All clean and changed recently.

Condition of the vacuum pump? A torn diaphragm can cause oil consumption and a possible run away.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I'll verify. We rebuilt the vac pump on one of our two 300D's ("Blue", I think) but I seem to remember that this one ("Red") was doing fine.

The basic starting point is a possible plugged fuel tank strainer.

Algae/Fungus fixation...
Algae/Fungus fixation...

Biobor, what is it, why do I need it???
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/105304-biobor-what-why-do-i-need.html#post723857

Filters, Fungus, Biocide, etc.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/115952-filters-fungus-biocide-etc-post823378.html

Algae Clogged Filter Pic StarTron WORKS !
Algae Clogged Filter Pic StarTron WORKS !

Step two would be a possible air leak in the fuel system between fuel tank and injection pump.
NOTE: the primer pump is a common leak point = try using it, if it leaks diesel replace it.

The injector fuel return hoses must NOT leak = sucking air into the system.

Step three would be verification of fuel lift pump output volume, there is a valve rebuild kit MB# 000 090 02 10

Thanks to all for your help and patience with us. My wife and I have been alternately replying based on who has the time to do so. Let me clarify what has been done to this 1979 300D and how it operates. (my wife just called and the car will now die everytime she tries to put it in gear (incl. dr, rev, 2 and L).
The fuel strainer was just cleaned and was 99.9% clear of anything, new fuel lines with an electric aux fuel boost pump from **************, all clamps are tight, new primer pump, new monark injectors bench tested, new injector return lines with no leakage, new idle speed cable, new glow relay and glow plugs, new air cleaner, 3 week old valve adjustment, new timing chain (now has +1 advanced timing), new vacuum pump internals w/o any oil in ANY vacuum lines.
Now, the idle screw on the injection pump is turned all the way down (in) for the fastest idle possible. I believe that this, coupled with our high idle adjustment on our idle speed cable was contributing to the runaways we had and also acts like cruise control at about 50 mph. WE have tried pump diesel and b100 and still have these same symptoms of absolutely ZERO effect for 4-5 seconds when the gas pedal is pressed down any amount from a stop. This seems to happen only when the engine is started after being turned off because driving around town it will respond and start to move the car after about 2 seconds. The transmission is also wacky. It will not shift down unless we floor it and hit the kickdown switch under the gas pedal. We have adjusted the cable that links the throttle position to the transmission several times, about 2-3 turns tighter each time.
My two theories are this: the transmission throttle rod bushings (which I can't really see) are broken or loose causing the car to go into gear in third from a stop and to not shift down at all unless the kickdown switch is hit or,
The lift pump is bad as Whunter mentioned and there is gradually less and less fuel volume at low rpm as we try to drive the car everyday.
Now, we are mechanically inclined but not all that familiar with diesels yet even though we have two of these. They are starting to drive us nuts in the last month or so as both of them have gone down for inexplicable problems or self-inflicted electrical problems (one of which was entirely my fault).
I really want to fix these cars so that we can enjoy them and I understand that with these comes a certain level of things that must be fixed often, but we feel like lately it has just been one thing after the other and usually 3 or 4 things at a time.
Again, thank you to anyone who donates their time to us. We are both so busy with flight school and my wife with her job that we have had our doubts as to whether or not we can keep up with these cars even though they started off so great.
Gotta go, wife just called again and she is officially stranded.
Brandon Oswald

Does anyone think the problem might be a torque converter failure? We've had two separate shops say that to us today. We're definitely not familiar with this at all. Only that it converts torque....ha ha.
Can anyone give me a quick rundown on how this could affect our car in the ways I listed in the prev. post?
Is this an easily rebuildable part or is it more along the lines of a transmission?
Thank you,
Brandon Oswald
1979 300D "Red"
1985 300D Turbo "blue"

The torque convertor will often make a bad rattling sound when it goes. Had one that started to rattle loud and then it just broke up altogether. No power transmitted at all, just like in neutral.
But you are describing a failure to get the engine revved up? As in no power when you step on the accelerator?
It is possible the torque convertor is all mangled up in there and is holding back the engine from reving up. Once it gets going will the car move?
BTW the torque convertor is a link between the crankshaft and the transmission. The engine spins the crank, which spins the inner blades on the convertor, which in turn spin the outer blades (this is filled with trans fluid) and thus the transmission which is connected by another shaft. The torque convertor can be seen throught the bell housing between the engine and the automatic tranny.

I just had this exact problem and it turns out that it was the lever at the injection pump that was binding. It seems free now and I made it home okay (it happened during errands) but I want to make sure it doesn't happen again. How? Do I just grease all of the ball joint connections? Is it binding IN the pump? Should I use some kind of spray cleaner?

Any help would be most appreciated; this is potentially a safety problem.

Thanks!

Alex

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1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside