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  #1  
Old 06-25-2008, 11:48 AM
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What to look for in a benz 300 td 82-89 diesel??

I am looking to purchase a MB 300 td turbo diesel. I have seen one that looks pretty decent. Some people suggest getting a PPI, where should I get this? at a benz dealer? a german car shop or a diesel mechanic?
also what are the most common things I should be aware of besides rust?
are 300td from one year better than from another?

what are the common cost for maintaining a car like this? for example brakes?

I am also thinking in converting it into a vegetable running car and also biodiesel. Couple of people have suggested putting a second tank on the car to extend the life of the car, how easy/hard is this? approxi how much would it be?

thanks for any suggestions.

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  #2  
Old 06-25-2008, 11:52 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sunrise, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kunturwilka View Post
I am looking to purchase a MB 300 td turbo diesel. I have seen one that looks pretty decent. Some people suggest getting a PPI, where should I get this? at a benz dealer? a german car shop or a diesel mechanic?
also what are the most common things I should be aware of besides rust?
are 300td from one year better than from another?

what are the common cost for maintaining a car like this? for example brakes?

I am also thinking in converting it into a vegetable running car and also biodiesel. Couple of people have suggested putting a second tank on the car to extend the life of the car, how easy/hard is this? approxi how much would it be?

thanks for any suggestions.
YES, if you are unfamilar with a MB,
get a PPI. I would look for anything pre "85" after that, they went to the 6cyl......not nearly as bulletproof IMHO.
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82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride

82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown
83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too
84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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  #3  
Old 06-25-2008, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
There are significant differences between the 82-85 123 TD's a later models. You should decide which problems with which you are comfortable dealing. Many people here prefer the 617 engine in the 82-85 TD's. Later engines have aluminum heads.
The hydropneumatic suspension on the wagons is the cat's meow but can be expensive to repair if major parts fail.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #4  
Old 06-25-2008, 12:07 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,177
It also helps to be mechanically inclined, so you can work on your own car. Save lots on labor. Parts are not as expensive as some are lead to think because it's an MB. There are some parts that are expensive, like ACC, cruise control parts, etc. Brakes, filters, engine cooling, drive line parts, etc. not so bad.
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2008, 04:17 PM
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KHAAAAAAN-gress
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 5,187
newb.

Despite what some people say, you will not be bankrupted if you can't do the work yourself. Any job that would take me over 2 hours, I usually send to my indy. The trick is to find an independent shop that's reasonable, knowledgeable, and honest. Usually you don't hit it on the first try.

Think of maintenance as your car payment towards a longer, more useful life. I've had my 300d for less than a year, and had alot of bugs to work out. My initial $2,000 purchase quickly turned into a $6,000 investment total, but now she is close to perfect. I expect this payment to be at least $100-$200 average monthly now that all the bugs are worked out.

What price range are you looking at? The cheaper you go, the more likely you are to bury yourself in deferred maintenance like I did.

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