Jack up engine for oil cooler line replacement?
 

I'm changing out my radiator this weekend - my oil cooler lines are also being replaced, since they both leak like crazy.

Question: Do I have to change the shock and mounts with the engine jacked up in order to change the oil cooler lines? Or can I only change the cooler lines when I change the radiator?

On the pictorial on DieselGiant's site, he shows the procedure of change the oil cooler lines, along with the motor mounts and engine shock, all at the same time.

You're going to want to remove the engine shock and motor mount, I found it nearly impossible even with doing that. :dizzy2: Jacking the engine up a couple inches helps too. Despite all this, it will take until you're near insanity, then suddenly the lines will fit in right. :D ;)

Ugh...great. Excellent info, thanks. Although not exactly what I wanted to hear. :)

I've got so much stuff to do on this car before it gets cold, and I'm running out of weekends to do it!

- radiator (after citrus flush)
- expansion tank
- water pump
- aux water pump
- t-stat
- oil cooler lines
- glow plugs
- monovalve
- fluids/filter - oil, trans, rear diff, power steering, brake
- crazy climate control weirdness (not really sure where to start on this one)

There's probably more...that's all I have after ONLY two cups of coffee!

This job, to me, is the epitome of German engineering. I spent more time looking at the lines and the place they had to go than I did doing the work. The lines are bent and made to go exactly one way. Jack the car up as far as you safely can and they kinda twirl into place from near the transmission. Be patient, they will go without a fight and no bending. I didn't take the shock loose, but I did loosen the motor mount. Careful with the oil cooler, the threads will come off with the lines if you don't spray them well with Kroil or equivalent.

Good Luck.

Jay

Keep crud out of the hoses while you are trying to fit them by taping over the ends until you are ready to screw them on.
I would also read some threads as to unscrewing the old one as this sometimes damages the threads on the oil cooler.
It happened to me. A piece of the oil cooler threads stuck to the Nut. As I backed the nut out it tore up about 3 of the threads backing it off.
One member used a Dremel Tool with a cut off wheel a cut a slot in the nut to split it; thus avoiding the chance to damage the cooler by trying to turn the nut off.

If the Oil Cooler Threads get stripped there is a repair fitting. However it takes a big drill and tap to install the fitting.

When I changed them on my car I unbolted the engine and put a floor jack under the engine with a 2x8 on top and started jacking, the engine never moved and I stopped when the oil pan started to bend in. I found out that you can get the lines in with out removing the engine mounts.

I can get these lines out and in in under 5 minutes. The secret is to remove the unnecessary brackets that holds them in place by the motor mount arm. I don't even put it back on, the lines don't chafe on anything and are still stiff in place as there is the other bracket upstream

same here, but i use the ac bracket as well.

I'm so glad I never had to mess with those lines, what a PITA. The starter looks like an amazing job to on that engine.

As always, great info guys. Thanks.

I just realized that the oil cooler is a separate piece from the radiator itself (hold the laughter). So, when I take the radiator out, will the oil cooler still be in there? Or is it connected to the bottom of the radiator, and will need to be separated?

I also remembered that there were a few (very few) receipts in the glove box when I bought the car. I went back and checked this morning, and found that both motor mounts were replaced in January of 2007 - they should still be good. If I can not jack up the car, leave the mounts in place, and use Turbo's changing skills, I will feel like I've accomplished something.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

You can unbolt the oil cooler from the radiator. I did my oil cooler lines last week. Don't punch the engine in frustration, it hurts. Have fun ;):D

Actually Hate the starter is very easy to R/R
I had to remove it several times a few years ago because of a bad solenoid.
As for the cooler lines...Ummm You need a cold one after your done!

Really? I remember when I got my SD and looked at it I was like WTF MB put the starter on the wrong side!

I was used to the 603, they swaped sides after the 617.

Since you are removing the cooler lines anyway, you can remove the cooler along with the radiator if you want. Or you could remove the clamps at the corners and leave the cooler behind. It might be slightly easier to remove them together and mount the cooler to the new radiator before installation.

When it comes to replacing the cooler lines, time spent disconnecting the left motor mount / shock and jacking up the engine is time well spent, in my opinion. Same applies to fabricating a cooler line nut wrench.

Few tips for you,learned from my own BAD experience:
Do not over-tighten lines to oil filter housing-I had to cut off brand new line ,line and oil filter bolt got "frozen" and i didnt have that special thin wrench to hold OFH bolt:mad:
Be careful with oil cooler threads ,do not over-tight them ,you will strip aluminum thread,ask me how i know:mad: