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  #1  
Old 08-23-2008, 10:21 AM
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83 sd blower fuse issue

The fuse for the heater blower keeps blowing. So I changed out the blower motor, and it still happens. Takes about 10 min.
The fuse is #11 and runs the blower, AC compressor, and the Switch over valve idle stabilization?
Have not found anything yet looking at the blower, or the compressor.

Do not know what the other one is.
Any ideas on how to isolate this and get my blower working? Seems to drive ok by the ACC unit, as in speed changes etc.

Thanks
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Old 08-23-2008, 12:17 PM
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I know better than to try and answer this one...

Was the replacement blower "New"?

Can you get a meter (Amperes) on the circuit and test for the Offender?

(I cringe at the thought that it's the little black box below)
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  #3  
Old 08-23-2008, 12:53 PM
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Ouch,
Me too! the blower came out of another car and was working fine in that car (the 85) I will place the blower out of this car into that one tonight.
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:35 PM
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O.k.

Chances are very good that the culprit is the "Substitute" Blower Fan.
But, without amperage figures you don't know.

If it's the shaft binding because of lack of lubrication...(Warning Old Husbands/
Wives tale in the offing) "I 've heard of people using a tiny bit of ATF as a lube."

If it's the brushes George Murphy, tech guy at MBCA, has the replacements.
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Last edited by compress ignite; 08-23-2008 at 05:19 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2008, 02:55 PM
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Two differant blower fans, One out of a car that the blower has no issues, I do not see how it can be the fan? Guess it could be, What are the max amps that this thing can draw? Would like to know if my cheap little meter can handle this load before I hook it up for nothing.
Meter goes in line for Amps, correct?
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Old 08-23-2008, 04:50 PM
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Before spending any more money on blowers, check the fuse in question. There are a lot of junk fuses on the market these days, so make sure that your fuse is either copper or aluminum and that they have ceramic housings - not plastic. Because the blower draws high amperage, cheap fuses have been know to completely melt, even though the blower is fine.
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Old 08-23-2008, 05:17 PM
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No,No,No!

Do not hook your DMM/Multimeter up "INLINE" with the Blower Circuit!
It only has the capability to measure 10 amps (AT Best) ,Then the fuse blows!
( with a "Hall Effect" clamp plugged into the ports on the DMM/Multimeter,you
can measure HUGE amp loads safely.)
The Blower Motor should draw about 28 amps if it's healthy.

Yeah, check reply #6 above.

AND the same fuse runs the A/C compressor clutch?
(If we work on the, "Your having eliminated the blower as the cause", THEORY
...the next most likely cause is the clutch.)
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Last edited by compress ignite; 08-23-2008 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 08-23-2008, 06:31 PM
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I have not bought a blower. I took it out of my other car that has been running for years.
If I unplug the connector on the AC pump, that should eliminate the AC clutch correct?
I do not have the AMP clamp. So I am going to assume for now that the blower motor is ok.
I found and was using a 25A glass buss brand fuse built for the holder. I thought that would be better than the exposed wire type.
Thanks for the help.
I will check it out tonight.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:53 PM
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Thank you. the connector at the AC was broken and the wires were close to touching, I am sure that going down the road they would blow the fuse.

Ran for a 40 mile drive and the ACC is controlling temp.
Thanks
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:31 AM
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Good

Sorry you had to go to so much trouble to "Walk the Cat back".
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:51 AM
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That is ok.
Mr. Murphy and me are really close friends....
Thanks again.
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