Coolant Flush Question

[bgkast]

I have just finished replacing my thermostat and water pump on my 616 and would like to do a coolant flush and replace the coolant with G-05. While changing the water pump I think I got about 3 gal of coolant out of the system, which is the capacity. Do I still need to pull the block drain? If I do is the block drain the 19mm hex head that is just above and in front of my starter motor? Thanks. -Bryan

[Brian Carlton]

Can't be sure of the 616, but the 617 leaves all the coolant, below the thermostat housing, in the block. When you open the block drain, 2-3 quarts pour out on the floor. This is prior to removal of the water pump so, I would expect some reduction in this amount. However, there remains quite a bit of coolant near the botttom of the block.

You've described the exact location for the 617. I presume the 616 is similar.

If you do it, please post again and let us know how much you get from it.

The plug is not usually difficult to remove.

[Stevo]

Brian

Your spoz to pull that plug, its tough to get out sometimes. And yah, thats it above the starter. I made up a fitting, a 6" long 1/2 pipe nipple with a female hose connector and gate valve. The pipe will fit into the heater hoses so you can flush, back flush and then flush some more (every which way) I also take out the T-stat. You can hook up air and blow things out. Anyway you will be flushing allot to get all that green out.

What did you have to give for the G-05, I havent found it yet. I understand the MB stuff want way up. I still have a few gals of that.

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by Stevo

What did you have to give for the G-05, I havent found it yet. I understand the MB stuff want way up. I still have a few gals of that.

I can't seem to find the G-05 around here either. Had a hell of a time getting two gallons for the SD.

What gives?

[bgkast]

OK, I'll pull it out. I havent actualy bought the Coolant yet, hopefully I can find it locally.

[bgkast]

I pulled the plug and about 1 cup of coolant came out. Then I flushed by putting the garden hose in the radiator filler neck with both the block and radior drain plugs out and then again with only the block plug out. When flushing with only the block plug out some nasty brown water came out. I flushed until it was clear. I also stuck the garden hose in the heater inlet hose (the one that attaches behind the block) and disconected the heater return hose (attaches to the water pump) and gave the heater core a good flush.

No parts stores had the G-05, but I did manage to find some genuine mercedes coolant at a local auto repair shop. $40 for 2 gal though!!

[Austin85]

Too bad on not finding Zerex G-05; I am able to get it here at 2 places so far.
I got mine at Eagle AP, which is a NAPA distributor store. And I've also seen it on the shelves at Pep Boys. But a clerk at Advance told me Pep boys was discontinuing it. ????

Anyways I will be flushing my coolant out this weekend and replacing with G-05 and a bottle of NapaKool. Never did this & will be using a Prestone T- and garden hose method. per BC...

The Prestone T- Kit says to open the upper radiator hose as the drainage for old coolant. So I'm guessing that this will get out all of the old stuff including the stuff in the block....

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by Austin85

The Prestone T- Kit says to open the upper radiator hose as the drainage for old coolant. So I'm guessing that this will get out all of the old stuff including the stuff in the block....

Pay no attention to that Prestone kit as the instructions won't apply to the 617.

I urge you to remove the block plug, but, if you can't or don't wish to crawl under there, then put the Prestone "T" in the line that extends from the back of the head and goes into the heater core.

Set the temperature dial all the way up until it clicks and turn the key to the #2 position.

Remove the lower hose from the radiator.

Connect up the hose to the flush T and let it flow.

Don't bother with the upper hose because the thermostat is closed and nothing will flow from it.

Some folks like to remove the thermostat.........to get the flow from the upper hose. This is a benefit............if you want to bother with it. I never did.

Naturally, you removed the plastic plug from the bottom of the radiator to drain it.

If you want to backflush the radiator, you can leave the lower hose in place and the flush fluid will back up into the radiator because the radiator drain can't keep up with the flow from the garden hose. Be careful that you don't overflow the expansion tank. Reduce the flow from the garden hose to allow the radiator to drain..........then repeat.

[bgkast]

seeing the method I used to flush is there any other flushing I should do before adding my $40 of coolant?

[Austin85]

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Pay no attention to that Prestone kit as the instructions won't apply to the 617.

I urge you to remove the block plug, but, if you can't or don't wish to crawl under there, then put the Prestone "T" in the line that extends from the back of the head and goes into the heater core.

