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-   -   Instant oil consumption after cyl head R&R (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/229726-instant-oil-consumption-after-cyl-head-r-r.html)

WINGAS 08-06-2008 12:15 PM

Instant oil consumption after cyl head R&R
 
All of a sudden my 606 is using maybe a qt every tankful (700miles), while it was negligible before I removed the cyl head for freshening. They put new seals on, Audi seals on the exhaust side since they couldn;t find 7mm MBz seals. The cyl head was beat up good.

Maybe I reassembled it incorrectly? What would cause such oil consumption to occur all of a sudden?

I'm pulling the valve cover to see if oil is seeping past the o rings and filling the injector towers, other than that, I am at a loss.

Have never smelled oil in the exhaust before. Hope I can visually check valve seals w/o removing cams/lifter plate off. Am switching back to dino oil from syth, which will help a bit.

There are no visable oil leaks, it is burning it.

kerry 08-06-2008 12:19 PM

Head gasket failed at an oil gallery?

NoSparkNeeded 08-06-2008 12:47 PM

Maybe rings?
 
I once rebuilt a Honda Civic head. I installed it and the car started really burning oil. The well functioning head was causing oil to be pulled past
the rings. I honed the cylinders and put new rings in and it solved the problem. Don't know if that is what has happened to you.

nhdoc 08-06-2008 01:03 PM

Well, since you know they didn't use the OEM seals, for whatever reason, that is where I would suspect the problem to be first and foremost.

I don't know if the audi seals are "interchangeable" or not but I can't understand why they would not just use OEM parts. I ordered a set of seals for a 34 year old 240D from my dealer and they got them in 2 days and for $20...how could parts for the OM606 be "unavailable"??? I'd tell whoever made the executive decision to proceed with the incorrect parts to redo it right.

WINGAS 08-06-2008 01:59 PM

Not so fast nhdoc, these 606 are anomolous motors, this one being a " mid year" with oversize exhaust valves. MBZ was of NO HELP in finding the right part, so I authorized the shop to use a good 7mm teflon seal of the right config and height.

Plus, I aint pullign the head again. Its a royal PITA. If the exhaust seals arent shreddeed up, I cant see why they'd fail.

Pulling the oil past the rings, huh? New one on me, but I've come to realize the deisel is bass ackwards from gassers. I could see blowby increasing, but.... I DID NOT freshen the lower end as the cross hatch was intact and all looked well.

Scott98 08-06-2008 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc (Post 1931886)
Well, since you know they didn't use the OEM seals, for whatever reason, that is where I would suspect the problem to be first and foremost.

The incorrect seals were on the exhaust valves where you have positive pressure. I doubt they would be the culprit.

Scott

nhdoc 08-06-2008 02:08 PM

I only said I'd suspect the seals first because you said you used non-oem parts. I know in some applications the height of the seal is critical...I assume the seals you used were no taller than the one which came out?

Did you have the head magnafluxed while it was off to check for any cracks? Seals, cracks or headgasket...where else could the oil get from the crankcase side to the piston side after R&R of the head? Two out of three of those will require you to pull the head again to fix, so I guess you better hope it was the seals unless you just want to live with it.

nhdoc 08-06-2008 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott98 (Post 1931941)
The incorrect seals were on the exhaust valves where you have positive pressure. I doubt they would be the culprit.

Scott

There must be a way for oil to get past the exhaust valve stems or else they would not need seals on them. Would you think if you simply omitted the seals on the exhaust valves the car would not burn any oil from leaks past the valve stems?

Scott98 08-06-2008 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc (Post 1931946)
There must be a way for oil to get past the exhaust valve stems or else they would not need seals on them. Would you think if you simply omitted the seals on the exhaust valves the car would not burn any oil from leaks past the valve stems?

I agree but the oil loss should be minimal - he does have seals on there. Its really on the intake side where you have negative pressure (on gas engines) that you get most of your oil loss with bad valve stem seals.

Scott

compress ignite 08-06-2008 07:30 PM

Mercedes (Brand) OEM seals only,Please
 
1 Attachment(s)
You'll note both of the seal sets pictured below are OE type.(One is OEM)
There is a vast difference between OE type and OEM.

You're talking about VW(Audi) seals on a Mercedes valve train.
Which MAY be seals from another Galaxy comparison wise.

photography courtesy GSXR

Hatterasguy 08-06-2008 08:07 PM

Sounds like the screwed up the valve train seals.


Luckly you should be able, or they should be able to fix those while the head is in the car.

Bartman 08-06-2008 11:23 PM

Pull the intake and exhaust manifolds then look for oil on the valve stems.

WINGAS 08-07-2008 07:47 AM

Yeah, I'm going to pull the valve cover this weekend and give it a look see. To say I'm not looking forward to another engine R&R is a GROSS understatement. :(

WINGAS 08-08-2008 10:46 AM

Swapped out the Rotella synth 5-40 for Delvac dino 1300 15-40 and RADICALLY mitigated the smoking. I'll do a compression test when I check the GPs this winter,a dn see if I can check the seals visually under the cam tray this weeknd.

Damn car runs awesomely on B100. Liking the B100 , non oil burning, smell out the exhaust again. Quizzical issue. Older synth (5000 miles) must be thin enough to wik right up past the rings ? OR its generating tons of oil mist blowby being sucked back into the intake track.


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