The can o'worms has been opened. Having done the right axle I pulled the left side axle with minimal hassle and noticed that the rear stabilizer link boot was broken and the balljoint was full of grit.
Ordered a set from Napa and returned to pull the rotors and lo and behold , they are totally stuck with rust to the hub.
I backed off the adjusters, wire brushed and scratched out what rust I could and squirted some loose juice in the lug holes and inner and outer hub areas.
I then proceeded to pound on the rotor hub rim and face with a pair of small sledges. Nada.
My question is, can I safely heat up the rotor hub area or will the hi temp boil out the wheel bearing grease and, melt any seals, damage the rotor or what?
Any other ideas?

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

You can heat up the rotor but be advised you will have to buy a new rotor, wheel bearings and seals. You will warp the rotor, melt out all the grease and mess up the bearings and melt the wheel bearing seal.

You could try hitting the center of the rotor where the wheel bearings is all the way around

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Yes, I figured that would be the case. I have been pounding all over, I even stuck a socket into the axle hole up against the hub and pounded on that. No go.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

If you can afford to buy all those parts plus new brake pads then go ahead and heat it. If you cant then I would keep hitting at the center of the rotor with a 3lb hammer and see if you can jar it loose

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

I am a DIY, but when I have a stuck rotor, I put a 2x4 across the face of the hub, and with two c-clamps I apply pressure evenly across the "puller" as iItighten the clamps. I apply a couple of whacks of the hammer and tighten the clamps alternately until it falls off.

Be careful, it will jump off the car when it finally cuts loose! Sometimes I put 3 lug bolts back in and place the 2x4 against the bolts instead of the hub. This way, when it pops loose, the rotor will stay on the hub.

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02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

thats a good way too

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Sometimes, if the rotor backing plate prevents me from placing my c-clamp on the rotor, I stick a piece of hard steel (steel chisel) into a vent slot of the rotor, and hook the c-clamp over the added appendage.

Wear eye-protection in case the steel snaps! I've never broken anything, but the pressure can get pretty high. Moisten everything around the hub with WD40 or PB Blaster and let it sit a while before starting. Tighen it in stages, take your time, tap it frequently with the hammer. Leave it in "traction" for a while if it is stubborn and the pressure is cracking the 2x4. It will eventually give in.

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02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

The rotors have been soaking overnight and I have some hardwood chunks. I will give it a try.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Remember, for front rotors, you will need to insert three lug bolts for the 2x4 to press against. You can't press against the grease cap!

I just used this method again last night to replace the front rotors on my S500. It worked like a charm once again!

It is a little awkward holding the board against the hub and positioning the two c-clamps, but it can be accomplished without too much trouble.

Good Luck! You can do it!

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02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

Is your parking brake engaged or stuck?

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

I started to rig speace's c-clamp jig and had a little difficulty getting it set right so just for kicks I tried some more whacks on the rotor again but this time holding the maple block I was going to use in the jig directly against the rotor and hitting it and the rotor popped right off!
I loosejuiced the other side and used the same procedure only it took about 20 whacks more since I had not yet started pounding on it like I had on the drivers side.
This car just needs a little patience in dis- and re-assembly and it yields good results, It really is meant to be repaired unlike most newer vehicles.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Whenever I get a stubbern rear rotor I just hit the hub with a little heat, than put a block of wood against it and nail it with the mini sledge. Pops right off, should take all of 3 minutes. If your going to replace it skip the wood and just nail it. I have found short scraps of oak flooring work great, as they are smal and about the right size.

You won't get it hot enough with the torch to hurt anything, just a little heat you don't need to go nuts.

Apply some never seize to the back of the rotor where it sits on the hub...works pretty good.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200