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  #1  
Old 08-03-2008, 11:29 AM
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Replacing radiator, thermostat - water pump too?

I'm replacing my radiator with a new Behr. My plan is to replace the upper and lower oil cooler lines (the lower leaks oil like crazy), thermostat, and mono valve at the same time (blower only blows inferno-like heat right now).

Is it advisable to replace the water pump at the same time? I honestly can't quite figure out where it is, but I'm guessing it's behind the wheel where the radiator fan is attached. I cannot, for the life of me, find a DIY article on the water pump...i.e. how do I get the belts off/on safely, etc.

Besides all that, is there anything else I should consider replacing while I have all this stuff off?

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  #2  
Old 08-03-2008, 12:13 PM
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Replacing the pump may save you time and hassle in the future. If you are not experiencing any overheating like symptoms or leakage, you're probably wasting money. It is not all that difficult to do in the future.

perhaps a prudent consideration would be to purchase one, to have on hand if you are concerned. And when you have everything opened up, inspect the pump thoroughly as per FSM.
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  #3  
Old 08-03-2008, 12:22 PM
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the fan and thermocouple are bolted to the pump which is bolted on to the block.

the pulley is behind the fan on the water pump mounting wheel.


you have 2 belts on that water pump pulley, right? They are behind another belt for the power steering correct?

Forgive me, but I have my A/C removed. Do you have a second belt in the way for the A/C as well?

The alternator is mounted on a bracket that provides the tension to the 2 belts on the water pump. Loosen all bolts (not necessary to remove) and THEN loosen the tensioner bolt (long threaded rod with large nut-like head).

Loosen the power steering pump brack in similar fashion and loosen the adjusting bolt last. This adjuster is more like a regular bolt visible from the top.

The A/c compressor I forget cuz mine is gone... but you get the jist.
there isn't much to be concerned about with safety as long as your engine is off and you aren't strong enough to start the car by hand.

you could cut the belts if you wanted to and would not get hurt.
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  #4  
Old 08-03-2008, 12:29 PM
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Just did this lat month in the TD. You do need to remove the PS belt for access, but no need to remove the AC belt.
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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
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  #5  
Old 08-03-2008, 12:36 PM
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I forgot the additional item:

There is an intermediate section of coolant hose on the thermostat housing that should be replaced now.

You will see it when you open everything up. look for a section of normal diameter coolant hose w/ two clamps on it connected to the thermostat housing above the alternator.
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  #6  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
I forgot the additional item:

There is an intermediate section of coolant hose on the thermostat housing that should be replaced now.

You will see it when you open everything up. look for a section of normal diameter coolant hose w/ two clamps on it connected to the thermostat housing above the alternator.
I regretted doing this in mine. My hose in the TD was in great shape, but based on similar advice I cut it to get it off. Replace ment hose from the dealer is VERY $$$

I was quoted $30 for the segment. I ended up using a straight section of preformed hose for a different car from Advance Auto. The difference in quality is obvious - the MB hose is much thicker walled and more pliable. Also, the fit was not quite as good with the english sized hose segment.

If the hose is in good shape, I would reuse it. IMHO
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #7  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
Replacing the pump may save you time and hassle in the future. If you are not experiencing any overheating like symptoms or leakage, you're probably wasting money. It is not all that difficult to do in the future.

perhaps a prudent consideration would be to purchase one, to have on hand if you are concerned. And when you have everything opened up, inspect the pump thoroughly as per FSM.

I am having overheating issues, however, my radiator leaks fluid like a sieve (crack along top plastic cap part thingy). My thought it to replace the water pump now, just to get all the cooling stuff in order. You're right - I could just buy the water pump now and have it on hand if I need it.

Thanks!
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  #8  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:11 PM
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What is agood way to determine quality of the hose? I have the chanve to do mine also right now and I can't tell if its any good - too small.
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  #9  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
the fan and thermocouple are bolted to the pump which is bolted on to the block.

the pulley is behind the fan on the water pump mounting wheel.


you have 2 belts on that water pump pulley, right? They are behind another belt for the power steering correct?

