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  #1  
Old 06-17-2008, 06:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8
606 injector pump needs recalibration ... Anyone? - pulled pressure seal valve out

Without being aware of how sensitive this area is and being too maticulous, I just performed maintenance on my 6 delivery valves for my 1999 e300 where I replaced the delivery valve oring and replaced it with viton as well as replacing the copper crush washer with a new ones.

Here are some links that reference tackling this task:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM606DeliveryValveSeals

In being meticulous I ended up pulling out all 6 of the delivery valves and both collars in the injector under the pressure valve holder. What I didn't know was how delicate the placement and positioning of these collars are. I removed all the collars to remove any possible particles/dirt that may have fallen due to the removal of the pressure valve. When I replaced the collars, the pressure valves and assembly, then tried to start the car the car barely ran and was puffing out the blackest smoke out of the exhaust.

After consulting with a mercedes technician he indicated that the dark black smoke indicates that the car is running extremely rich and that the collars should not have been removed, most importantly the last collar. With that said he said I had 2 options, to try to eye the collars back into position or to send the pump off to an injection pump specialist. The specialist is:

Gus Pfister
Pacific Fuel Injection Service
153 Utah Ave,
South San Francisco, CA 94080
(650) 588-8880

When I called Gus he was very helpful, he said I can try to eye the collars into place but it will not be exact and most likely the car will have an incorrect mixer calibrated. The other option was to pull the injection pump off completely, then to send him the injector where he can calibrate it and measure the flow. He quoted me a price of $950 to do this... I asked him is this a complete rebuild and he said it was, it included all the new gaskets, seals, and flow testing.

The car only has 80,000 miles on it. I'm curious, does anyone know of a shop that can just place the collars in correctly, place it on the flow meter to calibrate it correctly, and send me back the pump? Maybe I should have the whole thing rebuilt? Curious if anyone has any insight into this and can offer some advice.

Lastly Gus mentioned that when I pull the injection pump off I should find top dead center (TDC) and then rotate the engine 14 degress past TDC. From there he indicated I can remove the pump.

For putting the pump back he said I need to use a special locking tool for the pump, keep the engine at 14 degrees TDC, use the locking tool and install the pump.

Question, how do I know that I am at TDC without pulling the valve cover off? I pulled the head off the car, lined every thing at TDC, but I was able to look at the cam lobes to see that I wasn't 180 degress off and that I was indeed at TDC. Is there another reference I can use?

Any tips or pointers would be appreciated. Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 06-17-2008, 06:45 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,956
Yeah, in hindsight you should not remove anything but the DV top which unscrews when you do this job. You can use a pick to pull out the copper crush washers without disturbing the DV body in the IP. Now that you have disturbed it all I don't think you have any choice but to remove the pump and have it recalibrated. Maybe you should ask Gus if there is a way to get it done without the complete rebuild for less money?

As far as the locking tool goes, I have heard you can borrow it from the shop that rebuilds the pump in most cases, then return it when you are done. You might inquire with Gus about that too.

And finally you can ensure you are at TDC by unscrewing the #1 GP and making sure that you are on the compression stroke as you turn the crankshaft to TDC. You'll either feel air coming out or not when you turn the crank...if you don't feel it then you will know you are on an exhaust stroke and the next time around will be compression.
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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2008, 08:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Reno/Sparks, NV
Posts: 3,063
When I did this job for the first time on my ex 87 300D I also removed all the parts from each IP element but I didn't have any issues afterward. As I recall some of the parts have grooves and can only be installed a certain way unless you force them which is obviously bad. I don't know if the OM606 pump is the same way. When I did the seals on my OM606 pump I only removed what was necessary. Sorry I can't help more.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2008, 12:12 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Walnut Creek, CA & 1,150 miles S of Key West
Posts: 4,874
To my knowledge you only need your DV's disassembled and the pump re-calibrated unless the inside of the pump body was distorted when the collars were torqued down in the wrong position.

Gus is considered the best and it would be hard for me personally to ignore his advice, more so if he had your pump in hand; that said, a Bosch service center ought to be able to do this also.

