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OK! I'm doing one of the 603 Big jobs need help! Please!!!
Alright, my IP's coming off. I ruined the original dried out oil seal O-ring on my 603 and I'm going to be replacing it. But this is a little scary for me since I've never done it before on a MB diesel. I did a Ford once and it was a piece of cake. This may be easy too but I'm nervous.
Let me start with a question. I replaced the vacuum pump a while back and removed the timing basket. Does that need to be replaced while I do the IP job? From reading the FSM and here on the forum, here's the route I'm guessing the job is going to take. Let me know if I'm missing anything: -hand crank to 15 degrees above TDC compression stroke -Insert special Injection Pump locking pin (see Link) MB part 601 589 05 21 00 -Remove Vacuum Pump -Remove nut on timing gear -Remove soft fuel lines and linkage on IP -Remove hard fuel delivery lines -Remove rear IP bolt -Remove 3 front IP bolts -Remove IP Replace in opposite order. The things I'm fuzzy on are the timing gear and timing basket and how the gear/sprocket connects to the IP's camshaft. And what in the world is the timing basket for? Also, do I need to do anything with the 8mm timing adjusting helper bolt? does it need to come out? Anything that'd be useful to do while I've got the IP out? I'm planning on replacing the Delivery Valve O-rings and possibly the shut-off valve O-ring. Anything else that I may want to do? Also, I'll be putting the ALDA back on. It is cool for a little quicker pedal response but if anything it seems to slow down later response of the acceleration. Also, black smoke is cool but maybe more so on a Cummins than on a little diesel car. But I will say when people are being rude on the interstate it sure is fun to get in front of them with a little W.O.T. acceleration and a nice thick cloud of black fog!! Got to love Diesels Something to be proud of I think! If I ever go back to gas, I'll sure miss the sound, smell, turbo feel, etc. But man is it tiring at times keeping an old Diesel up. All the little things.
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. Last edited by 777funk; 07-14-2008 at 07:55 PM. |
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Or...
Am I better off taking it in? I read (I think Sixto on this forum) that the camshaft's timing chain gear doesn't have to come off. I think I read in the FSM that it should come off. I'm getting a little cautious about this now. I'm afraid that if the timing chain moves a tooth or two I could create a disaster. What happens to the Pump Timing device sprocket when the pump is removed. Does anyone have any pictures of the pump being removed. I wish I could see it or at least know a good deal more before I get in there without 100% knowing what I'm doing.
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
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"Basket"
It keeps the timing device from flailing around.(And Yes It's a good idea to
temporarily replace it whilst you work) You Will Get all kinds of instructions as soon as they see your post. I'd replace ALL the IP rubber seals while you've got it off(MUCH,MUCH easier.) #s 122,125,222,225 (and #180 the gasket for the lift pump) You need to visit GSXR's website! http://www.w124performance.com/images/ AND: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 07-15-2008 at 12:37 AM. |
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Cool I will try to replace that stuff while I'm in there.
Anyone know where to buy those parts? I've read Viton is the best for longevity when replacing delivery valve o-rings. Any idea where to get those?
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
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rubber IP seals
This is a more extensive list of Bosch Service centers:
http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ImageMapResults/ImageMapResults.htm?st=MO&typ=DF&cntry=USA And member Jadavis @ www.fryerpower.com will fix you up with Viton.(delivery valve seals,return lines ,Etc.)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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Bump
For the Professional experts
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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By the way I will try to document this with photos as I perform this job. Hopefully I will do it right! I talked with my MB dealer mechanic again (Paul @ Legend Automotive in Columbia MO). He advised putting the timing basket back on and walked me through a few of the steps. Hopefully it'll be something that I can do just once. I don't want to take the IP out after I get it installed. The splines lining up is another thing I'm curious of. I've got the IP shaft locking pin on it's way. But I've never done this so there's a lot of unknown that I'm getting into.
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
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To be clear, I'm not a professional nor an expert. Just BTDT and the car ran no worse for the effort.
You don't have to replace the vacuum pump basket. In fact you can't fit the basket and dam gasket that comes with the vacuum pump. There's a separate outline gasket that allows you to retain the basket. If you're worried about the timer, zip tie the chain to the timer. The timer itself has nowhere to go. It's too big to go anywhere you can't reach in with your fingers and retrieve it. Tying it to the chain is a precaution so you don't lose IP timing. Note that the bolt on the IP timer is a left hand thread - CW to loosen, CCW to tighten. Add remove cruise control actuator to your list. The cruise control actuator is right behind the IP. Keep a stick or magnet on the nuts at the ends of the long IP bolts. If one falls into the crevice between the AC compressor and the block, you might never fish it out without pulling the compressor. It's not a regular nut, either. It's a square piece that fits into slots in the IP case. Keep an eye on the timing adjustment turnbuckle as you extract the IP so you know how it goes back. Most likely it will stay on the block and fall onto the AC compressor when you clean that area. I got all the IP sealing bits from the MB dealer. Of course nothing was in stock. There's a different side gasket for brass and aluminum covers. I don't think it's indexed to VIN. You don't need #228. That goes between the rear and main case of the IP. You really don't want to go that far into the IP. I would add #180 although it's really difficult to set the lift pump against cam spring pressure with the timing lock in place. Don't forget the plastic fuel line washers. Consider a shim between the ALDA and IP. A shim has the same effect as turning the setscrew for more power. One of the washers for the plastic fuel lines is of the right ID and OD. You just have to sand/file it down to the right thickness. gsxr has some shim specs. Sixto 87 300D |
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Forgot to mention - when you refit the IP, try to get it so the long bolts are centered in the attachment slots. That way you maximize adjustment range.
Sixto 87 300D |
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Thanks! This will be fun. Hopefully nothing goes wrong!
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
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Quote:
dieselgiant has a web site where its listed as a kit including the copper crush washers. http://www.dieselgiant.com/fueldeliveryanddieselinjectionrelated.htm I got my seals from jadavis I buy 1/8" Viton hose from McMaster Carr. you won't have to replace it for as long as you own the car! good luck with the project, a good running 603 deserves it! DDH
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! Last edited by dieseldiehard; 07-15-2008 at 11:11 AM. |
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Are those usually the last words we hear before a video ends up on Americas Funniest Home Videos? Seriously..... Good luck on your project. I am sure a good bunch of us will look forward to hearing how it goes! And PICTURES please!!!
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NC Benz Fuquay-Varina, NC 1979 300D 1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles 1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car) OBK #31 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000 1973 19' SeaRay with 115 Mercury TOWER OF POWER! Club Car Golf Cart 36V Ex toys: 1967 Mustang 289 (First Car) Fiat 124TC 1975 Honda CVCC 1980 Audi 5000 Turbo |
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Quote:
Anyways, here's Dave's list of IP seals. 601-238-07-80 Vacuum pump gasket to block 013-997-81-48 I/P ELR O-ring 001-074-43-80 I/P rear governor gasket 004-997-46-40 I/P bottom cover O-ring 001-074-11-80 I/P side plate gasket 012-997-83-48 I/P to block O-ring 010-997-56-48 I/P vacuum shutoff valve O-ring 009-997-81-48 I/P shutoff lever O-ring and other parts I ordered: 000-091-17-80 lift pump gasket 004-997-45-40 copper washers (x6) 617 589 01 09 00 Splined socket HAZET Brand to replace the Sir Tools in the below picture.
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. Last edited by 777funk; 07-15-2008 at 01:57 PM. |
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Quote:
Where do you get these?
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
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I get them from Phil.
Sixto 87 300D |
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