Set the temperature dial all the way up until it clicks and turn the key to the #2 position.

Remove the lower hose from the radiator.

Connect up the hose to the flush T and let it flow.

Don't bother with the upper hose because the thermostat is closed and nothing will flow from it.

Some folks like to remove the thermostat.........to get the flow from the upper hose. This is a benefit............if you want to bother with it. I never did.

Naturally, you removed the plastic plug from the bottom of the radiator to drain it.

If you want to backflush the radiator, you can leave the lower hose in place and the flush fluid will back up into the radiator because the radiator drain can't keep up with the flow from the garden hose. Be careful that you don't overflow the expansion tank. Reduce the flow from the garden hose to allow the radiator to drain..........then repeat.

OK so I won't follow those generic directions.
I was planning on hooking the T into the heater hose (next to the oil filter cannister) I will remove my current hose and use a same size piece of flex heater hose I have just for this withthe T in the center of it. Then replace with my current piece.
What do you mean by the #2 position??
If I flush w/o the block plug out, and open the lowwer radiator hose will I still get out all the old stuff.
I am willing to try to get to the block plug but we'll see if it moves....
It's a 19mm right?
thanks.

[bgkast]

Yep, 19mm. I'm not sure what this T is, but the hose seems to fit nicely into the heater hose. You may not even need the T.

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by Austin85

OK so I won't follow those generic directions.
I was planning on hooking the T into the heater hose (next to the oil filter cannister) I will remove my current hose and use a same size piece of flex heater hose I have just for this withthe T in the center of it. Then replace with my current piece.
What do you mean by the #2 position??
If I flush w/o the block plug out, and open the lowwer radiator hose will I still get out all the old stuff.
I am willing to try to get to the block plug but we'll see if it moves....
It's a 19mm right?
thanks.

The #2 position is the glow position..........right before the "start" position.

Yes, you'll do a very good job if you do it this way. Won't be perfect, but more than acceptable.

IIRC, it's either 19mm or 17mm.........can't remember. A socket wrench with an extension will probably be required. I don't think you can get a wrench in there. If you get a good fit and can put some muscle into the wrench, it will definitely come out. It's not like the large block plugs for the block heater.

[Jeremy5848]

As you all know and I just found out, the coolant draining from the block in the OM617 engine really makes a mess as it splashes over the frame and front suspension members. I had a hard time with several pans catching most of it so I could take it to the local disposal site.

Does anyone know if the OM603 drain will fit the older engine family? The 603 has a drain connection that is a valve rather than a simple plug. It has a hose barb so you can put a piece of 1/2 inch hose over it, loosen the valve, and drain the coolant without making a mess. It would be great if the newer drain valve could be substituted for the older plug.

The OM617 drain plug has 14x1.5mm threads (my measurements). The part number is N 007604 014110.

The OM603 drain valve is part number A 601 997 04 30. I don't know the thread size.

Jeremy

[WDBCB20]

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

As you all know and I just found out, the coolant draining from the block in the OM617 engine really makes a mess as it splashes over the frame and front suspension members. I had a hard time with several pans catching most of it so I could take it to the local disposal site.

Jeremy

For those who have a Wet/Dry Shop-Vac: Turn on vacuum, slowly loosen the drain plug to where it starts allowing coolant to drip out. Hand-tighten a touch so it stops dripping in your eyes. Take the shop vac hose (the smaller diameter one with the flexible tip) and stick it over the bolt pushing it against the block while squeezing and unscrewing the bolt with the hose. Keep turning until the bolt gets sucked away. Keep the vac hose over the hole a couple of minutes to get those last drops.

You’ll get the 1 ¼ gallon out of the bottom of the 617 block that remained after first having drained the radiator. No mess, no splash, no pans. Don’t forget to retrieve bolt and washer from the vac tank.

For the most complete old coolant and/or rinse water removal you still need to get at what remains in the heater core: Attach garden hose to hose that goes to heater core (detach from block on driver side). Attach an extension hose to the metal pipe, which comes from heater core on passenger side (detach hose which connects end of metal pipe back to block). Put extension hose in collection pan. Make sure CCU is switched to max heat or defrost. Turn on garden hose with low pressure (aux water pump and/or monovalve might not like to be forced). Run until water runs clear.