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  #16  
Old 07-09-2008, 02:42 PM
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One of my local mechanics said he cant change my timing chain because you have to have a special riveting tool? He referred me to the dealer.
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  #17  
Old 07-09-2008, 02:50 PM
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Well, it's best done with the chain riveting tool. Any decent MB mechanic should have this though. Some people have carefully peened the chain links with a ball-peen hammer and a dolly, but I'd avoid that if possible. Photos of the riveting tool kit are at this link.

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  #18  
Old 07-09-2008, 04:03 PM
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Is it possible to advance the timing to compensate for 4* of chain stretch. I'm thinking that would get rid of the sputtering by correcting the IP timing until I can get to the chain. Only sputters and smokes white until warm.
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2008, 04:08 PM
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Yes. If your chain is only stretched 4, you are at the limit allowed by the FSM, and the car will run decently well. You can adjust the IP timing to compensate, set the IP timing to 14 ATDC. This will help, if the current IP timing is retarded (16-18 ATDC). Just remember that if the chain is replaced later on, the IP timing MUST be re-adjusted after the new chain is rolled in.

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  #20  
Old 07-09-2008, 04:54 PM
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Thanks gonna try and retime the IP. What would one pay to have that done at an indy,considering I don't have the drip tool. Is it possible to eyeball it by moving the pump towards the head like a cummins?
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  #21  
Old 07-09-2008, 05:02 PM
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No drip tube is needed for the OM60x engines, there are tools which can be used to do this without opening any of the fuel lines. A good indy should be able to do this in less than 2 hours, so I'd say <$200 for labor as a rough estimate. It's possible to eyeball it, you remove the hex plug on the side of the IP, and look for the "tang" inside to be centered in the hole at 14 ATDC. The proper tools get the tang dead center so it's accurate, but you can probably get within a degree or two via the eyeball method (?).

In the photo below, the hex plug is on the left side, the tang should point at the hole on the left side when the crank is at 14 ATDC. I also posted a photo of the correct tool used to set IP timing. It's a huge time saver.





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  #22  
Old 07-09-2008, 05:46 PM
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Gonna have the Indy do it in the morning. Got quoted 1 hour labor at $85 per hr. I will keep ya posted if the timing at 14 ATDC cures the sputtering and white smoke on startup. keeping my fingers crossed!
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  #23  
Old 07-09-2008, 09:03 PM
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Wow, you actually found an honest mechanic! I can do this job on my cars in about an hour, but I think a lot of shops tend to "pad" estimates which is why I said anything under 2 hours would be reasonable. I didn't expect someone to actully give you an accurate estimate! $85 is great. Let us know how it goes...

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  #24  
Old 07-10-2008, 02:44 AM
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What about getting the chain replaced? What would a reasonable estimate be? The local indy here quoted me roughly around $500 for parts and labor. The chain itself is about $170. Said the tensioner on the 602 had to be removed to do this.
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  #25  
Old 07-10-2008, 04:15 AM
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Tensioner r&r is like 15 minutes.

Post #16 says your mechanic can't come up with the crimper.

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  #26  
Old 07-10-2008, 04:57 AM
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Different one, there are 2 now. First one referred me to the dealer, the other said about $500. I am supposed to hear back from the dealer in the AM to see what they want to do it. That should be a good laugh. Or cry.
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  #27  
Old 07-10-2008, 12:15 PM
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Book time is approx 2 hours for a 602/603 timing chain job. Realistic time is 3-4 hours, including re-timing the IP (which MUST be done afterwards!). Plus about $200 (dealer list price) for parts. $500 total for everything is within reason, IMO...

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  #28  
Old 07-10-2008, 12:20 PM
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Thats what I was looking to hear. He did say it took about 4 hours start to finish. Since this is not something i am going to be able to do, just want to make sure I dont get raked through the coals having someone else do it. Dealer hasnt gotten back with me yet. That will be interesting.
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  #29  
Old 07-10-2008, 09:04 PM
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So the indy talked me out of messing with the timing for now and thought that my leaking stop lever might be hanging up when the pump cools and is not fully releasing. Which would explain why it only does it in the morning when cold(65degrees). I'm gonna fix the oring and report back. Hey Biglex, got a leaky stop lever?
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  #30  
Old 07-11-2008, 02:10 AM
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Nope, no leaky lever here.

Got a quote from the dealer today. They quoted me about $450 for labor, the part is about $170, so about $620 total. Thats high, but the indy is putting it over $500 too, so it may not be a bad idea to get it done at the dealer. The dealer was VERY insistant that whoever I have do it use the proper tools to do it right. He said he could not stress that enough.
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