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#1
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Sputtering
Ok gonna make this short and sweet. I have changed all the filters, havent done much else though. My 92 300D is sputtering on take off until about 2000 (about when the turbo kicks in) then it is smooth as can be. My mechanic said it could be injectors, but I wanted to get the forums take. Any thoughts?
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1996 E300 D 1992 300D 1990 Ford E-350 7.3 Diesel AKA "the Deep Fryer" |
#2
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How many Miles on the 602.962 ?
(Have you checked the timing chain wear?)
( Have you ever tried any injector cleaner,BG...Etc. You can get new Monark Nozzles installed in your injector bodies from member C.Sean Watts for a VERY reasonable price.[Less than $30.00 each] .I would send Sean the old injector bodies and let him "Shim" and "Pop Test" the new installation for you.Then it's just put the "new" injectors in and go.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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well unfortunately I need the car to get back and forth to work. Havent checked the timing chain, but I have ran countless amounts of diesel purge, b100, diesel kleen, sea foam, anything I could think of.
Got 202000 on the old girl. At 70, she is smooth as silk.
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1996 E300 D 1992 300D 1990 Ford E-350 7.3 Diesel AKA "the Deep Fryer" |
#4
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Do you have boost and a smoothly shifting trans at lower rpm's?
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) Last edited by TMAllison; 07-03-2008 at 01:01 PM. |
#5
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pop the hood and see if you have fuel depositing around your injectors. You might have a leaks at an injector(s) or the rubber fuel injector bypass hose(s).
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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed ------------------------------------- '92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold '83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold '87 300D Turbodiesel - sold '82 300D Turbodiesel - sold |
#6
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I'll wager that it's a stretched timing chain, which is also retarding the injection pump timing. The pump timing advances with RPM, which would explain why it smooths out at 2000rpm or so. The early 90's 60x engines had a rash of bad chains... mine was about 8° stretched when I got it at 155kmi. Check the chain first (instructions are here - you need to pull the valve cover and fan+clutch), replace if stretched past the spec in that PDF doc.
The new chain will change IP timing so adjust IP timing afterwards. If the chain is within spec, then check IP timing, set to 14° ATDC. Pretty likely this will cure the problem. It also might not be a bad idea to tweak the ALDA a bit, assuming you have the square (not round) ALDA, if you have never done so. |
#7
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Checked the fuel lines, no sign of leaks. I do have boost, but it doesnt really kick in til nearly 2K rpm. Transmission has always shifted rough. I have heard it could be a vacuum problem with that though. I had not thought about the timing chain, but that does make good sense. I am guessing it would be a good idea to get it changed anyway after 200k miles. I will check this and report back once i get it done. Thanks for all the info.
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1996 E300 D 1992 300D 1990 Ford E-350 7.3 Diesel AKA "the Deep Fryer" |
#8
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I've got the same issue with a 93 300d. Seems to only happen in the morning first start of the day and goes away within a mile or so. I've got just under 4 degrees of Timing chain stretch and need to get the new one in and reset timing. Hopefully that helps. When studdering it blows white smoke then clears when warm.
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1984 190d 2.2 Greasecar Kit. Running Wvo for 25K 1993 300D 2.5T Black on Black. Soon to be Greasy! |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Is it adviseable to replace the cam sprocket along with the chain (and tensioner and ...) on 602s subject to premature chain elongation? Folks seem to not replace cam sprockets on 603s when rolling in a new chain.
Sixto 87 300D |
#11
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Sixto, The sprocket doesn't need to be replaced, unless the teeth are worn, which is not usually the case. But it wouldn't hurt to replace it, especially with >200kmi. I don't think I've ever seen a failed 60x tensioner (yet), but it wouldn't hurt to replace that either. For the record, I did not replace either of those items on my cars... only the chain. I did use a new OE master link, with a press-fit center plate. The aftermarket links typically have a slip-fit center plate. |
#12
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Scroll to bottom of this window and on the left, set the pull down window to LOW graphics. No more pop ups.....
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#13
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#14
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Quote:
Back to the white smoke... my '93 arrived in winter and coughed, sputtered, blew white smoke, and generally ran poorly at lower RPMs (but sometimes could cough at speed). Click here and here for some short videos of what it looked and sounded like. Since the car was shipped from Alabama, I thought it might be non-winterized fuel, or old/bad fuel (it didn't smell good). That's when I found the chain was stretched and the IP timing was retarded (17° or 18° ATDC, I think). Adjusting the IP timing to spec helped a lot, but didn't cure it entirely. Replacing the chain, re-adjusting IP timing (it will change with the new chain), and fresh fuel cured it entirely. Hasn't sputtered since. |
#15
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The low graphics setting may not work. Seems some browsers are being hi-jacked recently....
Is it possible that Y31/1 & 2(?) are responsible for the surging?
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
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