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Tach questions
I seem to be having the worst luck imaginable with tach sensors. I tested mine according to the procedure in the manual. It tests fine for resistance - 1.8k Ohms +/- .2k Ohms, but the voltage measurement is basically zero at idle - whereas the manual says it should be putting out about 4 volts when idling at 750 RPMs.
So I bought a used one from another member and it tests exactly the same. Reistance is fine, voltage is only a couple of millivolts. So I bought yet a THIRD used one from another member and damned if it doesn't test out the same too. Any body got any theories on what's going on here? It just doesn't seem likely that all THREE of them are bad - unless they are just a really weak and failure prone part - and my luck really sucks! The only other theory I can come up with is that the newer flywheel for use with the bellhousing mounted sensor has some kind of special configuration (imbedded magnets or something) and someone replaced mine with an earlier style flywheel at some point in the past... One other question. On the 84 & 85 with the bellhousing mounted tach sensor, does the cruise control need a tach signal? My cruise control seemed to go whonky about the same time as my tach. When you engage the cruise it just floors the pedal and accelerates non-stop. That kind of makes me wonder if the lack of voltage signal from the tach is the problem...
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown |
#2
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Did you check you OVP relay? There is a fuse on top of the relay. My tach wont work if the fuse is not there. I believe the elec. connector can be put backwards too.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
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That very well could be. I don't think the cruise is tied to the tach system. I second checking out the OVP. My '85 had a busted tach too. The OVP fuse looked fine, so I replaced the whole relay and it fixed the tach.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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The OVP being bad doesn't explain why the tach sensor tests bad. I suggest the following possibilities: (a) wrong setting on multimeter -- should be measuring AC volts, not DC, (b) bad voltmeter circuit in multimeter, (c) mounting bracket for tach sensor bent, holds sensor too far from flywheel.
You should be able to wave a screwdriver or other metal object close to the sensor and see a reaction on a voltmeter. The cruise control gets its speed information from a sensor mounted on the back of the speedometer. It's part of the instrument cluster, has its own connector. Your cruise problem could be either an electronic failure in the brain box (under the dash, driver's side) or something stuck in the actuator (under the hood, near the power steering pump/reservoir). Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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I can also check the actuator. Though I kind of doubt that one because of the way it acts. When you hit the cruise switch it will start accelerating and continue to do so until you either flick the switch off or tap the brake. Seems like it is lacking a feedback reference signal to tell it when it is at the set speed.
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown Last edited by rcounts; 08-03-2008 at 03:48 PM. |
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OK, I tried the other meter and VIOLA' - AC voltage at the connector. So, now I know I have a good sensor. Good suggestion Jeremy, I would never have suspected the other one of being bad. Sometimes its the obvious things...
Next question; What is the OVP and where is it located? I'm in the process of trying to put the cluster back in and put everything back together after having installed my new dash overlay, so a quick reply would be MOST appreciated....
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown |
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This isn't a real quick reply, but it is under dash, just to the right of the glove box area, kind of behind the passenger AC vent.......
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#8
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It lives!
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You and I have had some pretty ...er....animatated disagreements a couple of times, but I have to hand it to ya' - you came through in spades on this one for me buddy. THANKS!
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel Silver blue paint over navy blue interior 2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise 99% original unmolested car ~210k miles on the clock 1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion 152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown Last edited by rcounts; 08-04-2008 at 01:09 AM. |
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