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#31
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The locking tool preserves the relationship of IP and timing chain so there shouldn't be any change. Most of us don't need more variables so best to install the IP, get the engine running reliably, then tweak IP timing if necessary. The locking tool makes this the case with any IP.
Sixto 83 300SD can be yours 98 E320 wagon |
#32
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Quote:
So if you can lock in the timing with the locking tool, and install it with the engine at 14-15* BTDC, what's the point of the A-B light?
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___________________________________________ 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo
W124.128/OM602.962/4G-Tronic 722.418 Dieselmeken 7,5mm | Sportline Interior My Build Thread |
#33
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Another tool same function easier to use but 10x the cost about.
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92 e300d2.5t 01 e320 05 cdi 85 chev c10 |
#34
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Right, but I thought you had to use the locking tool when removing or installing the IP, so I'm not really understanding the role of the A-B light. I mean, if all you have to do is install the IP, and then remove the locking tool and be done - what could be easier than that?
__________________
___________________________________________ 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo
W124.128/OM602.962/4G-Tronic 722.418 Dieselmeken 7,5mm | Sportline Interior My Build Thread |
#35
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The locking tool gets it close. The A/B light gets it perfect. For most of us, "close" is good enough.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#36
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The A/B light is useful to check and adjust IP timing after changing the chain or timer sprocket. I don't think the A-B light is appreciably more accurate than the locking tool. Both lights are on for about as much arc as there is slop with the locking pin.
Sixto 83 300SD can be yours 98 E320 wagon |
#37
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Quote:
__________________
___________________________________________ 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo
W124.128/OM602.962/4G-Tronic 722.418 Dieselmeken 7,5mm | Sportline Interior My Build Thread |
#38
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As long as the locking tool has kept the IP locked, and the engine is still at ~15 ATDC on #1 compression stroke, then the IP timing will be correct when it is installed.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#39
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It was in my case (OP of this thread several years back). No problems with it.
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
#40
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Can anyone explain what the timing basket is? It’s in these instructions.
I get that it isn’t the locking tool. It’s supposed to be installed I guess when the vacuum pump is removed. I can’t get the Torx screws on the bottom plate of my IP to budge so I think I’m going to have to remove it. Ugh. Good time to replace the vacuum pump too.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#41
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The timing basket keeps the timing device in place when the IP is removed.
When you remove the IP, re-seal the entire thing, not just the bottom O-ring. |
#42
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Definitely will re-seal everything. I’m still not sure what the basket and timing device are. Not my first rodeo with these cars by a long shot, But I’ve never pulled an IP yet…
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#43
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The timing device advances the IP timing based on RPM. It is only held in place by the IP shaft though, AFAICT. So when you pull the IP, the timing chain pulls the timing device out of position - making it a real chore to get everything timed correctly, and difficult to re-install the IP. Need the timing basket to hold it in place while the IP is being R&R'd.
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#44
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Quote:
Sucks that I have to do this just because of a bad seal on the IP. The Torx screws are almost accessible, but way too tight to get in an upside down backwards direction with the clearance that limits use of a tool that can apply more torque.
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#45
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Follow the FSM procedure, job 07.1-8410:
UPDATE WITH DIFFERENT URL: https://bit.ly/3HbrfDg Remember not to rotate the engine (or IP) while the lock tool is inserted. Hopefully the assembly basket is in place, or you have a loose one available, they have been NLA for many years. Even if you could have removed the lower plate with the IP installed, you would have then received a black oil bath as the pint of oil inside dumped out. And it would have been a nightmare trying to R&R the cover. Far better to remove the entire IP and reseal everything. Don't forget a new O-ring between the block and IP, and a new IP shaft seal as well. If you have any interest in turning up the full load delivery, now is the time to do it, as it's 100x easier with the pump on the workbench. Last edited by gsxr; 04-24-2023 at 10:12 AM. |
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