The cost you noted I believe is similar to what others have paid for a rebuilt pump through Gus?

It is my personal belief that POD got lucky when he popped all those parts out; I can think of many others who only distrubed the orientation of the valve element or the collar that ended up in the same position you are in.
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N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #5  
Old 06-18-2008, 01:30 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
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When you were inside of the IP and pulled out the parts did you pull out something that resembled a sleeve with teeth on them?
And, when you removed the parts did you keep all of the parts that came out of one hole together as a set?
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  #6  
Old 06-18-2008, 08:54 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Posts: 307
I would use a telescoping magnet.

Obtain a telescoping magnet used to pick up small parts that keeps you from having to crawl underneath the car to pick up a washer or other small bolt. Insert the magnet into the pump on top of the barrel and spin the magnet in a circular motion while pressing down slightly until the barrel fully seats. Cost, about three dollars for the special tool.

BenzDiesel
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2008, 12:09 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 896
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiztecy View Post
Without being aware of how sensitive this area is and being too maticulous, I just performed maintenance on my 6 delivery valves for my 1999 e300 where I replaced the delivery valve oring and replaced it with viton as well as replacing the copper crush washer with a new ones.

Here are some links that reference tackling this task:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM606DeliveryValveSeals

In being meticulous I ended up pulling out all 6 of the delivery valves and both collars in the injector under the pressure valve holder. What I didn't know was how delicate the placement and positioning of these collars are. I removed all the collars to remove any possible particles/dirt that may have fallen due to the removal of the pressure valve. When I replaced the collars, the pressure valves and assembly, then tried to start the car the car barely ran and was puffing out the blackest smoke out of the exhaust.

After consulting with a mercedes technician he indicated that the dark black smoke indicates that the car is running extremely rich and that the collars should not have been removed, most importantly the last collar. With that said he said I had 2 options, to try to eye the collars back into position or to send the pump off to an injection pump specialist. The specialist is:

Gus Pfister
Pacific Fuel Injection Service
153 Utah Ave,
South San Francisco, CA 94080
(650) 588-8880

When I called Gus he was very helpful, he said I can try to eye the collars into place but it will not be exact and most likely the car will have an incorrect mixer calibrated. The other option was to pull the injection pump off completely, then to send him the injector where he can calibrate it and measure the flow. He quoted me a price of $950 to do this... I asked him is this a complete rebuild and he said it was, it included all the new gaskets, seals, and flow testing.

The car only has 80,000 miles on it. I'm curious, does anyone know of a shop that can just place the collars in correctly, place it on the flow meter to calibrate it correctly, and send me back the pump? Maybe I should have the whole thing rebuilt? Curious if anyone has any insight into this and can offer some advice.

Lastly Gus mentioned that when I pull the injection pump off I should find top dead center (TDC) and then rotate the engine 14 degress past TDC. From there he indicated I can remove the pump.

For putting the pump back he said I need to use a special locking tool for the pump, keep the engine at 14 degrees TDC, use the locking tool and install the pump.

Question, how do I know that I am at TDC without pulling the valve cover off? I pulled the head off the car, lined every thing at TDC, but I was able to look at the cam lobes to see that I wasn't 180 degress off and that I was indeed at TDC. Is there another reference I can use?

Any tips or pointers would be appreciated. Thanks!
When I did mine, I did each valve one at a time. I removed collar 7g, but made sure that it, along with the rest of the parts, went back into the same valve they came out of, and made sure collar 7g was oriented in the same way. You mention pulling "both collars" out, and if you went further down into the valve area, and removed parts below 7g, I do not know what the effect would be. If you did not go further down below 7g, and if you replaced all the parts into the same valve they came out of, you may want to try doing the job a second time with new parts, as you have nothing to lose. The only thing I would recommend is this, after replacing the "o" rings and copper crush washer when you start to screw the valve body back in,use your hand to screw it in, and rock it back and forth as mentioned in the DIY information. This allows the valve parts to orient themselves correctly into the valve body, and be sure to torque them down correctly in the final stage. Good Luck!!

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