Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-19-2008, 12:22 PM
fruitcakesa's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,143
Rear rotors rusted to hub

The can o'worms has been opened. Having done the right axle I pulled the left side axle with minimal hassle and noticed that the rear stabilizer link boot was broken and the balljoint was full of grit.
Ordered a set from Napa and returned to pull the rotors and lo and behold , they are totally stuck with rust to the hub.
I backed off the adjusters, wire brushed and scratched out what rust I could and squirted some loose juice in the lug holes and inner and outer hub areas.
I then proceeded to pound on the rotor hub rim and face with a pair of small sledges. Nada.
My question is, can I safely heat up the rotor hub area or will the hi temp boil out the wheel bearing grease and, melt any seals, damage the rotor or what?
Any other ideas?

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-19-2008, 12:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
You can heat up the rotor but be advised you will have to buy a new rotor, wheel bearings and seals. You will warp the rotor, melt out all the grease and mess up the bearings and melt the wheel bearing seal.

You could try hitting the center of the rotor where the wheel bearings is all the way around
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Last edited by Oracle12345; 07-19-2008 at 12:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-19-2008, 12:31 PM
fruitcakesa's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,143
Yes, I figured that would be the case. I have been pounding all over, I even stuck a socket into the axle hole up against the hub and pounded on that. No go.
__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-19-2008, 12:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
If you can afford to buy all those parts plus new brake pads then go ahead and heat it. If you cant then I would keep hitting at the center of the rotor with a 3lb hammer and see if you can jar it loose
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-19-2008, 01:47 PM
speace's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 371
I am a DIY, but when I have a stuck rotor, I put a 2x4 across the face of the hub, and with two c-clamps I apply pressure evenly across the "puller" as iItighten the clamps. I apply a couple of whacks of the hammer and tighten the clamps alternately until it falls off.

Be careful, it will jump off the car when it finally cuts loose! Sometimes I put 3 lug bolts back in and place the 2x4 against the bolts instead of the hub. This way, when it pops loose, the rotor will stay on the hub.
__________________
02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)

Last edited by speace; 07-19-2008 at 02:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-19-2008, 01:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by speace View Post
I am a DIY, but when I have a stuck rotor, I put a 2x4 across the face of the hub, and with two c-clamps I apply pressure evenly across the "puller" as iItighten the clamps. I apply a couple of whacks of the hammer and tighten the clmps alternately until it falls off.

Be careful, it will jump off the car when it finally cuts loose! Sometimes I put 3 lug bolts back in and place the 2x4 against the bolts instead of the hub. This way, when it pops loose, the rotor will stay on the hub.
thats a good way too
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-19-2008, 02:13 PM
speace's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 371
Sometimes, if the rotor backing plate prevents me from placing my c-clamp on the rotor, I stick a piece of hard steel (steel chisel) into a vent slot of the rotor, and hook the c-clamp over the added appendage.

Wear eye-protection in case the steel snaps! I've never broken anything, but the pressure can get pretty high. Moisten everything around the hub with WD40 or PB Blaster and let it sit a while before starting. Tighen it in stages, take your time, tap it frequently with the hammer. Leave it in "traction" for a while if it is stubborn and the pressure is cracking the 2x4. It will eventually give in.
__________________
02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-21-2008, 06:18 PM
fruitcakesa's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,143
The rotors have been soaking overnight and I have some hardwood chunks. I will give it a try.
__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-21-2008, 06:27 PM
speace's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 371
Remember, for front rotors, you will need to insert three lug bolts for the 2x4 to press against. You can't press against the grease cap!

I just used this method again last night to replace the front rotors on my S500. It worked like a charm once again!

It is a little awkward holding the board against the hub and positioning the two c-clamps, but it can be accomplished without too much trouble.

Good Luck! You can do it!
__________________
02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-21-2008, 06:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
Is your parking brake engaged or stuck?
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-21-2008, 09:09 PM
fruitcakesa's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,143
I started to rig speace's c-clamp jig and had a little difficulty getting it set right so just for kicks I tried some more whacks on the rotor again but this time holding the maple block I was going to use in the jig directly against the rotor and hitting it and the rotor popped right off!
I loosejuiced the other side and used the same procedure only it took about 20 whacks more since I had not yet started pounding on it like I had on the drivers side.
This car just needs a little patience in dis- and re-assembly and it yields good results, It really is meant to be repaired unlike most newer vehicles.
__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-21-2008, 09:15 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,307
Whenever I get a stubbern rear rotor I just hit the hub with a little heat, than put a block of wood against it and nail it with the mini sledge. Pops right off, should take all of 3 minutes. If your going to replace it skip the wood and just nail it. I have found short scraps of oak flooring work great, as they are smal and about the right size.

You won't get it hot enough with the torch to hurt anything, just a little heat you don't need to go nuts.

Apply some never seize to the back of the rotor where it sits on the hub...works pretty good.

__________________
2020 GMC Sierra Denali
2007 Tiara 3200
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page