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#1
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Mint desel: kept in a family cousins barn for 10+ years. Should I buy it?
I've recently been offer a Mercedes 300cd by my second cousin for about $500. I'm not sure the year or the mileage but I'm going to guess it's from the early 80's and that the mileage is very low. He's a farmer and has a huge collection of vintage autos so he knows a thing or to about cars and diesel engines. But there are a few issues I'm worried about. One, its has been stored in a barn (a barn that is used weekly) for over 10 to 15 years, but the car was a strong runner before parked. The barn is located in a dry state so rust and interior damage shouldn't be to big of an issue. Secondly, the car is located some 400 miles away from my house, and since I'm not going to pay to have it transported I'd have to drive it home. Laslty, I'd like your feedback in regards to what I'd have to replace or check before it'd be capable of a long journey. Obviously I'd have to drain and refill all of the fluids and probably replace the tires, but what esle. Would I have to repack the bearings? Is that possible? Would I have to adjust the valve? Replace the fuel filter? How much damage would the diesel have done to the injectors over a long period of time? I've always wanted a Mercedes diesel and this looks like a great chance to get one that is mint for almost nothing, and I'd like your opinion as to what I should do. Anyones help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by blackbirdc70; 07-15-2008 at 10:53 PM. |
#2
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You'll need a battery more than likely and will want to check the IM and air cleaner etc for mice and/or nesting material before turning the key the first time.
I'd probably set up a temp fuel supply in the engine compartment with fresh fuel to help determine if it will run or not and then trouble shoot from there.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#3
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I wouldn't want to drive on close to original tires, especially 400 miles at high way speeds.
Sure, its mint but a car sitting for years can wreck havoc on every system in the car. |
#4
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Rubber does dry rot, so check all the fuel lines, vacuum connecters, half shaft boots, etc. Oil seals also tend to shrink, so the tranny may not shift properly, and the A/C may need to be reworked.
If it starts and runs, half the battle is over, and sounds like you got a nice, classic ride.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#5
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You can divide the task into two parts (a) starting the engine for the first time and (b) driving home. For (a) make sure the air intake is clear of debris -- hay, mice, dirt, etc. Tap the air filter on a hard surface (floor) or blow it out with compressed air so that it is reasonably clean. Borrow a good battery. Connect it and turn on the key to see if the dash lights will come on -- don't try to start the engine yet. Look for smoke. See if the glow plug light will come on for a few seconds and then turn off. After 30 seconds, do you hear a click from the engine compartment? That is the glow plug relay timing out.
Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines and stick them in a container (a quart is enough) of clean fresh diesel. Pump with the manual pump to get fuel to move through the filters (which should be OK) and back to the fuel supply. The fuel pre-filter should be made of transparent plastic so you can look inside for dirt. Check for coolant in the radiator by removing the cap on the expansion tank. Check the engine oil on the dipstick. As long as there is oil in the engine you can see if the engine will start and run for a couple of minutes. With the air passages clean, new fuel available, and a good electrical system, you are ready to crank the engine. Turn on the ignition, let the glow plugs go this first time for the full 30 seconds until the relay clicks off and then crank. You may need to use a little throttle but not much and the engine should start. Let it idle while you do a quick check for oil leaks of the spurting kind that would be due to a broken oil line. If the engine seems to be running properly, check for fluid in the transmission using the dipstick with the engine at idle. If the tranny has fluid, you can see if the car will move on its own. Try the full range of PRNDL or whatever the quadrant has on it. If the car will move, you're halfway home (so to speak). Part (b) Let the engine oil warm up a bit and then shut down the engine. Change the oil and filter. Change both fuel filters. Consider draining the fuel tank or at least pull a sample to see what condition the fuel is in, check for water in the bottom of the tank, etc. Change the transmission fluid and filter. Change the coolant. Check the tires and replace if badly cracked, age-hardened, etc. Check the brakes and replace the brake fluid. What did I miss, guys? Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#6
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There is a possiblity that he has started it up once every year, but I can't be sure. Most of the cars in his collection see a little road time once and awhile. If its been sitting for years without the occasional start up and drive the rubber seals are probably rotted; that probably goes for everything rubber. I'll have to contact him and ask a form questions after he's had a chance to look at it.
I also been informed of another Mercedes diesel (1980's mercedes 300d) that is in his collection. It has been sitting since 2002, since it was his fathers car he is a little hesitant to sell it. Would this be a better choice if he agrees to sell it? Both are in very good shape. |
#7
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I think I'd pull a car trailer to get it. Haul it home and then go to work on her. Taking a chance that a 15 year stored car will be road worthy right out of the barn is asking an awful lot. You'll be lucky IF there is any wiring left. Unless there were barn cats kept the critters away.
Have you seen the car? One man's Jewel is another lump of coal. If it has been properly stored then it's probably a good deal, but there are a lot of question you cannot answer 400 miles away.
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1986 Euro 500SEC "RUF" 9:1CR, "Rose" 1985 Euro 500SEC Cabriolet AMG Widebody 1982 Euro 500SEL "Blue" 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie", 2012 Queensland Red Heeler "Squeak" Best dogs I've ever had. |
#8
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I'd say grab both! All you would need not is the wagon, and you will have a sampling of the w123 diesel lineup w/the 5 cylinder engine.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#9
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Thanks Jeremy for the thorough response. Thats sounds pretty managable.
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#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Quote:
Why would somebody take a perfectly good, fine car like that and stick it in a barn to sit for 15 years?
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1995 E300 200k 1981 300GD unknown km |
#12
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Quote:
Uhaul may be your new friend, unless you have a buddy with a truck and trailer, or want to spend a week or so 400 miles from home. Soooo many things can go wrong, but if you're a gamblin' man.
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k 1980 240D Stick China 188k 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! |
#13
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The man has so many cars and he has no time to drive them. He has taken several running packards and chevrolets and just parked them in metal quonsets. He's been collecting these cars for years. It's sad but at least there are protected from the elements.
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#14
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I want a Packard!
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#15
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If you're near new england and the body's not rusted out I will buy it for $500 (Seriously)
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
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