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#1
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Plastic Radiator Tank Availability (NOT)
Some time ago I read a post on replacing the plastic top radiator tank on my 82 300SD with a new one. The overflow nipple that goes to the coolant bottle just broke off so now I need one. I serched the archives and found a message from the original poster saying he had found the number of the company that he had gotten his from. I Called and was disappointed to find that they will sell to radiator shops only. The outfit is called "Northern Factory" in Willmar MN. 1-800-328-8900.
I suppose I could fake it as I do have a resale lic. But they kind of ticked me off. I post this in the intrest of informing others before they call to be ready with the BS and to find out if anyone knows of a nother source.
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82 300SD AKA The Dieter Beater 85 GMC Jimmy AKA #$%((@ Both on WVO Last edited by Meplat; 06-20-2008 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Add Info |
#2
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You can JB Weld a brass tube onto the tank in place of the plastic one or replace the radiator with any aftermarket metal one. Replacing the tank itself requires alot of labor to bend the retainers back then making sure they are crimped evenly to not cause the tank to crack eventually.
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
#3
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JB let me down?
That's never happened to me before.
I have been using JB weld forever, it should be called FM Weld (for Fing Magic). But it has let me down twice on this job. I can't get it to form a bond with the junky recycled plastic. I have roughed up the surface of the plastic with sandpaper and made tripple shure it was clean. It holds for a while but lets go when the ambiant gets to 105*F and the AC is on. Id really like to fix it that way but am getting sceptical. I'm considering taking the broak off nipple to the local plastics company and seeing if they can tell me what adheasive to use on it. Any Ideas from the groupe would be very welcome. This is turning into a real point of honer.
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82 300SD AKA The Dieter Beater 85 GMC Jimmy AKA #$%((@ Both on WVO |
#4
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Some posters have reported success with tapping the tank and screwing in a brass fitting. I suppose it would depend on how much was broken (how big and rough the hole is).
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#5
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Slickest fix I ever heard of (might have been Larry Bible) was to put a tire valve stem in the hole.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE Last edited by Palangi; 06-20-2008 at 09:07 PM. |
#6
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Been There, Done that
Thanks for all thre ideas fellas. Maybe I need to give more infromation.
First I tapped the hole to 1/4" Pipe and installed a 1/4 M/Pipe to 3/8 hose barb brass fitting. It leaked. RTV applied. Still leaked. JB Weld applied. Still leaked. I then Obtained an air break line fitting from a truck shop. They are made to go through frame and body members with a nut on each side. Kind of like a bulkhead fitting but smaller. Same idea as the valve stem. Installed with "O" rings and RTV. It leaked. JB weld. It leaked. Bigger fitting. It leaked. Tightened the H&!! out of it. Split the tank fron hole to about 2" above and 1" below the hole. Prepped and cleaned whole area to 2" beyond cracks, JB Weld. Held for about a week. I am down to an adheasive fix or a new tank. I don't come to you guys with trivial problems. But when I do someone usually has the answer.
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82 300SD AKA The Dieter Beater 85 GMC Jimmy AKA #$%((@ Both on WVO |
#7
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You have any PNP in the Fresno area? just pull a radiator off a junker, has to be better than what you have. you have junk now. trying to micky mouse it together, the thing will blow on you some where between fresno and Buttonwillow.
Anybody that knows this area of Ca. it looks like where the mars lander is. your other option is a new radiator. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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Damn Aluminum Tabs!
Even if you could access a "New" tank the Aluminum Tabs that hold the Tank
(And "O"-ring) in place have been weakened by repeated heat stress...bending them open and then closed again weakens them even more. I tried it with the SD and a new tank and gasket and had a professional radiator shop do the work...They even had the machine to re-bend the tabs all at once. one word... Screwed. if you can find a Copper radiator go for it and only have to replace the unit once in your lifetime.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#9
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Mercar tyhere are no junkwyards when you are? Gety one there
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 |
#10
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I really really like the idea of a copper radiator. Does anyone know what I should be looking for that would be a reasonable fit with out a lot of periferal mods?
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82 300SD AKA The Dieter Beater 85 GMC Jimmy AKA #$%((@ Both on WVO |
#11
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Any good radiator shop should be able to get one for your specific application. So no mods, its just fully metal not aluminum and plastic.
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
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