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95 E300 front window fuse keeps blowing?
Just bought the car a week ago, front window fuse keeps blowing. The switches seem to operate correctly ie don't stick. Rear windows are fine.
Any ideas? |
How quickly does the fuse blow? Immediately, as soon as you press the switch, or after a few seconds. If the latter, does the window move?
Does this affect both front windows? In most Benzes, the LF and RR windows are on one fuse and the RF and LR are on another. Which fuse is blowing? Is it the right size according to the fuse chart in the lid of the fuse box? Jeremy |
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in my 124 there is one fuse for the front windows and one for the rear. I replaced with the same (red) fuse although the newer fuses look thinner thats probably because of different material used? It will work for anywhere from a few hours to a few days, it hasn't happened while actually operating the windows but when I go to raise or lower and its blown.... thx! |
Interesting. My '87 W124 car has fuse "G" for LF & RR and fuse "H" for RF & LR. They must have made some changes in the later models.
Based on your description, I would say there is an intermittent short circuit in the window wiring harness, possibly a partially-broken "hot" wire that occasionally touches the chassis or another wire. Good places to look (if difficult of access) are the rubber "tunnels" that carry wires into the doors. In the W124 models, Mercedes used a stranded wire with too few strands of too large gauge. These wires tend to break after many years of bending. I had such a problem with my 87's RR door. When I pulled the cable out of the rubber tunnel, it was all bent and broken up -- I was surprised at how bad it was. The wires had broken through the outer covering and I had to rebuild the cable. I recommend tracing all of the wires to and from the windows and checking for damaged wires. Start with the console switches (because it's easier), then the driver's door and the kick panel next to it, then the other front door, then the rear doors. |
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I'll report back when I find the problem. I had a dealer inspect the car before I bought it so I feel good about the car... my 95 maxima doesn't have these types of problems but then again it wont run B100 :D |
The W124 models didn't have a lot of specific "model problems" but the door wiring was one of them. I do not know for sure whether the entire run of 124s including your last-year 1995 model had this problem. Perhaps someone else can comment.
Some people believe that the 124s were the best thing that Mercedes ever produced. I have both the predecessor (123) and the successor (210) to the 124 and my personal preference is for the 124. Your '95 model has all of the fixes and updates (whatever they were) performed during the model years from 1986 to 1995 plus the new OM606 engine. It should be a great car. |
95's had the biodegradable engine harness......they may well have been the worst as W124's became more and more electronic as the years progressed.
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No biggie, that harness was only $250 if you bribe the dealer parts man with donuts and brownies. Not that bad to R&R either.
IMHO, the 95 E300 makes an AWESOME biobuggy! Mine prefers it straight up, no mixers! B100! |
Thats why I flew to Houston for this particular model :)
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Pretty much ended with 96. Started about 90. Affected all models to my knowledge.
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Just an update for this thread. Last week I discovered that the bottom fuse connection point was all corroded so I cleaned it with some emery paper on the end of a phillips driver. So far so good I think that solved it!!!! :)
Also continues to run superb on B100, ordered heater pads for the filter and tank for colder weather to hopefully stay near B100 use |
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