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  #1  
Old 07-14-2008, 03:03 PM
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OK! I'm doing one of the 603 Big jobs need help! Please!!!

Alright, my IP's coming off. I ruined the original dried out oil seal O-ring on my 603 and I'm going to be replacing it. But this is a little scary for me since I've never done it before on a MB diesel. I did a Ford once and it was a piece of cake. This may be easy too but I'm nervous.

Let me start with a question. I replaced the vacuum pump a while back and removed the timing basket. Does that need to be replaced while I do the IP job?

From reading the FSM and here on the forum, here's the route I'm guessing the job is going to take. Let me know if I'm missing anything:

-hand crank to 15 degrees above TDC compression stroke
-Insert special Injection Pump locking pin (see Link) MB part 601 589 05 21 00
-Remove Vacuum Pump
-Remove nut on timing gear
-Remove soft fuel lines and linkage on IP
-Remove hard fuel delivery lines
-Remove rear IP bolt
-Remove 3 front IP bolts
-Remove IP

Replace in opposite order.

The things I'm fuzzy on are the timing gear and timing basket and how the gear/sprocket connects to the IP's camshaft. And what in the world is the timing basket for? Also, do I need to do anything with the 8mm timing adjusting helper bolt? does it need to come out?

Anything that'd be useful to do while I've got the IP out? I'm planning on replacing the Delivery Valve O-rings and possibly the shut-off valve O-ring. Anything else that I may want to do? Also, I'll be putting the ALDA back on. It is cool for a little quicker pedal response but if anything it seems to slow down later response of the acceleration. Also, black smoke is cool but maybe more so on a Cummins than on a little diesel car. But I will say when people are being rude on the interstate it sure is fun to get in front of them with a little W.O.T. acceleration and a nice thick cloud of black fog!! Got to love Diesels Something to be proud of I think! If I ever go back to gas, I'll sure miss the sound, smell, turbo feel, etc. But man is it tiring at times keeping an old Diesel up. All the little things.

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-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
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-300d Turbo '84 180k
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Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

Last edited by 777funk; 07-14-2008 at 07:55 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-14-2008, 04:17 PM
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Or...

Am I better off taking it in? I read (I think Sixto on this forum) that the camshaft's timing chain gear doesn't have to come off. I think I read in the FSM that it should come off. I'm getting a little cautious about this now. I'm afraid that if the timing chain moves a tooth or two I could create a disaster.

What happens to the Pump Timing device sprocket when the pump is removed. Does anyone have any pictures of the pump being removed. I wish I could see it or at least know a good deal more before I get in there without 100% knowing what I'm doing.
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-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2008, 05:44 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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"Basket"

It keeps the timing device from flailing around.(And Yes It's a good idea to
temporarily replace it whilst you work)

You Will Get all kinds of instructions as soon as they see your post.

I'd replace ALL the IP rubber seals while you've got it off(MUCH,MUCH easier.)

#s 122,125,222,225 (and #180 the gasket for the lift pump)

You need to visit GSXR's website!
http://www.w124performance.com/images/
AND:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/
Attached Thumbnails
OK! I'm doing one of the 603 Big jobs need help! Please!!!-screenhunter_01-jul.-14-17.42.gif  
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Last edited by compress ignite; 07-15-2008 at 12:37 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2008, 05:55 PM
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Cool I will try to replace that stuff while I'm in there.

Anyone know where to buy those parts? I've read Viton is the best for longevity when replacing delivery valve o-rings. Any idea where to get those?
__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2008, 06:12 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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rubber IP seals

This is a more extensive list of Bosch Service centers:

http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ImageMapResults/ImageMapResults.htm?st=MO&typ=DF&cntry=USA

And member Jadavis @ www.fryerpower.com

will fix you up with Viton.(delivery valve seals,return lines ,Etc.)
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2008, 07:28 PM
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Bump

For the Professional experts
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2008, 07:59 PM
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By the way I will try to document this with photos as I perform this job. Hopefully I will do it right! I talked with my MB dealer mechanic again (Paul @ Legend Automotive in Columbia MO). He advised putting the timing basket back on and walked me through a few of the steps. Hopefully it'll be something that I can do just once. I don't want to take the IP out after I get it installed. The splines lining up is another thing I'm curious of. I've got the IP shaft locking pin on it's way. But I've never done this so there's a lot of unknown that I'm getting into.
__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #8  
Old 07-14-2008, 08:21 PM
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To be clear, I'm not a professional nor an expert. Just BTDT and the car ran no worse for the effort.

You don't have to replace the vacuum pump basket. In fact you can't fit the basket and dam gasket that comes with the vacuum pump. There's a separate outline gasket that allows you to retain the basket.

If you're worried about the timer, zip tie the chain to the timer. The timer itself has nowhere to go. It's too big to go anywhere you can't reach in with your fingers and retrieve it. Tying it to the chain is a precaution so you don't lose IP timing.

