Thanx for your thoughts, I am somewhat stuck with this one. But I don't think it is shift points. Although improved slightly with correcting small faults I have found, the car is still waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay slow.
Like I think if you sat in the drivers seat and floored it... I could get out of the passenger seat run around the car completely and get back in before it got to 2000 rpm, about then it would start to pull better and as it passes 3000 it will pull like crazy!
Car has 144000 KM... about 90,000 miles, seems to have been well cared for but is from Japan and I have no history

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Thanx,
Alberta Luthier
1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
1984 300SD ('Old Blue')150k Klicks from Japan originally, came with rear head rests, no sunroof and never had an EGR

pictures attached.






Have a great day

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

whunter

thanks for replying with marked up pics. as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

the turbo boost pressure line seems intact .....visually atleast.

as for the linkage rod in the second pic, i disconnected it and still cant move the linkage by hand far enough where it would touch the stop screw.

what would cause the car to struggle going up an incline and accelerate/rev just fine going down hill ?

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82-300TD 138k-----My First MB

one more question for you guys....

is it possible that the cams were worn to the point where setting the clearance according to the specs will cause the symptoms that i am seeing ? i really didnt pay attention to the cam enough to notice such wear...maybe i wouldnt have recognized it even if i saw it, since i have not seen a worn cam before ....but just theorizing....

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82-300TD 138k-----My First MB

...now that i am back from yet another test drive....the theory that i postulated in my last mail doesnt hold water.....because the car is accelerating and running just fine above 2000RPM.....it is just that it struggles getting to 2000RPM .....like what Alberta Luthier is describing for his car.....maybe the causes are completely different and the fact that mine was a fast accelerator until this friday until i decided that it needed a valve adjustment.....ah where would the world be without my brilliant ideas

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82-300TD 138k-----My First MB

You need to be able to hit that max stop with the IP. You need to adjust the linkage until it does. I highly recommend following the FSM as it has easy to follow steps to do so.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

whunter, winmutt and all for the pix and advice.
My throttle is going right to the screw, and the turbo boost line is good (& clean). My next test is a temporary (maybe permanent) boost gauge to see just what the turbo is or isn't doing and when.... I did notice that the impeller has a bit of play though it turns easily and smoothly by hand.
Maybe I will try to figure out how to make and post a movie of how it performs to better describe it.
Dailydriver, I don't want to hijack your thread, but it does sound like we might have a similar problem

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Thanx,
Alberta Luthier
1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
1984 300SD ('Old Blue')150k Klicks from Japan originally, came with rear head rests, no sunroof and never had an EGR

The linkage as shown in the photo is correct. However, in order to do the valve adjustment, I'd bet that you removed the connecting rod that extends from the firewall to the linkage in the photo. At the firewall is a single screw that fits a slot. When you remove this screw, you lose the proper adjustment position between the go pedal and the IP. You must set this screw properly so that the lever on the IP reaches the stop at the same time the pedal hits the kickdown switch.

The lack of proper adjustment of this one screw is the likely problem.

Suggest you bypass the Overboost protection valve for a test drive.

I must ask this question:

Was the cam Lobe in the correct position when you adjusted each valve?
Special attention to pictures attached to Posts: #91, #106 in the following thread.

Valve adjustment OM617 FYI.
Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI.

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Is this the same screw that's near the end of the rod coming from the firewall, at the forward end? If so, the right way to adjust that, is to loosen the screw, pull the linkages so they're at full throttle, and tighten it at the end of that range. That's how I did it on mine. Even if it looks like it's screwed on properly, the range is what's important.

I don't recall a screw at the firewall itself. The ones I know are on the bushing at the firewall for the throttle linkage, that goes bad over time. Please check this bushing and if you notice any play, then it's suspect and should be replaced.

If anything, 2000RPM is right around where the turbo spools up. So after that, the acceleration should be significantly better than before it hits 2000RPM. Maybe that's what you're feeling?

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guys.....the weekend is over and so is the fun and frustration of working on my car. I drove my car to an indy this morning. lets see what he finds.

whunter

thanks for sending the link to that picture. you ask a very important question about the lobe position. i used a pictorial on dieselgiant's website in which he had said that the lobe must be poiting straight up. http://www.dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm
so i guess being counter clockwise by about 30 degrees, could cause slightly different clearances. but in that same thread that you referenced, somebody else mentioned that even if one did it with the lobe vertical....one shouldnt be too far off.

Brian & MBeige

i did not have to take off a or any screw to remove the throttle rod, which was being kept in place by a pin through a hole in the flat end of the the throttle rod, near the fire wall. there is no adjustment possible on that arrangement. the other end of the throttle rod goes through a bushing in the linkage and there is a sliding lock tab which slips into the groove cut on the end of the throttle rod. so no adjustment there either. maybe i am not looking at the right component.

Alberta

i dont mind you getting involved in the mix, at all. i think it is a much better use of the valuable time of these knowledgeable guys who are giving us all these tips, if they can fix the problems for more than one person in the same thread.

lets see what my indy finds....i will give an update when i get the car back.

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82-300TD 138k-----My First MB

Ok guys.....got the car back from the shop.

The source of the problem was not the linkages or the valve clearance. They say it was the bowden cable which was sticking inside its sheath. This supposedly caused the the transmission to shift more quickly than required in lower gears, thus not allowing the RPM to increase and resulting in very low acceleration off the line. They replaced the bowden cable with a new one, for which they had to drop the transmission pan. Now moving the linkages lets it come to stop against the stop screw.

I want to thank everyone who sent me tips on this forum to try to solve this problem. Even though i had to ultimately take my car in to the shop to get the issue resolved (and as a result my wallet is much lighter today than it was yesterday ) it was more due to the lack of time at my end rather than the lack of ideas, expertise or willingness on part of the helpful members of this forum.

Thanks again and best regards,

Dailydriver

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82-300TD 138k-----My First MB

So post #29 was not too far off the point?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

yes.....kind of....

although i didnt even touch the bowden cable directly in this process but i guess moving all the other linkages around could have inadvertantly caused a kink in it or a strand to come loose.....or as my mechanic said...it might just have been murphy's law or plain coincidence that it happened to get stuck at the same time i decided to do a valve adjustment.

who knows what happened ....but i think i can take partial comfort from the fact that there wasnt much wrong with the process that i followed.

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82-300TD 138k-----My First MB