1981 300 SD.

Let me start by saying that although many of you would tackle these issues with ease, I do not have the experience to feel confident enough to do the work on my own. I don't mind getting dirty, but I get easily frustrated when things don't go as as predicted and I have a habit of getting in over my head.

I have the car at the mechanics because I know that it needs brakes. I made a list of other items I wanted him to look at. Here's the list, as I remember it from our phone conversation:

Brakes all around. Needs one rotor and one disc as well as the pads and shoes. $380 parts, $200 labor.

Emergency brake. Needs the two cables that run under the car. Parts $250, Labor $150.

Suspension in general. The mechanic claims there is an after market kit that contains all of the bushings, trailing arms, sub-frame mounts, etc. that would take care of the suspension from front to back. Parts $800 (He claims it would be over $3K from MB.) Labor $400

There are some other items that I am definitely going to wait on such as some non-readily visible rust issues and A/C maintenance. I asked for him to check the drive line, particularly the flex discs as well as the rear axle boots, C.V. joints and motor mounts. He said they all looked fine.

I'm leaning towards having him do the brakes so I can get the car back on the road and then wait and see on the rest. My wife is quick to remind me that I only paid $2800 for the whole car a couple of years ago. Her answer is "Just buy another instead of repairing this one."

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

One disc, one rotor does not make sense. They are the same thing.

Brakes are super easy. I helped my 5 year old do mine.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearBrakes

The price on the cables seems kind of high. Suspension work makes sense for me to get someone else to do it. If you don't have a lift or the proper tools life can be tough.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

You have an 81 Mercedes with rust. Therefore I would only do the absolute minimum to keep the car running in a safe condition. I think any young family man who can't do the brakes with ease and a minimum of tools, a jack and car stands should seriously consider getting a car that doesn't need much work. These cars just cost too much to take them to a shop for major repair work. Parts are not bad when you do the work yourself. Help is as easy to find as the forum is easy to navigate. But you have to look and search. Check the prices your Indy gave you on this job with the prices shown here on the forum by "Fastlane" You can check the prices in an instant. I think in your case your wife probably is correct. Get a different car.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Brakes all around. Needs one rotor and one disc as well as the pads and shoes. $380 parts, $200 labor.

Brake shoes?

All I ever replaced on my W126 was rotors and pads..look up the price on these, the pads are around $20-30 per wheel, look up the price of rotors, that sounds way too high.

Emergency brake. Needs the two cables that run under the car. Parts $250, Labor $150.

Maybe you just need the existing cable tightened? (get a 2nd opinion)

The mechanic claims there is an after market kit that contains all of the bushings, trailing arms, sub-frame mounts, etc. that would take care of the suspension from front to back. Parts $800 (He claims it would be over $3K from MB.) Labor $400

I have never heard of such a kit, not saying that one doesn't exist. Without knowing what is included in this kit, it may be a total ripoff or a great deal. It sounds like a scam, imo, and I am not sure of that, it just sounds like a scam.

Get a 2nd opinion and see what he says...good luck.

You have an 81 Mercedes with rust.

I too was going to mention this when I read that your car is somewhat rusty.

I would really reconsider sinking all that money into it..do u have a pic of it?

I'll work on getting pics posted once I get the car back.

After seeing the tutorial posted by VWBUGE, maybe I'll give it a try. I hate to be shown up by a 5 year old.

I can get all 4 rotors for $150 and brake caliper rebuild kits for $15 each with pads for around $25 total for all four wheels.

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

If you want to start to learn, the brakes would be a perfect place to start. They are a really simple design. Once you finish you will have more confidence in yourself to do other things. You will spend less on your car to maintain it and you will have pride in ownership.

Don't worry, whatever you try to fix, someone here has fixed it before and will give you sound advice. If you can post pics it is a plus.

Do a little more reading and browsing and searching and the answers will come to you.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

The mechanic is probably talking about the parking brake shoes, those are usualy gone. If you want a parking brake you need to replace them.

You need brakes either way, if the car was rough I would just go to Autozoo or Napa and get the cheapest rotors and pads they offer. Slap them on and bleed it, good enough. As long as a caliper isn't stuck their is no need to rebuild them.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Lets see.... I had every ball joint, all the various bushing, tie rods (etc, all suspension Rubber both sides of front) and both motor mounts (pretty much every darn thing in that front end) done, the front Flex disc replaced, All brakes done, with new pads and the calipers cleaned and both front Calipers were rebuilt (they were dragging but no Rotors needed), AC charged and the Valves set (new gasket) and timing chain inspected and the bill came to $1700 parts and labor. There is probably some stuff I forgot too. He also looked over everything else and looked for stuff to do.

Hefty but it was quick and right. He doesn't use anything but good parts either. So I would have to say your price is higher. However, sometimes that depends on where you live.

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1983 300D-Turbo - Deep Blue w Palomino MB Tex (total loss in fire 1/5/09 RIP)
1995 E320 W124 Polar White/Grey Mushroom MB Tex
2005 F150 Supercrew - Arizona Beige - Lear topper
1985 Piaggio Vespa T5 - Black and Chrome

www.cphilip.com

Brake shoes for the e-brake... these are just a bit more painful to replace than the rotors / pads.

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1985 MBZ 300DT
1969 MBZ 220d
1984 MBZ 300TDT
1981 VW Vanagon