Note that the bolt on the IP timer is a left hand thread - CW to loosen, CCW to tighten.

Add remove cruise control actuator to your list. The cruise control actuator is right behind the IP.

Keep a stick or magnet on the nuts at the ends of the long IP bolts. If one falls into the crevice between the AC compressor and the block, you might never fish it out without pulling the compressor. It's not a regular nut, either. It's a square piece that fits into slots in the IP case.

Keep an eye on the timing adjustment turnbuckle as you extract the IP so you know how it goes back. Most likely it will stay on the block and fall onto the AC compressor when you clean that area.

I got all the IP sealing bits from the MB dealer. Of course nothing was in stock. There's a different side gasket for brass and aluminum covers. I don't think it's indexed to VIN. You don't need #228. That goes between the rear and main case of the IP. You really don't want to go that far into the IP. I would add #180 although it's really difficult to set the lift pump against cam spring pressure with the timing lock in place. Don't forget the plastic fuel line washers.

Consider a shim between the ALDA and IP. A shim has the same effect as turning the setscrew for more power. One of the washers for the plastic fuel lines is of the right ID and OD. You just have to sand/file it down to the right thickness. gsxr has some shim specs.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #9  
Old 07-14-2008, 08:23 PM
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Forgot to mention - when you refit the IP, try to get it so the long bolts are centered in the attachment slots. That way you maximize adjustment range.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #10  
Old 07-14-2008, 11:34 PM
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Thanks! This will be fun. Hopefully nothing goes wrong!
__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk View Post
Cool I will try to replace that stuff while I'm in there.

Anyone know where to buy those parts? I've read Viton is the best for longevity when replacing delivery valve o-rings. Any idea where to get those?
I suggest getting Viton O-rings for the delivery nozzles as well as Viton return lines (1/8 in hose) for the injectors.
dieselgiant has a web site where its listed as a kit including the copper crush washers. http://www.dieselgiant.com/fueldeliveryanddieselinjectionrelated.htm

I got my seals from jadavis
I buy 1/8" Viton hose from McMaster Carr. you won't have to replace it for as long as you own the car!
good luck with the project, a good running 603 deserves it!
DDH
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Last edited by dieseldiehard; 07-15-2008 at 11:11 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2008, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk View Post
Thanks! This will be fun. Hopefully nothing goes wrong!

Are those usually the last words we hear before a video ends up on Americas Funniest Home Videos?

Seriously..... Good luck on your project. I am sure a good bunch of us will look forward to hearing how it goes! And PICTURES please!!!
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2008, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard View Post
I suggest getting Viton O-rings for the delivery nozzles....

I got my seals from jadavis
I buy 1/8" Viton hose from McMaster Carr. you won't have to replace it for as long as you own the car!
good luck with the project, a good running 603 deserves it!
DDH
I think this is great advice. I used Viton with my Ford IDI a while back. I've got the Viton ordered from JADavis now. Compress Ignite mentioned this as well. Hey why do the job more than once if you can avoid it, right! $2 or so more for the right viton part is Well worth it. I've read that the Buna shouldn't leak now that we're past the change from Old diesel to ULSD but I think Viton will be better in the long run. Also, Dave (GSXR) sent me this parts list with MB numbers. I got most of them from Rusty's Buy MB parts for around $30 for all of the seals. The HAZET brand Splined socket was cheap with them too (around $40). I don't recommend the 'Sir Tools' brand spline socket. See my photo of mine (eBay purchase a couple years back) as to why! Hint (look close and you'll see the teeth are twisted and are now angled-think 40 tooth carbide saw blade! Yikes) And I paid around the same price for this one as I paid today for the real HAZET MB part number... Bummer!

Anyways, here's Dave's list of IP seals.
601-238-07-80 Vacuum pump gasket to block
013-997-81-48 I/P ELR O-ring
001-074-43-80 I/P rear governor gasket
004-997-46-40 I/P bottom cover O-ring
001-074-11-80 I/P side plate gasket
012-997-83-48 I/P to block O-ring
010-997-56-48 I/P vacuum shutoff valve O-ring
009-997-81-48 I/P shutoff lever O-ring
and other parts I ordered:
000-091-17-80 lift pump gasket
004-997-45-40 copper washers (x6)

617 589 01 09 00 Splined socket HAZET Brand to replace the Sir Tools in the below picture.
Attached Thumbnails
OK! I'm doing one of the 603 Big jobs need help! Please!!!-splined-socket-may-twisted.jpg  
__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

Last edited by 777funk; 07-15-2008 at 01:57 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2008, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
One of the washers for the plastic fuel lines is of the right ID and OD. You just have to sand/file it down to the right thickness. gsxr has some shim specs.

Sixto
87 300D
Sixto, are you talking about the metal washers to the fuel lines that go between the Fuel Filter and IP with the Banjo ends on them?

Where do you get these?
__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2008, 11:48 PM
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I get them from Phil.

Sixto
87 300D

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