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  #1  
Old 06-30-2008, 02:03 AM
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240D Changing the rear main???

I am pulling my engine and doing a mod that requires the removal of the upper oil pan before the engine goes in an old Land Rover.

I know I will be able the remove and install the seal on the lower pan, but is there away to replace the upper portion of the seal without removing the crank shaft?

Thanks

KingSlug
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2008, 02:14 AM
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Not that I know of.
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2008, 03:25 AM
ForcedInduction
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without removing the crank shaft?

Nope.
Step 1- Remove engine.
Step 2- Remove crankshaft.

Definitely one of MB's few terrible design choices in the OM61x series.
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2008, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Nope.
Step 1- Remove engine.
Step 2- Remove crankshaft.

Definitely one of MB's few terrible design choices in the OM61x series.
How exactly is the seal held that you would have to remove the crank? Is it under one of the main bearings?
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2008, 04:43 AM
ForcedInduction
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Its a rope seal so it can't just be pulled out and a new one punched in like a lip seal. It uses a crush fit so removal is not the problem, installation is.
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  #6  
Old 06-30-2008, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Its a rope seal so it can't just be pulled out and a new one punched in like a lip seal. It uses a crush fit so removal is not the problem, installation is.
Sounds like fun..
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As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
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  #7  
Old 06-30-2008, 07:09 AM
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I think on most rope seal cars its possible to loosten the main caps and roll in the new rope. I have not personally ever done this and I don't know anybody who has with a 616 either.

Tom W
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  #8  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:40 AM
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No, Its not possible to replace the upper half of the seal without crank removal. Its a hard pre-formed fibrous material impregnated with graphite. Its around 3/4 of a cm thick, and held tightly in the slot of the crank-case and oil-pan...

Care must be taken when re-fitting/replacing to ensure the butt ends are flush and flat with the mating halves. A 'TINY' amount of sealer should be used on the mating ends of the seal halves...
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  #9  
Old 06-30-2008, 10:25 AM
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I did this job last winter on a 616 and also replaced the rod bearings but the mains were fine. The manual says to leave 1mm of the rope seal standing proud, which requires some carving with a razor knife.
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  #10  
Old 06-30-2008, 01:12 PM
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Not quite sure why mercedes went with this rope seal instead of the usual lip type seal... would make the world an easier place.. Allthough, is there any benefit to having this kind of seal? is it more durable or resistant?
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
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1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2008, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
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Allthough, is there any benefit to having this kind of seal? is it more durable or resistant?
More sealing surface, cheaper and less wear on the crank.
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2008, 05:41 PM
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I wonder if one could left that end of the crank (without letting the timing chain go) to get the seal in, wasn't an issue with my job because I replaced the timing chain. Engine on the stand of course
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  #13  
Old 06-30-2008, 07:57 PM
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This may not apply. I'm going to throw in on it anyway.

I replaced a two piece rope seal in my 6.2L without crankshaft removal. Loosened all of my main cap bolts 1/4 turn. Used a few pieces of AWG#10 copper wire in an electric drill as a hone of sorts to chase the rope seal out. One wire at a time. As copper is softer than cast iron, it did not scar the metal.

My two cents, it worked for me. I then slid in the new rubber seals and off I went.

-EDIT-

There is also a tool that may work, if you're lucky. A Sneaky Pete, didn't work for me however.
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2008, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoyoteStarfish View Post
This may not apply. I'm going to throw in on it anyway.

I replaced a two piece rope seal in my 6.2L without crankshaft removal. Loosened all of my main cap bolts 1/4 turn. Used a few pieces of AWG#10 copper wire in an electric drill as a hone of sorts to chase the rope seal out. One wire at a time. As copper is softer than cast iron, it did not scar the metal.

My two cents, it worked for me. I then slid in the new rubber seals and off I went.

-EDIT-

There is also a tool that may work, if you're lucky. A Sneaky Pete, didn't work for me however.
i think i would just remove the crankshaft to polish it.
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
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  #15  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Care must be taken when re-fitting/replacing to ensure the butt ends are flush and flat with the mating halves.
As already stated this is not what the fsm says to do. I think the spec is to have .1mm extension on the packing, opps I mean seal.

This is old school design. Keep in mind too that there is a pin that prevents the seal from moving in the long direction. No way will you get one in successfully without removing the crank.
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