Ah well, bring the "new" car into the shop and begin a stem to stern inspection and you are sure to open a can of worms. Spent the morning draining the fuel tank so I can replace the old hoses with biodiesel proof ones and while that was proceeding I got the alt and ps belts switched out and while under the front end I spied worn out balljoints, tierod ends etc. Any recommendations as to brand or will Napa parts be okay. I am willing to buy right so any advice is welcome.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Try and get Febi, Lemforder, or MOOG parts. You can get them on this site under "Order Parts".

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I bought the el cheapo kit from Ebay. You can get most of it done with OEM parts for not much more. All of it is pretty much DIY if you have the time.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

There is 2 sellers on Ebay selling front end kits. 1 is importbaron; which there is an extensive thread on suggesting he is a shady dealer (a.K.a. the big Babboo). The other seller has a much higher feed back rating of 99.7%.
Over the weekend I bought the a kit from that seller. However, I do not believe there is any chance any of the parts in the kit are OEM.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It may always pay to at least price the oem parts before buying aftermarket. They in general lasted very well on 123s etc.
Some german aftermarket front end parts for volkswagon diesels we thought were good for only about a year or so. Aftermarket parts can be false value if you intending to keep your car long term sometimes. On the otherhand if the archives identify really good aftermarket brands for our cars. Why not use them if money is saved.

unfortunately the only way to find out if an aftermarket part is good is usually to buy it and use it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My Front suspension kit arrived yesterday all of the part were made by the Uro parts company So far I have found nothing that states what country these parts were made in eithe on a lable of the prarts themselves???
What came in the kit
2- tie rods
1- drag link
4- lower control arm bushings
2- complete upper control arms with bushings installed.
4- rubber parts that go behind the upper control arm ball joint that pads that rod (sorry I do not know the name)
2-lower ball joints
1- Idler arm bushing kit with the bolt
I thought I would only be getting front end parts but for ther rear end there is
4- trailing arm bushings
2- sway bar links (plastic)
If you are interested in further details pleas PM me.
Added later- I went to their web site the parts could be made anywhere in the world it appears including China, Brazil, Spain and so on were some of the places they listed.
http://www.uroparts.com/

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hi i have a pair of tight used ball joints from the car Im parting out. I drove the car prior to parting it out and THEY ARE STILL STIGHT.

As for the tie rods they are worn out.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

A new ball OEM ball joint is $25, why would you spend all the time to replace the ball joint, then use a used part?! http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=2lo1bh3pc3cae155v5qjkpa5&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193532@300CD&year=1980&cid=ball@ball&gid=7456@Ball%20Joint

********az has some good prices. I just got all the parts I need to do the front suspension (not tie-rods) for $300

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Not trying to steal the thread, but how can you look at a ball joint and tell if its good or bad?

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

by jacking up a wheel and doing the wiggle test on the tire. If you have some to alot movement then its bad. Also you can tell by driving the car too.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)