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  #16  
Old 08-19-2008, 06:14 PM
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Spring perches were replaced by the PO. I have the documented evidence on that. I did take a peek at the perch on the pass side anyway, suspecting that that may have contributed to the car sitting low. Then I saw the LCA.

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  #17  
Old 08-19-2008, 07:15 PM
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Sounds great. Well, if money is not an issue, it would be better to do this yourself, because getting the city involved would take more time, but the would probably reimburse.

Despite the fact that we have really good roads here, I had a problem like this back in 1995. I had a 1992 Camaro (only 3 years old at the time), with 17K miles. What had happened was that a small manhole cover flipped off of a hole near a railroad crossing. I hit the hole and the car started shaking violently. The impact damaged the steering box.

I had to get three estimates and they did the lowest price, which was $700! It was also painful to find out that the car had been involved in a serious accident in 1993, when they started seeing warped parts. I took a $6000 loss on the car and then ended up buying a 1984 Toyota.

Good luck!

BTW - I hope they got that crater hole filled. Looks like a potential life threatening issue.
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2008, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spark3542 View Post
Spring perches were replaced by the PO. I have the documented evidence on that. I did take a peek at the perch on the pass side anyway, suspecting that that may have contributed to the car sitting low. Then I saw the LCA.
Was it the dealer that did it I wonder? Either way, it is great that they were taken care of. Sweet. Jim
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  #19  
Old 08-19-2008, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
Good Point with the UCA's... getting that rear nut into place and holding it there was a PITA!!!! nothing like masking tape on a woman's fingers to hold the nut in place while you screw it in..... that didn't sound right did it? But that's how I was able to complete the UCA on the passenger side.
You were able to do it without removing the computer? Whoa. Some small hands there. It sure saved you a ton of nervous work { many weird cable connections etc. } That is great. Jim
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  #20  
Old 08-19-2008, 08:43 PM
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But playing with computers is fun!
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  #21  
Old 08-20-2008, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
You were able to do it without removing the computer? Whoa. Some small hands there. It sure saved you a ton of nervous work { many weird cable connections etc. } That is great. Jim
No no nooo... I DID remove all of the computers and loosened / removed some of the bolts holding the computer enclosure in place... Only then was I able to complete the task at hand...
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  #22  
Old 08-20-2008, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 86560SEL View Post
Sounds great. Well, if money is not an issue, it would be better to do this yourself, because getting the city involved would take more time, but the would probably reimburse.

Despite the fact that we have really good roads here, I had a problem like this back in 1995. I had a 1992 Camaro (only 3 years old at the time), with 17K miles. What had happened was that a small manhole cover flipped off of a hole near a railroad crossing. I hit the hole and the car started shaking violently. The impact damaged the steering box.

I had to get three estimates and they did the lowest price, which was $700! It was also painful to find out that the car had been involved in a serious accident in 1993, when they started seeing warped parts. I took a $6000 loss on the car and then ended up buying a 1984 Toyota.

Good luck!

BTW - I hope they got that crater hole filled. Looks like a potential life threatening issue.
Damage occurred on Fri night. Pothole was filled by next time I drove through there, which was Mon morning.

East Tenn roads are definitely better than New England, but it's all about the frost. My wife's from East Tenn. so I know it well.

I'm having a bear of a time getting the sway bar disconnected. I chewed through two T-50 torx bits, and that was after soaking it in PB Blaster. The vise grip method has failed, and even the hammer and cold chisel method failed because the bolt head appears to be hardened. I'll pick up another torx bit tonight. Anybody have any words of wisdom in getting the sway bar link off?
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  #23  
Old 08-20-2008, 12:15 PM
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I swapped my links 20K ago. Went to do the bushings recently and needed to pop them first and have snapped two bits off myself.

They are pretty tight and have blue locktite on them. You'll need to get a bit that isnt cast steel.

Isnt that one a T45?
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  #24  
Old 08-22-2008, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by michakaveli View Post
No no nooo... I DID remove all of the computers and loosened / removed some of the bolts holding the computer enclosure in place... Only then was I able to complete the task at hand...
Thats good to hear. I thought I had done some unecesary steps in the procedure. These UCA"s must not wear too bad seeing that there arent too many posts on the replacent of these. Jim
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  #25  
Old 08-23-2008, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
Thats good to hear. I thought I had done some unecesary steps in the procedure. These UCA"s must not wear too bad seeing that there arent too many posts on the replacent of these. Jim
Mine still appeared to be in good shape, but I was unable to properly re-secure the steering knuckle to that UCA ball joint after separation. It just kept spinning. The new one locks into place and stops spinning so that it can be tightened.
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  #26  
Old 08-23-2008, 05:10 PM
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To follow up:
New LCA, new ball joint, 2 new shock absorbers. This ball joint is about the easiest one I've ever replaced. Spring compressor borrowed from Autozone worked great, but fit together like a jigsaw puzzle and took a few different tries to get it inside the spring and assembled. The sway bar took (4) T50 torx bits, an impact screwdriver, and torch heat to get it free.

My 210 is back on the road, and drives great.

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05 MB E320CDI 402k Granite Grey Metallic
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