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#1
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starter problem '87 300TD
Please help- changed the in-line and spin-on fuel filters(filled with fuel from the old one). Continued to crank and would not start. I must have kept it turning for about 3 minutes when all of a sudden : no cranking, not even an attempt to turn over. Battery checked out at the Auto Zone-shows good. Suspect I may have damaged the starter (installed about 1 yr ago).
What now? |
#2
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Yes, three minutes is a long time to spin the starter without starting (unless it's 30 below). I'd do some electrical diagnostic testing to make sure the starter is getting electricity with the key in the start position. You could have melted a wire.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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no it's more like 90 here.... I'm surprised there is no thermal protection of some kind to prevent a meltdown.....
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#4
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There is (Thermal Protection)
Against the Starter setting fire to the car...
It only works once...Then you have to get a new or rebuilt starter!
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#5
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Now you tell me....! Kidding, but you are right about that "once only"... Took it to a shop today and on Manday I will know if they can rebuild it. What a way to learn!
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#6
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Surprised you had enough battery to spin for 3 min!
At tthat time, Id definitely check wires, they could be be melted. You can always run jumper cable from positive down to starter and bridge solenoid pin to hot lead. It should engage starter that way, quick/easy test. Be sure you dont accidentally ground the hot cable end on metal though or you will get a spark show. Incidentally, I just went thru all this on my 87 300D and burned up the starter. I was cranking for 15 sec and resting for 30 sec, still burned it out. Installing the reman is a real *****, not helped by fact my veggie lines are routed near there. No room to remove old starter. Helps to crack #1 injector line at injector, crank till you see fuel. The tighten and crack #2, and repeat. By the time you see fuel in #3 it should lite off. Otherwise, it will crank all day getting the air thru IP.
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#7
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Thanks,at2, I'm glad someone else also felt the quiet rage of trying to get that hevy ***** out of there and than do it again in reverse! I had no idea that the "self-priming" was more of a "concept "than reality on my car.... Maybe I should also take a look at the fuel pump? Better,not- chances are I would mess it up as well!
Cracking the lines sure sounds like a ticket! Thanks for the tip. |
#8
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wouldnt say it was "quiet rage"
now theres a small dent in left fender, about the imprint of my knuckle. Dont usually loose my temper either, that job just pissed me off to no end (prob cuz I got to do the glows at same time). Yeh crack injector lines and crank, she'll fire. I hate the "self priming" design of OM603 as well. Expensive way to prime motor...
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#9
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OK so the rebuild starter got installed, I cranked it just so - and nothing! Mindful of a prospect of another $300 going down the drain, I was much easier on the starter but still gave it a pretty good workout. Nothing. Let it cool off overnight and started again this morning. After some agonizing cranking finally I heard it sputter and was expecting the so well known clatter to follow but instead it kept on sputtering for about a minute before it took off! Before cranking this morning I made sure fuel was topping the primary filter and coming out of the fuel line.
I do not think it should be that traumatic to change fuel filters and so would appreciate any suggestions as to what do I need to check next to find the "weak link"? Appreciate all of your help. |
#10
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Fill the fuel filter all the way and crack #1 injector while cranking. All you can do on OMG!603 "auto" priming system.
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Paul Benz-less I need an SDL ! |
#11
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thanks a2t: making sure filter was full all the way up did it.
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#12
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Quote:
Wow, I probably fried my starter too priming after the filter change. I was cranking aways for a LONG time and now my starter is dead meat. What a stupid design... unless you want to sell starter motors! I have veggie lines too under there and can barely even see the starter. Does anyone have a schematic or photos of the motoer installed, or know where to find them??? |
#13
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Sorry no photos but the starter wires are pretty easy to see down below the oil filter housing (even though you may need to push some of the other hoses out of the way).
Two pieces of advice from someone who has done multiple fuel filter changes on his OM603 over the years - and never had to crack open an injector line to get her started: 1. ALWAYS fill the spin on fuel filter with diesel to the very top before you crank. If you don't the first two minutes of cranking will be spent just filling the filter. 2. If at all possible try to change the filters when the engine is still warm. A warm engine will light up faster and run better on just 2-3 cylinders until all the injectors are flowing. From my experience it makes a big difference.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
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