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  #31  
Old 05-31-2017, 04:09 PM
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The locking tool preserves the relationship of IP and timing chain so there shouldn't be any change. Most of us don't need more variables so best to install the IP, get the engine running reliably, then tweak IP timing if necessary. The locking tool makes this the case with any IP.

Sixto
83 300SD can be yours
98 E320 wagon

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  #32  
Old 05-31-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
The locking tool preserves the relationship of IP and timing chain so there shouldn't be any change. Most of us don't need more variables so best to install the IP, get the engine running reliably, then tweak IP timing if necessary. The locking tool makes this the case with any IP.

Sixto
83 300SD can be yours
98 E320 wagon


So if you can lock in the timing with the locking tool, and install it with the engine at 14-15* BTDC, what's the point of the A-B light?
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  #33  
Old 05-31-2017, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
So if you can lock in the timing with the locking tool, and install it with the engine at 14-15* BTDC, what's the point of the A-B light?
Another tool same function easier to use but 10x the cost about.
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  #34  
Old 05-31-2017, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
Another tool same function easier to use but 10x the cost about.
Right, but I thought you had to use the locking tool when removing or installing the IP, so I'm not really understanding the role of the A-B light. I mean, if all you have to do is install the IP, and then remove the locking tool and be done - what could be easier than that?
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  #35  
Old 05-31-2017, 10:54 PM
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The locking tool gets it close. The A/B light gets it perfect. For most of us, "close" is good enough.
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1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

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1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

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1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
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1990 560SEL
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  #36  
Old 06-01-2017, 12:55 AM
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The A/B light is useful to check and adjust IP timing after changing the chain or timer sprocket. I don't think the A-B light is appreciably more accurate than the locking tool. Both lights are on for about as much arc as there is slop with the locking pin.

Sixto
83 300SD can be yours
98 E320 wagon
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  #37  
Old 06-01-2017, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
The locking tool gets it close. The A/B light gets it perfect. For most of us, "close" is good enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
The A/B light is useful to check and adjust IP timing after changing the chain or timer sprocket. I don't think the A-B light is appreciably more accurate than the locking tool. Both lights are on for about as much arc as there is slop with the locking pin.
You guys know if anyone is still renting the A-B light? It looks like there was a guy who used to do it, but isn't active on the forums anymore. I seem to be about 10 years late to this party!
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  #38  
Old 06-01-2017, 02:51 PM
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As long as the locking tool has kept the IP locked, and the engine is still at ~15 ATDC on #1 compression stroke, then the IP timing will be correct when it is installed.
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  #39  
Old 06-04-2017, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
As long as the locking tool has kept the IP locked, and the engine is still at ~15 ATDC on #1 compression stroke, then the IP timing will be correct when it is installed.
It was in my case (OP of this thread several years back). No problems with it.
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  #40  
Old 04-23-2023, 09:04 PM
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Can anyone explain what the timing basket is? It’s in these instructions.

I get that it isn’t the locking tool. It’s supposed to be installed I guess when the vacuum pump is removed.

I can’t get the Torx screws on the bottom plate of my IP to budge so I think I’m going to have to remove it. Ugh. Good time to replace the vacuum pump too.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #41  
Old 04-23-2023, 09:11 PM
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The timing basket keeps the timing device in place when the IP is removed.

When you remove the IP, re-seal the entire thing, not just the bottom O-ring.
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  #42  
Old 04-23-2023, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
The timing basket keeps the timing device in place when the IP is removed.

When you remove the IP, re-seal the entire thing, not just the bottom O-ring.
Definitely will re-seal everything. I’m still not sure what the basket and timing device are. Not my first rodeo with these cars by a long shot, But I’ve never pulled an IP yet…
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #43  
Old 04-24-2023, 08:58 AM
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The timing device advances the IP timing based on RPM. It is only held in place by the IP shaft though, AFAICT. So when you pull the IP, the timing chain pulls the timing device out of position - making it a real chore to get everything timed correctly, and difficult to re-install the IP. Need the timing basket to hold it in place while the IP is being R&R'd.
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  #44  
Old 04-24-2023, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
The timing device advances the IP timing based on RPM. It is only held in place by the IP shaft though, AFAICT. So when you pull the IP, the timing chain pulls the timing device out of position - making it a real chore to get everything timed correctly, and difficult to re-install the IP. Need the timing basket to hold it in place while the IP is being R&R'd.
Is there a photo or a good FSM section that shows how to use it? I just don’t fully get the process yet having never removed an IP.

Sucks that I have to do this just because of a bad seal on the IP. The Torx screws are almost accessible, but way too tight to get in an upside down backwards direction with the clearance that limits use of a tool that can apply more torque.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #45  
Old 04-24-2023, 09:22 AM
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Follow the FSM procedure, job 07.1-8410:

UPDATE WITH DIFFERENT URL: https://bit.ly/3HbrfDg

Remember not to rotate the engine (or IP) while the lock tool is inserted.

Hopefully the assembly basket is in place, or you have a loose one available, they have been NLA for many years.

Even if you could have removed the lower plate with the IP installed, you would have then received a black oil bath as the pint of oil inside dumped out. And it would have been a nightmare trying to R&R the cover. Far better to remove the entire IP and reseal everything. Don't forget a new O-ring between the block and IP, and a new IP shaft seal as well. If you have any interest in turning up the full load delivery, now is the time to do it, as it's 100x easier with the pump on the workbench.


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Last edited by gsxr; 04-24-2023 at 10:12 AM.
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