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#1
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Break issue/I'm an idiot
So I successfully changed the front right wheel bearings on my '85 300D. However, being a complete novice/retard, I took the caliper apart (undid the 4 bolts that hold the two halves together instead of the 2 mounting bolts). I'd say about 4-8oz of fluid leaked out before I had it all put back together. After immediately detecting that the front brakes weren't working properly or at all, I topped off the fluid in the rear half of the reservoir and bled the system as described in the haynes book. Still not working. Did I ruin the caliper, do I need to bleed more (we pushed the brake pedal down 6-8 times to expel air, releasing once the master cylinder inlet hole for the front right weel was sealed by my finger - plenty of fluid was spewing out by the end), what have I done?!
So bummed out, any advice is greatly appreciated. |
#2
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Technically, yes. The caliper halves should never be separated. So the safest thing to do is replace the caliper. And good practice requires that the caliper on the opposite wheel also be replaced.
Practically speaking, folks have successfully reassembled calipers. If yours doesn't leak and safety is not your top priority, you might get away with bolting it back together. Then bleed both front calipers. But first get a piece of clear PVC hose to attach to the bleeder screw so you can actually see that all the air has been bled out; the "finger" technique doesn't work very well. |
#3
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You can expect to push the pedal down a whole lot. When I replace my fluid I probably push it down a good 20-30 times per wheel. So with that much air let in I would say to just keep bleeding the whole system. LOTS of air is going to slowly come out.
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#4
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ok, thanks for the advice. i'm a little confused about the bleeder screw. this is on the master cylinder?
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#5
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On the caliper.
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#6
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You're far from the first person to inadvertanty unbolt those 4 bolts. If you were careful and kept the seam clean when you rebolted it there is no good reason why it should not be usable. I'd suggest trying to bleed it again and once it is bled right then check it for leaks. If it is not leaking at the seam there is no reason to replace it.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#7
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When I replaced my right front caliper and all 4 brake hoses, I wound up having to bleed the system twice AND crack the lines at the master cylinder as well before I got my solid pedal back.
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Sharing my partner's 2012 Forte 5dr SX til I find my next 123 or 126.. - Do I miss being a service advisor ??? |
#8
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I fill a small cup with brake fluid and put a hose going from the bleed nipple down below the surface of the brake fluid in the cup, then keep the reservoir topped up and pump away, that should keep air from getting back into the system through the bleed nipple and I just pump until there are no more bubbles coming out. also bleed the brake farthest from the reservoir first.
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'81 300D - swapped to a 617.951 turbo motor with a 150 amp alt. |
#9
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I think you can build a caliper rebuild kit. Is this not an option?
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#10
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"Rebuild" is a bit of an exaggeration. The "kit" consists of new piston seals, dust boots and sometimes heat shields. Repair of disassembed caliper halves is not part of the deal.
Last edited by tangofox007; 07-10-2008 at 08:15 PM. |
#11
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Search "gravity bleed" - works like a charm. I have done it after replacing calipers, left them bone-dry and just cracked the bleeders one at a time. The key is to NEVER let the reservoir go dry and be patient. It takes about an hour but works better than other bleeding methods IMHO.
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