1985 300DT Fuse List?
 

The manual I have doesn't have a list of fuses. I'm looking over the forum and a maintenance manual I have, but can't find it.
I'm trying to get my windshield washer to work. I don't hear the motor turning when I push the washer switch, so I'm starting with the fuses. Just don't know which is which.
Any other suggestions beyond the fuse would be appreciated also.
Thanks again and in advance.
Jay

There should be a list of fuses on the backside of the fusebox lid.

I was hoping there would be a list inside the lid, but no go.

Here it is.

Windshield Washer Issue
 

Thanks, Jeremy.
Well, without looking, I can say that my "no windshield washer issue" isn't the fuse because the wipers were working fine. The list shows that they share the same fuse.
So....what's next in my quest to restore my windshield washer? I don't even hear a sound when I push the washer switch, and the resevoir has fluid.

By the way, in another thread someone suggested getting all new fuses to replace the old-style ones. What are the new style ones? Is this a good idea?
Thanks again.
Jay

I wasn't a Mercedes owner when our cars were new so I don't know what kind of fuses the cars had put in them at the factory. Received wisdom today is that copper or brass (some kind of alloy) fuses are better than aluminum. Apparently the aluminum oxide that coats the bare metal after years of exposure is an insulator. Thus, old aluminum fuses gradually lose their ability to conduct electricity. Copper and brass also oxidize with age but less so and with lesser bad effects. So go replace all your fuses with copper/brass. If you already have such things, remove each one and make sure the ends are clean -- gently sandpaper the ends if necessary. Make sure the strip down the middle is not cracked.

The windshield washer uses a small electric pump in the fluid container. Pressing the wash switch turns on the pump for a few seconds. If you hear nothing, the pump may not be working. It could be electrically dead or not getting any electricity or clogged up so fluid won't pass through it. You can check for 12 volts at the terminals of the pump when the button is pressed. You can put 12 volts directly to the pump to see if the pump works. The switch and the wiring is less likely to be a problem but still possible. Check the wiring where it goes into the plug at the pump and make sure the terminals that plug onto the pump or the pins of the pump are not corroded. If you determine for sure that your pump is bad I probably have a good one you can have. By the way, the rubber grommet that seals between the tank and the pump will probably need replacement. Fastlane probably has that (click "Buy Parts" at the top of this page). Supporting them supports this forum.

Jeremy