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  #1  
Old 06-18-2008, 10:29 PM
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Just Purchased 85 300sd Td Help

hello all,

finally tried a benz to see how they compare to the vw around here.

this one has 343000km/213130miles. paid 2500CND

body is fairly clean runs smooth, quiet so i think the engine is fine; no compression test as these benz diesel are sold real fast and for quite a bit even here (Montreal).

INSIDE IS VERY CLEAN THE EXHAUST HAS MANDREL BENDS THAT LOOK LIKE 2.5", DUAL TIP EXHAUST, HEATED SEATS, SUNROOF, ONE RUSTED STOP ON DOOR BETWEEN RUBBER AND BODY.

HERE ARE SOME SHOT OF THE ENGINE AND THE LEAKS.


THIS MUCH OIL AND DIESEL LOST IN 3 HOURS AND THE OIL CHANGE WAS DOEN 3K AGO AS I SAW THE STICKER.



I GUESS THIS OIL BUILD UP IS FROM THE VALVE COVER PRESSURE FITTING.



BEHIND THE INJECTION PUMP



ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THAT ROUND PART IS A TRANSPARENT FUEL FILTER BUT I CAN SEE UNCOVERED DIESEL WHEN I LOOK INTO THE ROUND "THINKY" OR CYLENDER STYLE PART.



THIS IS THE SIDE VIEW OF THE CYLENDER THINGY THAT IS THE FEEDLINE TO THE IP AND I THINK IS WHERE THE DIESEL LEAK IS COMING FROM



THIS IS MY PERSONAL OPINION OF WHAT THE LEAKS ARE SINCE THEY ARE RIGHT BELOW THE DIESEL LEAK.



ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED.

EVAN

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  #2  
Old 06-18-2008, 10:48 PM
LUVMBDiesels's Avatar
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Some tips...


1) replace the three piece hose setup from the air cleaner to the valve cover with an improved 1 piece hose.

2) That cylinder thingie is the primer pump. It should be replaced with a new improved black one.

3) The thing near the primer pump is the PRIMARY fuel filter. Replace it ASAP. It should be clear so you can see the condition of the filter.
There is a secondary fuel filter near the power steering pump hat looks like a small oilfilter replace that as well.
For the oil leaks, you are actually not doing so badly there. I would clean the engine off and then see where the leaks are coming from. There is a tube that runs from under the aircleaner to the oil pan. Make sure it is connected to the nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner as that is a common problem.

Learn how to use the search function as it will help you find out all about your car.

Joion the MBCA (Mercedes Benz CLub of AMerica)

HAVE FUN!!!

welcome to the family
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  #3  
Old 06-19-2008, 09:15 AM
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Whiew! that thing sure is dirty! and you can see where salt has been left on the motor. be sure and TOTALLY check the body over for rust. I am betting you will find much more than a rust spot on the door.
it looks like once you get the diesel leaks stopped, the oil leaks will disappear.
and have mercy on that car! get it's motor / engine compartment degreased and sprayed out.
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2008, 09:27 AM
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Congratulations evangelos. I agree with getting that engine and undercarriage cleaned up. That way you can tell where the leaks are coming from easier.

With how much oil and diesel you have leaking there and the length of time it appears to have been an issue, I wouldn't be surprised if you need new motor mounts and engine shock mounts/bushings.

You've got the OM617 motor. Do a search on valve adjustments and cleaning the banjo bolt for the ALDA. I imagine you would likely benefit from a diesel purge too.

The upgraded primer pump referred to by LUVMBDiesels is made by Bosch.

Good luck and welcome to the beginning of your obsession.
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2008, 09:46 AM
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The good thing is, all that oil leakage has helped keep a lot of the parts rust free!

I echo what everyone else has said.

Get that 1 piece breather hose for the air cleaner, check your air filter mounts, the rubber doohickeys may be broken too. Replace your lower pan gasket, and swap the primer and the primary fuel filter. Might as well replace the bolt on secondary filter too.

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  #6  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:29 AM
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are the parts that need replacing expensive?

i also want to mention that the car "seemed" slow, it felt better when using the lower gears. are these engines slow compared to the 240D as i also test drove one with 100 000km and that was manual and was a dead horse.

on this car the air feed on the turbo was disconnected but there was no slack on the turbo.

can the engine be dead and sound real quiet smooth?

technically i have not paid a cent yet so i can always turn the deal down. but i would like to try these merc's since i have had vw diesel for over a decade but that does not mean i am ready to purchase a lemon.
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  #7  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:32 AM
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The breather hose is around 10 bucks.

Primary inline fuel filter is around 2 bucks and the secondary 'bolt on' (looks like a spin on but its not) is around 8 or 9 bucks.

Lower pan gasket is a few bucks, air filter rubber isolators are a couple bucks.

New primer was like 30 or 40.
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  #8  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:35 AM
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IMO, if you haven't "really" paid for it, you could probably find a better one for $2500 ... unless the body and interior are in REALLY good condition.
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  #9  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:40 AM
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here are some underbody shots,







it looks pretty good to me as one of my neighbours had the same car and he told me about how the water drained was a bad design and caused tons of damage. am i getting the same damage?

is the original exhaust mandrel piping because this one has mandrel bends.

btw, the car was painted at least 7 years ago (the car has been in the family since it was purchased) but no boubling is present. they also have about $5K in dealer repairs so that must mean something.

evan
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  #10  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:43 AM
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chad, i really have not put down a cent but its very hard to find them here but that does not mean i should accept a piece of crap either.
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  #11  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:46 AM
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It's still tough to tell, but undercoating on these cars can hide MOST of the rust. What you see is always the "tip of the iceberg". Are you good with body work? If you don't feel comfortable chasing rust repair yourself, you could be in for a lot of repair costs.
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1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2008, 11:01 AM
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chad,

here is the real point; i want to try a merc because of using vw's for a long time and very few problem. these merc's have a great reputation and i dont want to pay a lot to wet my feet. on the other hand there is a 190D 180000km never seen salt in the low 90's for $8000 and he is not bending on his price. would that be a better value?

evan
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evangelos View Post
chad,

here is the real point; i want to try a merc because of using vw's for a long time and very few problem. these merc's have a great reputation and i dont want to pay a lot to wet my feet. on the other hand there is a 190D 180000km never seen salt in the low 90's for $8000 and he is not bending on his price. would that be a better value?

evan
Cut that price in half and it is still too much!!!
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2008, 11:16 AM
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thats what i mean these cars are in such high demand its insane.


since replacing the parts are cheap, engine runs smooth, tranny shifts fine; i think i will take the chance after doing a simple test that chris from frybrid suggested. stuff a rag on the valve cover gasket and start counting the seconds till the rpm's drop. anything under 5 and engine is getting too much blowby, anything above 10-13 seconds and the engine is fine.

all this for the experience of experincing a benz...... oyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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  #15  
Old 06-19-2008, 11:17 AM
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I think if you consider this car an entry point to MB diesels and don't expect to own it for more than a few years, you could take care of the leaks, etc. and run it into the ground until the rust takes over. Once you've owned an MB you get a crash course and will know what to look for and avoid on future purchases. I would still be concerned with spending $2500 for a car to get your feet wet since you KNOW there is money and time that NEED to be spent. I'm not familiar with the Canadian market on MBs, but around here, the photos you've shown would be for a car worth maybe $1200 on the high side unless the interior is PERFECT. The rust would be a deal breaker for many experienced MB guys.

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1991 - 300TE
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1985 300CD - Gladys
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