Does this sound like bent rods? (Video) - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

NC Benz · #31 07-15-2008, 09:03 AM

I hope it wasnt SALT water she drove into.

And why didnt she use... "I was trying to give the car a good wash" line?

In regards to the tranny, why not do a tranny flush at one of those drive up places? That would get rid of your water issue I would think.

pdrayton · #32 07-15-2008, 12:26 PM

Yeah, not salt water. A pond. So the "giving it a wash" line wouldn't, errr, wash.

What do you mean those drive up places for a tranny flush?

bustedbenz · #33 07-15-2008, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdrayton

Yeah, not salt water. A pond. So the "giving it a wash" line wouldn't, errr, wash.

What do you mean those drive up places for a tranny flush?

Guessing they meant something like "Jiffy Lube", et al.

pdrayton · #34 07-16-2008, 12:15 PM

Well, here's what's been done so far....

I've filled and drained the tranny 3 times - until it drained clear proper tranny fluid and not strawberry milk. I also changed the oil again, just to be sure I got all the water out.

Basically now it runs and shifts fine, when it is warmed up. When it is cold it blows white smoke that smells like fuel (it's running Biodiesel, so it smells like a BBQ). When it is warmed up though, it runs better than it did before it went swimming.

Now to get the windows to roll up....

AT least the AC still works! BUt with the windows down it's not the greatest!

I'm going to pull the center console and see if things are wet in there and see if I can dry out the window switches. When I put the window fuse back in, the back window went up half way and then quit. So there is hope...

Thanks again for all the help guys.

pdrayton · #35 07-16-2008, 03:50 PM

I started a new thread with this post, since it is sort of a separate issue, but I thought I'd post it here in case any one who is listening knows the answer.

Convenience circuit diagnostic terminal - where is it?
I've got a water logged 1992 300D 2.5 W124. The only window that is working since it got wet is the drivers side rear window. The rest of them don't do anything. The 'convenience' relay N57 in the floorboard at the back clicks when I push the window switches.

I have checked the switches, they're good, and there is good voltage at the switch terminals.

So I'm trying to get the diagnostic codes for the convenience system, and which terminal I use with the flashing LED thing I made for the engine codes.

I have the FSM, but haven't found anything in it (or on the forum actually)

Anybody know where the diagnostic codes for the convenience system can be found, or if there is some other place I should be troubleshooting?

Thanks

compress ignite · #36 07-16-2008, 06:09 PM

Arthur Dalton or

SteveBFL (He's right out your "Back Door")
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

should chime in shortly, if they would be so kind.

pdrayton · #37 07-16-2008, 09:08 PM

OK, I found the little b'tard. It's actually easy to get to - the drawing on the FSM is misleading - it looks like it's in the floorboard, but it's actually under the back seat. Pull the back seat out and there it is.

All except one of the relays is working fine. But only 1 of the windows works.... I applied power directly to the motors and the windows all work. SO I'm guessing the CCU is funky. Weird that the relays click but the windows don't roll up. I'm thinking the contacts must be fouled from the water. I tried cleaning them but it's hard to get in there

pdrayton · #38 07-30-2008, 12:32 PM

Ok, UPDATE:

So I'm getting the comfort relay from a guy on the forum.

However, the engine still seems to be missing when cold

Why is the engine shaking so much and blowing grey smoke that smells like fuel, when it is cold, but when it is warm, it is totally fine?

Remember, this engine was in the water, up to the firewall line, and could it be some electronics? It is giving error code 3 and 5 which are Air Flow sensor potentiometer and Vacuum Transducer (in the EGR loop).

I'm guessing they're probably fried from going swimming, but I'd like to be sure before I buy new parts - they're quite expensive.

And also, why would the turbo not be working? Could the EGR transducer not working make the turbo not work? Thanks

I put a video of how it is running up at
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/carfloodengine.html

It's Video 2. Video 1 was of when it woudn't start becuase the battery was messed up.

pdrayton · #39 07-30-2008, 12:34 PM

arrrgh! That camera is terrible, you can't really hear what is going on. Basically, it acts like it is missing at idle - engine shakes and there is grey smoke out the tailpipe. When you rev it up, it runs fine - smooth.

nhdoc · #40 07-30-2008, 02:21 PM

'Back about halfway through this post it was recommended you do a compression test but it doesn't look like that was every done. If not, then do one...cold then hot and report the results.

I would bet you have 1-2 low cylinders (due to hydrolocking) with bent rods. Marginally low compression when cold can become sufficient to fire when warm. This will only get worse however over time, eventually it will start burning oil and missing all the time if this is the cause. It takes VERY LITTLE water to hydrolock one of these, much less than with a gas engine. According to my rough calculations about 1/2 ounce of water in a .5L cylinder at 30:1 compression will fill the void left. That's not very much water at all.

pdrayton · #41 07-30-2008, 02:47 PM

I admit, no compression test done. Wife is supposed to be buying me the compression tester in town where she works, but hasn't done it. And I haven't pushed it because I don't want to do the test!

There is a TSB that says that rough smoking idle and poor acceleration can be the vacuum transducers, and I'm checking them now.

vstech · #42 07-30-2008, 02:55 PM

if you are going to do a compression test, you might as well replace all the glowplugs while you are at it. plan to go ahead and pull the crossover tube and clean it up as well. get new gaskets for the tube. pull all the plugs and start spinning!

nhdoc · #43 07-30-2008, 03:00 PM

You can use a cheapo one like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93644

Even if it is not 100% accurate it will tell you if you have uneven compression which I bet you do.

Denial ain't just a river to drive through, dude, I'd bite the bullet and do the correct test. Look on the bright side, if it is bent rods you might as well know now before investing a lot of time and money in other areas.

pdrayton · #44 07-30-2008, 03:12 PM

That's the tester I'm going to get.

I thought it would be easier to test via the injectors - I hate taking out glowplugs! They're a pain to get to! Anyway, I have replaced a few of them recently so wouldn't put new ones in.

Is there some benefit to testing in the glowplug holes?

I've never done a compression test - do I crank the car up until it starts or what?

Also, the prechambers on 2 of the cylinders leak - there is bubbling (not a lot) when I put liquid in the prechambers around the base of the injectors. It was like that before the car went swimming and it ran fine so I didn't bother with it.

And, last question I promise, what if the rods are bent? That's major work right? Write off the car?

nhdoc · #45 07-30-2008, 03:26 PM

Pull all of the GPs. Insert compression test fitting into GP #1 hole and tighten all connections to gauge. Make sure the check valve points to the engine (It looks like the tire valve and prevents the compression from leaking back out of the gauge hose). Use a remote starter swtich or jumper at the starter to crank (not start) the engine. This will prevent fuel from being sprayed out the other GP holes which would happen if you crank with the key.

Crank it over 8-10 times and read the gauge. Repeat for remaining cylinders. It is fine to test them at the GPs. Do it once with the engine cold and repeat warm if you want to confirm and changes. I'll bet you will see a couple down under 200 PSI though.

If so you might be able to get away with replacing only the connecting rods unless you drive it more and do more damage. The rods can bend a couple of different ways but they can damage the cylinders since the piston will no longer go in its designed path. Once that happens you would need more major work.

I'd do the test and if you have a couple of low cylinders you can warm it up so it runs good and trade it in to the nearest used car dealer

Then he'll sell it on ebay and we'll respond to the new owner's list of questions all over again. It's like the circle of life.