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  #1  
Old 06-20-2008, 02:06 PM
IronHead
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fresno,
Posts: 25
Plastic Radiator Tank Availability (NOT)

Some time ago I read a post on replacing the plastic top radiator tank on my 82 300SD with a new one. The overflow nipple that goes to the coolant bottle just broke off so now I need one. I serched the archives and found a message from the original poster saying he had found the number of the company that he had gotten his from. I Called and was disappointed to find that they will sell to radiator shops only. The outfit is called "Northern Factory" in Willmar MN. 1-800-328-8900.

I suppose I could fake it as I do have a resale lic. But they kind of ticked me off. I post this in the intrest of informing others before they call to be ready with the BS and to find out if anyone knows of a nother source.

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Last edited by Meplat; 06-20-2008 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Add Info
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2008, 02:13 PM
carnut's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Stockton California
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You can JB Weld a brass tube onto the tank in place of the plastic one or replace the radiator with any aftermarket metal one. Replacing the tank itself requires alot of labor to bend the retainers back then making sure they are crimped evenly to not cause the tank to crack eventually.
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2008, 02:39 PM
IronHead
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fresno,
Posts: 25
JB let me down?

That's never happened to me before.

I have been using JB weld forever, it should be called FM Weld (for Fing Magic). But it has let me down twice on this job. I can't get it to form a bond with the junky recycled plastic. I have roughed up the surface of the plastic with sandpaper and made tripple shure it was clean. It holds for a while but lets go when the ambiant gets to 105*F and the AC is on. Id really like to fix it that way but am getting sceptical. I'm considering taking the broak off nipple to the local plastics company and seeing if they can tell me what adheasive to use on it.

Any Ideas from the groupe would be very welcome. This is turning into a real point of honer.
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Both on WVO
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2008, 07:40 PM
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Some posters have reported success with tapping the tank and screwing in a brass fitting. I suppose it would depend on how much was broken (how big and rough the hole is).
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2008, 07:53 PM
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Slickest fix I ever heard of (might have been Larry Bible) was to put a tire valve stem in the hole.
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Last edited by Palangi; 06-20-2008 at 09:07 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2008, 09:03 PM
IronHead
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fresno,
Posts: 25
Been There, Done that

Thanks for all thre ideas fellas. Maybe I need to give more infromation.

First I tapped the hole to 1/4" Pipe and installed a 1/4 M/Pipe to 3/8 hose barb brass fitting. It leaked. RTV applied. Still leaked. JB Weld applied. Still leaked. I then Obtained an air break line fitting from a truck shop. They are made to go through frame and body members with a nut on each side. Kind of like a bulkhead fitting but smaller. Same idea as the valve stem. Installed with "O" rings and RTV. It leaked. JB weld. It leaked. Bigger fitting. It leaked. Tightened the H&!! out of it. Split the tank fron hole to about 2" above and 1" below the hole. Prepped and cleaned whole area to 2" beyond cracks, JB Weld. Held for about a week. I am down to an adheasive fix or a new tank. I don't come to you guys with trivial problems. But when I do someone usually has the answer.
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Both on WVO
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2008, 12:44 AM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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You have any PNP in the Fresno area? just pull a radiator off a junker, has to be better than what you have. you have junk now. trying to micky mouse it together, the thing will blow on you some where between fresno and Buttonwillow.
Anybody that knows this area of Ca. it looks like where the mars lander is.

your other option is a new radiator.

Charlie
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2008, 01:14 AM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Damn Aluminum Tabs!

Even if you could access a "New" tank the Aluminum Tabs that hold the Tank
(And "O"-ring) in place have been weakened by repeated heat stress...bending
them open and then closed again weakens them even more.

I tried it with the SD and a new tank and gasket and had a professional
radiator shop do the work...They even had the machine to re-bend the tabs
all at once.
one word... Screwed.

if you can find a Copper radiator go for it and only have to replace the unit
once in your lifetime.
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  #9  
Old 06-21-2008, 04:03 AM
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Mercar tyhere are no junkwyards when you are? Gety one there
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2008, 11:54 AM
IronHead
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fresno,
Posts: 25
I really really like the idea of a copper radiator. Does anyone know what I should be looking for that would be a reasonable fit with out a lot of periferal mods?
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85 GMC Jimmy AKA #$%((@

Both on WVO
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  #11  
Old 06-21-2008, 05:53 PM
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Any good radiator shop should be able to get one for your specific application. So no mods, its just fully metal not aluminum and plastic.

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