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  #16  
Old 08-03-2008, 02:43 PM
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it would be nice to send all that crud through your new components. All that hard material can't be good for your pump and can get stuck in a radiator if there are copious amounts

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  #17  
Old 08-03-2008, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
it would be nice to send all that crud through your new components. All that hard material can't be good for your pump and can get stuck in a radiator if there are copious amounts


Do you mean it would be nice to NOT send all that crud through the new components? Seems like, if I am able, I should flush the system with the old parts, then install the new...given the old parts will hold up to the flushing.

Does this make sense?
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2008, 03:28 PM
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Yes

Flush it now with the Old components in use!

Before you Citric Acid Flush (As a recommended part of the process) .After you
drain the coolant in there now and run a couple of fresh water flushes...fill the
system with a third fresh water flush and add Dawn Dish Detergent, run it...
drain and flush at least twice with clean water.This is to De-Oil the system so
that the Citric Acid Flush may work more efficiently.
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  #19  
Old 08-03-2008, 04:12 PM
msga
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Acworth Georgia
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Neck reinforce

I recently did some cooling system work and decided that, while I had everything apart, I would install the Mercedes Source radiator neck reinforcement kit. The stock radiator neck at the upper hose tends to break and is a weak design. You could source what you need to do this on your own and save some money. I just found it easier to order a kit and install. You can view the kit on their web site.

It is a simple thing to do. Your are using epoxy to glue a piece of copper pipe inside the neck and using a wider hose clamp. I've read that using the wrong antifreeze may be a contributing factor to the neck becoming brittle and breaking. Use MB coolant or Zerex G-05.

I recommend this while you've got things apart. I have NFI in Mercedes Source and am by no means an expert. The PO of my car had replaced the radiator before I bought it because of the neck breaking. It also had the wrong coolant (green) when I installed this kit. For the price, I bought some peace of mind. I also thoroughly flushed and replaced the fluid with correct fluid. A thorough flush requires that you remove and replace the block drain plug multiple times. This task tried my patience until I had done it several times.

Hope this helps,

Mark
1982 300D T
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  #20  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msgaevans View Post
I recently did some cooling system work and decided that, while I had everything apart, I would install the Mercedes Source radiator neck reinforcement kit. The stock radiator neck at the upper hose tends to break and is a weak design. You could source what you need to do this on your own and save some money. I just found it easier to order a kit and install. You can view the kit on their web site.

It is a simple thing to do. Your are using epoxy to glue a piece of copper pipe inside the neck and using a wider hose clamp. I've read that using the wrong antifreeze may be a contributing factor to the neck becoming brittle and breaking. Use MB coolant or Zerex G-05.

I recommend this while you've got things apart. I have NFI in Mercedes Source and am by no means an expert. The PO of my car had replaced the radiator before I bought it because of the neck breaking. It also had the wrong coolant (green) when I installed this kit. For the price, I bought some peace of mind. I also thoroughly flushed and replaced the fluid with correct fluid. A thorough flush requires that you remove and replace the block drain plug multiple times. This task tried my patience until I had done it several times.

Hope this helps,

Mark
1982 300D T

Good thoughts - thanks Mark.

What's the diameter on that piece of copper in that kit? Do you remember? Seems pretty simple to add in myself, if I knew that diameter.
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  #21  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Flush it now with the Old components in use!

Before you Citric Acid Flush (As a recommended part of the process) .After you
drain the coolant in there now and run a couple of fresh water flushes...fill the
system with a third fresh water flush and add Dawn Dish Detergent, run it...
drain and flush at least twice with clean water.This is to De-Oil the system so
that the Citric Acid Flush may work more efficiently.


How much water makes one third of the total? And, how much dish detergent? What constitutes a "flush?" Fill with water, turn car on, let water run out? Sorry...can't quite figure out some of these nuances in all these posts I'm reading.
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  #22  
Old 08-03-2008, 06:09 PM
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He means a third flush: water - water - water+soap - water - water


Then Cittic acid procedure.

I did not do this on the wagon - the system was very clean, and I had no cooling issues (except a leaky WP). But there is rust in my 240D system, so I am going to do it before I replace the crappy NAPA thermostat with my new Behr.
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Gone and fondly remembered:
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Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
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Other car in the stable:
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  #23  
Old 08-03-2008, 06:53 PM
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"He means a third flush: water - water - water+soap - water - water"

Right, but the term "flush" is what I'm confused on. I'm a bit slow, so hang with me...

Drain radiator through drain plug (with engine off)
Drain block through block plug (with engine off)
Put both plugs back in, and fill upper radiator hose with regular tap water.
Turn engine on.
Let run for XX minutes (how long?)
Open both plugs and let water run out.
Repeat.
Then, put both plugs back in. Add water with soap into upper radiator hose.
Turn engine on (for how long?) with soapy water inside.
Let run.
Open both plugs, let soapy water run out.
Repeat water process twice.
Then, start citric acid flush.

Is this right?
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  #24  
Old 08-04-2008, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
it would be nice to send all that crud through your new components. All that hard material can't be good for your pump and can get stuck in a radiator if there are copious amounts

yyeeeeaahh... I meant OLD components. sorry.

sounds like youre on your way
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  #25  
Old 08-04-2008, 07:14 AM
msga
 
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I don't know the diameter of the copper pipe used to reinforce the radiator neck. I'll have it apart again later in the week to replace the short cooling hose and I can measure it.

Mark
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  #26  
Old 08-04-2008, 09:04 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: The Alamo City, TEXAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoWhat View Post
"He means a third flush: water - water - water+soap - water - water"

Right, but the term "flush" is what I'm confused on. I'm a bit slow, so hang with me...

Drain radiator through drain plug (with engine off)
Drain block through block plug (with engine off)
Put both plugs back in, and fill upper radiator hose with regular tap water.
Turn engine on.
Let run for XX minutes (how long?)
Open both plugs and let water run out.
Repeat.
Then, put both plugs back in. Add water with soap into upper radiator hose.
Turn engine on (for how long?) with soapy water inside.
Let run.
Open both plugs, let soapy water run out.
Repeat water process twice.
Then, start citric acid flush.

Is this right?
According to the FSM I have it is.

XX-min = until operating temp is reached

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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