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  #31  
Old 09-11-2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I do not see how someone can get buy without compressing the spring when removing the LCA. You shouldn't.
.
As the spring will "become" an unguided missile.
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  #32  
Old 09-12-2008, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
As the spring will "become" an unguided missile.
This is what I made and used to compress the spring. 1 inch 14 threaded rod and that rusted plate at the bottom is made of spring steel. I go the idea from one of the other members but my materials are different.
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  #33  
Old 09-12-2008, 01:39 AM
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Looks like it should work.
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  #34  
Old 09-12-2008, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
Looks like it should work.
It did work as I have used it twice now. That is it in action in the pic in post #27 but you can only see the shiny tip of it on the compressed spring.
The material cost was around $23 due to the good fortune of having a tool outlet that sells that size thread rod (36 inches long) for around $16 and the nuts sold by the pound for less than $1 each. I do not remember what the washers cost exactly.
The local hardware store wanted $3.65 for 1 nut and did not have that size threaded rod anyway; so went to the other place.
The spring steel plate was from an old 55 Chevy milk truck parts I have had for over 30 years; therefore free.
It was part of what the front bumper was bolted to.
I also had to buy a 1-1/2 flare nut crowfoot to turn the top nut as there is no room for a regular wrench under the hood.
I got that at the outlet at the same time for $10 (USA Bonney Tools).
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  #35  
Old 09-12-2008, 03:48 AM
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I have to replace both front spindle ball joints and two more in the control arms (not that suspension savvy sop i may have names wrong) and then three on my other car that are ripped. Bummer.
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  #36  
Old 09-12-2008, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by turbobenz View Post
I have to replace both front spindle ball joints and two more in the control arms (not that suspension savvy sop i may have names wrong) and then three on my other car that are ripped. Bummer.
Can be difficult and/or expensive, yet see post #29, one cost me $100 to have replaced.
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  #37  
Old 05-25-2009, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I had a lower ball (support) joint replaced at a local indy shop, they did it without removing the spindle.

Do you have any idea how the indy removed the old ball joint from the spindle?

I have spent many hours searching for a tool or some way other than a big hammer to remove the old BJ with no success. Mine is so rusted in that the BIG HAMMER hasn't even moved it.
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
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'83 Mercedes 240D
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'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
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  #38  
Old 05-25-2009, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
....
I have spent many hours searching for a tool or some way other than a big hammer to remove the old BJ with no success. Mine is so rusted in that the BIG HAMMER hasn't even moved it.

You might want to try soaking it in penetrating oil for a bit. Then get a even bigger sledge hammer. You also might want to heat up the knuckle with a propane torch and then use the sledge hammer to pop it out. Make sure your also using an intermediary device (like a big socket) to focus the blows to the joint, not the steering knuckle.
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  #39  
Old 05-26-2009, 08:06 AM
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So far, I have tried all of those tricks.
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY
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  #40  
Old 05-26-2009, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
So far, I have tried all of those tricks.
Is the spindle in a very rigid vice or supported outside the ball joint?

To get the maximum effect of the hammer, you need proper support. Any movement, whatsoever, limits the benefit of the hammer.

Furthermore, a bit of heat on the spindle will cause it to grow and allow the joint to release. Propane might do it...........but it takes awhile due to the heavy casting..........and the ball joint is heating with it.
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  #41  
Old 05-26-2009, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD8CDH View Post
Do you have any idea how the indy removed the old ball joint from the spindle?

I have spent many hours searching for a tool or some way other than a big hammer to remove the old BJ with no success. Mine is so rusted in that the BIG HAMMER hasn't even moved it.
The mechanic is friends with the Snap-On guy and borrows tools from him. I wasn't there when the work was performed.
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  #42  
Old 05-26-2009, 11:07 AM
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I burned one BJ out after I broke my 5" vise trying to drive it out.

so You may want to visit someone w/ an oxy acetylene setup. just burn the center out of it, it will drive thru easy after that.

I now have a spare set of spindles so I can do all the dirty work w/ out removing the car from service.
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  #43  
Old 05-26-2009, 01:32 PM
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Well, I finally got it out. Burned out the center with the "smoke axe" and then tried to beat it out. Still wouldn't come out. Heated the spindle up again with a torch and poured Liquid Nitrogen on the ball joint and then I was able to beat it out.The other side that I did first was no where near this hard.

By the way, the vise that I used was huge. It weighs over 100 pounds and the table had a 1" thick steel top.
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY
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  #44  
Old 05-27-2010, 04:43 PM
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Anyone interested in rebuilt spindles? I have a few I've been thinking of rebuilding as spares and offering them to forum members with exchange.
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  #45  
Old 05-27-2010, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
There should be NO damage to the ball joint, if the knuckle is removed correctly.

Look at the attached picture.
Hold one hammer against the joint.
Hit the opposite side of the joint.
Repeat as needed.

It is extremely rare for me to use more than five HARD hammer strokes.


Ball Joint Nightmare - chapter 2
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/173149-ball-joint-nightmare-chapter-2-a.html#post1355788
Post #19 shows the correct impact point for separation.

Ball joint frustration
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/110553-ball-joint-frustration.html#post771672





Have a great day.
Yup, Best way on earth! Good and cheap too, NO special tongs, ball-joint tools and all that rubbish to buy and clutter up your tool-box!

An old mechanic showed me this years ago while I worked as a mechanic and MOT Tester, Used it probably hundreds of times, on all sorts of vehicles and never damaged anything...
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W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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