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#1
07-04-2008, 02:04 PM
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sucessful repair!
I finally got around to installing my new, used, window regulator. Removing the old one was a snap and installing was a cake walk. After getting it back on the track and making note of the rust on the metal strip at the bottom of the window, I buttoned it back up and gave it some juice
fingers crossed windows go up windows go down hurray! no magic blue smoke!!! the only thing is that the person I bought it from cut the wires instead of unscrewing them from the little block on the door so I had to splice them together and now need to wrap them in something so they do not rub and then short windows go up windows go down windows go up windows go down windows go up windows go down windows go up windows go down windows go up windows go down 
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#2
07-04-2008, 02:48 PM
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Just did one on my 300D last weekend.
It was my sixth time doing this job. Rears are easy, fronts are more tedious. Did you lube the sliding track?
__________________
'90 300SE 298k -300K and it gets put into retirement. '80 300D 255k Purchased new by family in 1980. Had a: 1973 220 (gas) 1980 300SD 1992 400E
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#3
07-04-2008, 02:50 PM
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no... I should probably do so. I did lube the gears with some white lithium grease I had laying around
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#4
07-04-2008, 03:19 PM
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Heat Shrink
Don ---
Heat Shrink over the splice in the wires. You won't ever have any issues with the splice even if you don't solder the wires.
__________________
daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#5
07-04-2008, 04:28 PM
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I used barrel type crimp connectors, never had an issue with those.
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#7
07-04-2008, 06:08 PM
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I have to do the passenger rear in the wagon soon. It bucks and pitches the whole way up. Well, not the whole way since it stops about an 1/8 of an inch from closing fully.......
I thought I had done this one already, but I may have just straightened out the old one. Need to check my notes. I shoulda got one at PNP before they did away with half price Wednesdays..... 
__________________
Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT  2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China"  Scar engine installed'81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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#8
07-04-2008, 06:30 PM
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now my passenger side window is making a slight popping sound on the way up.. yarrr. But now I know how to remove the stupid things without breaking the glass
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#9
07-06-2008, 06:56 PM
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apparently my repair was short lived
I was adjusting the door stop because the door doesn't like to latch, even with new stops.. and after completing that I go to close the windows because I left them open all day and guess what the fuh happens It goes *whirrrrr ... clunk clunk* the window will not go up but it will keep spinning so, extremely angered off I remove the door panel and what do I find, the window motor, not bolted onto the brace, just chilling there like a tard. I go look at my old window regulator and find that one has bolts in 3 spots holding it on my new used one, DOESNT! I am very very angered off right now that I have to re do the same job I did the other day, twice now... bangers and frign mash fixed it.... Last edited by TheDon; 07-06-2008 at 09:11 PM.
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#10
07-06-2008, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
__________________
daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more
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#11
07-07-2008, 01:03 AM
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Don't feel bad, ALL of the windows on our recently acquired (and beautiful) 300SD do not work right, a couple don't move at all (but do dim the dome light), one makes noise, and the other moves reeeealll slow....probably an almost dead motor. So I'll be fixing four windows in the not too distant future....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#12
07-07-2008, 08:19 AM
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I fixed it alright, I scavenged the bolts off the old regulator. I am curious why my new , used, regulator didn't have the bolts.
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#13
08-05-2008, 08:02 PM
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'80 300SD Driver side window
I recently tried to follow the instructions at Diesel Giant to remove the drivers side door panel, to replace the vaccum valve in there, but he must've been using another model as and example. When I got everything apart, and was ready to remove the panel something was holding it and I couldn't bring myself to pry any harder 'cause I didn't want to be picking pieces of it up off the garage floor. Felt like what ever clip or pin was holding it, it felt like it was toward the center of the panel..... any ideas?
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#14
08-05-2008, 09:47 PM
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mslinger, map pocket hook.
Jiggle the map pocket around, or pull it up, and the panel should release. Thats all I can think of in the middle of the panel, unless you've got something funky going on with your handle.
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 
Linear Mode