Forgive me, but I have my A/C removed. Do you have a second belt in the way for the A/C as well?

The alternator is mounted on a bracket that provides the tension to the 2 belts on the water pump. Loosen all bolts (not necessary to remove) and THEN loosen the tensioner bolt (long threaded rod with large nut-like head).

Loosen the power steering pump brack in similar fashion and loosen the adjusting bolt last. This adjuster is more like a regular bolt visible from the top.

The A/c compressor I forget cuz mine is gone... but you get the jist.
there isn't much to be concerned about with safety as long as your engine is off and you aren't strong enough to start the car by hand.

you could cut the belts if you wanted to and would not get hurt.
This is great - exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

Yes, I have two belts on the water pump pulley, behind the power steering belt (again, not totally sure what I'm looking at, but what you're describing makes sense as I look at it in person).

The belts all appear to be in good shape - no cracking or nastiness that I can tell.
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  #10  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:15 PM
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It may be cheap insurance just to get it out of the way. in addition, a good system flush is prob in order when reassembled. Search 'citric acid'.

edit: Cheap insurance to replace the pump
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Last edited by jt20; 08-03-2008 at 01:23 PM.
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  #11  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
I regretted doing this in mine. My hose in the TD was in great shape, but based on similar advice I cut it to get it off. Replace ment hose from the dealer is VERY $$$

I was quoted $30 for the segment. I ended up using a straight section of preformed hose for a different car from Advance Auto. The difference in quality is obvious - the MB hose is much thicker walled and more pliable. Also, the fit was not quite as good with the english sized hose segment.

If the hose is in good shape, I would reuse it. IMHO

Good to know. I'll look at that hose to see if I can reuse it. I suppose I'll able to tell if it's noticeable warn (i.e. cracking, bulging, etc).

Since you just completed a similar job on your wagon, how much time did it take you? I'm always under-budgeting the time aspect of jobs like this!
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  #12  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
It may be cheap insurance just to get it out of the way. in addition, a good system flush is prob in order when reassembled. Search 'citric acid'.

I didn't think about the system flush. If everything is replaced, it's probably still a good idea to do...man, the work never stops!
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  #13  
Old 08-03-2008, 01:27 PM
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tell me about it, I could become a Mercedes monk and devote an entire lifetime to properly restoring one of these magnets.

the flush will clean your block, --very important if you are overheating. Coolant needs good contact to the iron in order for proper convection of heat.
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  #14  
Old 08-03-2008, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoWhat View Post
Good to know. I'll look at that hose to see if I can reuse it. I suppose I'll able to tell if it's noticeable warn (i.e. cracking, bulging, etc).
Yes. My 240D needs a new hose, I can see that it is sort of melting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoWhat View Post
Since you just completed a similar job on your wagon, how much time did it take you? I'm always under-budgeting the time aspect of jobs like this!
Hard to say. I started on a Friday night and got it all apart. Then I thought it was just the thermostat seal so I put it all back together the next day and refilled the coolant. Still leaking the next week, and I already had the WP on hand. So the next weekend I took it all back apart and installed the WP. I think I would estimate 8 hours if you have no experience draining the system, taking out the fan, removing the belts....

Took me a while to figure out how each belt works, and a while to get the WP and housing removed from the engine and then separated.


I was faster getting it all apart the second time

Good luck!
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2008, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
Yes. My 240D needs a new hose, I can see that it is sort of melting.


Hard to say. I started on a Friday night and got it all apart. Then I thought it was just the thermostat seal so I put it all back together the next day and refilled the coolant. Still leaking the next week, and I already had the WP on hand. So the next weekend I took it all back apart and installed the WP. I think I would estimate 8 hours if you have no experience draining the system, taking out the fan, removing the belts....

Took me a while to figure out how each belt works, and a while to get the WP and housing removed from the engine and then separated.


I was faster getting it all apart the second time

Good luck!

I hear you on doing it faster the second time - happens to me all the time.

I don't have ANY experience working on the cooling system, so a full 8 hours seems about right.

Do you think I should replace all the parts, THEN perform the citrus flush? This is going to turn into a marathon...

TIA,

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