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  #16  
Old 07-11-2008, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Trying to squeeze a little additional service out of a weak battery is false economy at its finest. Possible unintended consequences include damaging your alternator and starter, damaging to the vehicle due to excessive outgassing and boilovers, and getting stranded at an inconvenient time or place.

A typical battery has a monthly cost of that is less than the cost of a couple quarts of diesel fuel. Not exactly great savings potential; even less if the battery is covered under a prorated warranty.

I second tangofox 100%! I can't believe people trying to stretch a dying battery at the cost of a more expensive alternator, a starter that draws MORE amps as the voltage drops and the additional small amount of extra fuel you are using to drive your alternator trying to charge a poor condition battery at high amperage.

SPEND A DOLLAR TO SAVE A DIME!!!!!
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2008, 04:49 PM
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Good reading here re battery restoration on my buddy Jim's webpage.

At one point he had a schematic for a desulfator up.

http://www.dallas.net/~jvpoll/Battery/aaDesulfatorSurvey.html

Ah, here we go:

http://www.dallas.net/~jvpoll/Battery/PerformanceDoc23/PerformanceDocumentation_Units23.html
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  #18  
Old 07-11-2008, 05:43 PM
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I may have all the parts to make that desulfator. I just have to find my 555 timer ic's and I can just breadboard it.
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  #19  
Old 07-11-2008, 11:06 PM
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White plastic isn't expensive, it just doesn't have the carbon black added. Most plastics are a white or putty color naturally. Black is the most common because carbon gives many plastics UV stability (yeah, I did that for a living).

Reconditioning a battery that is not performing well isn't necessarily a "dying battery". Batteries last a long time if properly conditioned during use, sometimes the neglect from a weak charging system can be completely reversed (often even) with the right procedure.

Think of it as reducing your carbon footprint if you wish, or saving the processing of a heavy metal and more plastic going to a landfill, ... whatever helps you sleep, or just saving money.
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Last edited by babymog; 07-12-2008 at 11:43 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2008, 10:42 PM
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Here is some basic generic battery advise... (I worked for a battery company for 15 years)

1. Charge the battery..... with a 6 or 10 amp charger, just charge it untill it has reached peak voltage. This is usually above 15 volts. 15.5 is good. It might take 3 - 6 - 9 hours to reach peak voltage. If the battery gets hot, unplug it, let it cool, then charge again.

2. Let the battery sit overnight.....

3. measure the voltage
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  #21  
Old 07-12-2008, 10:45 PM
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12.6 = fully charged.
12.4 = 75% capacity
12.2 = 50% capacity
less than that..... replace the battery.

The bottom line is that the battery stores energy. They wear out. 38 months is the actual average battery life of all automotive batteries. (you can do better, just take care of it) So... see how old it is.... see how much voltage the battery retains overnight. Anything above 12.5 is good. Any battery below 12.2 is on borrowed time.
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  #22  
Old 07-13-2008, 05:07 AM
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Is this just a myth about leaving your battery on the cement causing it to discharge and crap?
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  #23  
Old 07-13-2008, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
Is this just a myth about leaving your battery on the cement causing it to discharge and crap?
Yes.

A long time ago battery boxes were made with wood using dovetail joints at the corners. It was recommended to set them on a wood pallet to avoid the jarring shock if set down on concrete breaking the joints loose.
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  #24  
Old 07-13-2008, 12:17 PM
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I have been using reconditioned batteries from a local shop that sell for $29.95 for the past six years. They have always lasted at least three years, and come in a choice of brands. I have used Varta and Nationwide brands in the proper recommended size.

If you live in Miami, the shop is just north of NW 135th street on NW 27th Avenue and is named Battery Nation. They normally have batteries in most sizes, and will test batteries and alternators for free. They are honest as well, and will not try to sell you a battery or repair you don't need.
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  #25  
Old 07-13-2008, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
Yes.

A long time ago battery boxes were made with wood using dovetail joints at the corners. It was recommended to set them on a wood pallet to avoid the jarring shock if set down on concrete breaking the joints loose.
Actually, it is more because they changed the case material. The older batteries had more of a rubber type case than new batteries. In the 70s, you did not want to leave a battery on concrete or it would discharge. Today, it is not a problem at all.
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  #26  
Old 07-13-2008, 01:36 PM
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A battery stored on the concrete floor will self discharge sooner than on wood or other thermal insulator. Concrete and the battery siting on it is often colder than humid air in your garage. Condensation,dirt and road salt on it's surface makes an excellent conductor.
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2008, 05:39 PM
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Yeah its an old wives tale. The guys at the Interstate dealer always laugh about it.
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