UFO air filter setup.

TheDon · #19 06-15-2008, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselkid

The purpose of that is to connect right to the air collector to make this a true "cold air intake".

We have been telling you the factory intake is already a cold air intake!

dieselkid · #20 06-16-2008, 07:54 PM

Yeh,
but the original air box is a ridiculous design. First the air comes into the airbox than goes through the metal grating than through a 180 degree bend into the turbo!!! Since when has a 180 degree airflow direction change been a good thing? With the direct air intake kit that I have on my car, the car performs better. End of story...
-jon
p.s. I only made this stainless airbox to prove that the cold vs. hot air doesn't make any difference.

#21 06-16-2008, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

We have been telling you the factory intake is already a cold air intake!

In addition, the capacity of the stock air intake is more than adequate for the amount of fuel that the engine delivers. There is no benefit to redesigning the intake from a performance or efficiency point of view. It probably won't do any harm if the filter element is adequate, just keep the original parts.

#22 06-16-2008, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselkid

p.s. I only made this stainless airbox to prove that the cold vs. hot air doesn't make any difference.

So you are comparing a cold air intake to a cold air intake?

rcounts · #23 06-17-2008, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselkid

Yeh, but the original air box is a ridiculous design. First the air comes into the airbox than goes through the metal grating than through a 180 degree bend into the turbo!!! Since when has a 180 degree airflow direction change been a good thing? With the direct air intake kit that I have on my car, the car performs better. End of story...
-jon

Actually on a turbo it is worse than that. In addition to having to go through the perforated metal, the air actually has to make TWO 180 degree direction changes. First one is from the front snorkle, through the perfed metal, down through the hole in the bottom of the air cleaner, then back towards the front of the car. From there it makes a second 180 degree u-turn through the u-shaped plastic piece that goes from the bottom of the air cleaner into the turbo. I don't see how anyone could doubt that a single smooth curve like this intake would improve airflow - at the very least for for situations requiring quick throttle response - and possibly other times too due to the smoother, more laminar flow into the turbo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselkid

p.s. I only made this stainless airbox to prove that the cold vs. hot air doesn't make any difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

So you are comparing a cold air intake to a cold air intake?

No he is comparing his new filter enclosure which hooks up to the original snorkle hose (making it a true cold air intake) to the previous version - which had just an open cone filter tucked into the front corner of the engine bay right behind the passenger side headlight (that could draw at least some warmer underhood air). What he's saying is that there is no appreciable difference between the two - at least not compared to the amount of difference he noticed when comparing his original open element cone filter intake setup to the stock filter setup.

He's also saying that he only built the enclosure for the cone filter in response to you (and others) insistance that his open element cone filter - which isn't a true cold air intake - couldn't be better than the stock cold air intake setup.

How soon we forget...

#24 06-17-2008, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcounts

How soon we forget...

1000 posts later....

Cervan · #25 06-17-2008, 04:49 AM

mmm... i think it looks cool (damn thats some good tig welding!) I like the enclosed design, adds some glam to the engine bay.

dieselkid · #26 06-17-2008, 06:39 AM

Also,
I wasn't really thinking of location. I live in central pa. If I lived in western africa where I grew up where it is 130 f. in the "country" than maybe an airbox would matter. It would suck the cold 130 degree air from the atmostphere verses the 140 degree engine air.
Thanks again everyone.

-jon

LUVMBDiesels · #27 06-17-2008, 07:39 AM

Dumb questions alert...

Wouldn't the stainless box tranfser underhood heat to the incoming air? It is insulated in any way? For that matter the stock 616/617 setup must get nice and hot regardless of having the air come in from outside.

The setup on the 603 is much better as it is a straight through design and is insulated (thick plastic Vs thin metal). Has anybody tried to adapt a setup from a 300SDL to a 300SD yet?
I would be interested in seeing if the SDL airbox makes a difference on an older engine PLUS there are no bracket issues

ConnClark · #28 06-17-2008, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

That Kali box is a great upgrade/alternative to the stock UFO air filter setup.

At least until you have to replace the filter

ConnClark · #29 06-17-2008, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

In addition, the capacity of the stock air intake is more than adequate for the amount of fuel that the engine delivers. There is no benefit to redesigning the intake from a performance or efficiency point of view. It probably won't do any harm if the filter element is adequate, just keep the original parts.

Actually a reduction in of the pressure drop across the air filter does help. It lowers pumping losses. It increases the excess air which increases the specific heat ratio of the combustion gases and reduces soot. Most importantly it drops the off boost manifold vacuum which keeps the ALDA from holding back the rack advancement as much on the IP.

When I replaced my turbo I didn't have the actuator hooked up to hold the waste gate closed for a couple weeks because I needed to fabricate a linkage. As a joke I used a couple rubber bands to hold it closed. To my surprise the rubber bands helped quite a bit. Even though the rubber bands couldn't hold the wastegate closed enough to budge the boost gauge needle off the zero psi mark, they did prevent a vacuum from being drawn in the intake manifold. The power difference was quite apparent and I could always tell when the rubber bands broke without looking at the boost gauge.

lowriderdog37 · #30 06-17-2008, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

For that matter the stock 616/617 setup must get nice and hot regardless of having the air come in from outside.

I have actually studying that lately. I wasn't going to post about it until I had more definitive results, but since we are talking about it, I'll give you what I know so far. I have been doing all of this at 90-95* ambient temp, medium traffic on surface streets (red light to red light). I don't live in a city big enough to have to deal with gridlock, however I have been in it, and seen my car get SUCKED of power when it's hot and I am in the middle of traf****.

Engine bay: about 5-8* warmer than ambient. After sitting at a few consecutive red lights, temp was up to 110-115*. Temp was back to 5-8* above ambient after about 25 seconds.

Inside the u-turn: I start the car (when cold), and keep moving for about 15 mi before getting to traffic, doing this, the temp stays right at ambient. After a few red lights, temp soared to 125-130*. The temp was still raising, but I was out of traffic by this time, took a 12 mi drive on the freeway, and the temp only dropped to 109*. I have only been able to test inside the u-turn once, but I am still testing. I'll post more info when I get it.

I am hypothesizing that the temp will raise much higher in the stock filter setup before leveling out. I didn't think originally that the tin airbox would be able to keep the cold intake worth keeping.

I started working on this not to prove anybody wrong or to get better performance, but I wanted to get the best possible replacement for the stock box. My stock box vibrates and rattles on the side of the compartment, which pierced a hole in it. The u-turn also doesn't fit properly, I am sure it allows unfiltered air into the turbo.