Although they seem to be working fine (and just passed inspection last week), the boots are torn on both of them.

Can they be replaced w/o removing the spindle or LCA?
(I have access to the MB ball joint tool)

I just replaced the UCAs last year and don't want to tear up the new upper ball joints by taking the spindle out.

I really didn't see if this was possible at 123 Maintenance Manual Index
http://pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Index/Groups/33FrontSuspension.html

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83 300D 328k mi (623) Light Ivory - daily driver
82 300D 166k mi (881) Thisle Green - fixer upper
82 300D 282k mi (473) Champagne - parts

Well you get away with it if your gonna replace the boots . just disconnect the upper control arm and the steering knuckle should move enough out of the way.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

If you use a tie rod end puller (instead of a fork) to separte the upper ball joint, you can avoid damage to the grease boot. Trying to replace the lower ball joint with the steering knucke in place is way more trouble than it's worth. Remove them. There is no need to remove the LCA, however.

Bummer....I was hoping there was some 'trick' to do this.

Yea, I was looking at 33-500 Removal and installation of upper control arm http://pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Chassis/33-500.pdf
and the tie rod end puller seems far "less crude" than the fork.

I recall it seemed like it took far too many hits with the fork to loosen the upper ball joints from the knuckle..... (neighbors in yuppie Northern VA)

Thanks..............

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83 300D 328k mi (623) Light Ivory - daily driver
82 300D 166k mi (881) Thisle Green - fixer upper
82 300D 282k mi (473) Champagne - parts

You neighbors will really like it when you start pounding the ball joints out of the knuckle!!!

I bought one of these:
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SER&PartNumber=3916&Description=Ball+Joint+Separator
I haven't used it on a Mercedes, but I have been very happy with it on domestic vehicles, on both ball joints and tie rod ends.

Yea, I heard that's a real sob. Hopefully, the MB ball joint press will come to the rescue.

The only neighbors who cause problems are the ones who have moved into the neighborhood within the last 10 years.
These are the "new yuppies". They would have fit well into a place such as the old East Germany.
(Time to stop before ranting begins)

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83 300D 328k mi (623) Light Ivory - daily driver
82 300D 166k mi (881) Thisle Green - fixer upper
82 300D 282k mi (473) Champagne - parts

The MB press is for installing, not removing. The service manual calls for knocking the old joints out with a hammer.

Yea, thanks. I figured that to be about the price for the proper tool. Definitely better than $50 for each UCA.

NAPA's only a few miles away.

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83 300D 328k mi (623) Light Ivory - daily driver
82 300D 166k mi (881) Thisle Green - fixer upper
82 300D 282k mi (473) Champagne - parts

That pretty much answers the original question. NO CAN DO.

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83 300D 328k mi (623) Light Ivory - daily driver
82 300D 166k mi (881) Thisle Green - fixer upper
82 300D 282k mi (473) Champagne - parts

Is there some one selling the boots seperately?

As the other member suggested you can unbolt the Upper Control arm from the body and from the Sway Bar and leave it attatched to the Steering Knuckle.]

To remove the Lower Ball joint from the Steering Knuckle on my 123 I put a Hydraulic Jack under the Lower Control Arm (still mounted on the Chassie) and backed off the original Ball Joint nut so that it was several threads above the top of the Ball Joint Shaft. I heated the shaft area of the knuckle with a propane torch (this will burn the boot, do not use heat unless you plan to replace the ball joint). I bashed the Ball Joint nut 2 times with a 2 pound hammer and the joint popped out of the lower control arm. I unscrewed the distorted nut but the threads on the Ball Joint itself were still good. I used this procedure on both sides.

I would Leave the old Ball Joints on until they go bad.
If you are going to leave the old ones on you might consider wrapping the old Ball Joint with double stick rubber electrical tape to keep help keep the dirt out. After the tape is on for awhile it is like it become 1 mass of rubber and cannot peel off.

To press the Lower Ball Joints back into the Control arm you would need a piece of tubing 2 7/8 inch tall (so that it clears the Ball Joint shaft) and an inside diameter of 2 inches (to slip over the boot) and rest on the Lower Ball Joint Flange. A Vice that will open wide enough to squeeze the joint in could be use.
Some other choices could be a good quality large C-clamp or carefully tap on the tubing and pound it in.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

On a W123, the lower ball joint does not need to be pressed in to the control arm.

Don't think that the aforementioned MB ball joint press is up to the task?

There should be NO damage to the ball joint, if the knuckle is removed correctly.

Look at the attached picture.
Hold one hammer against the joint.
Hit the opposite side of the joint.
Repeat as needed.

It is extremely rare for me to use more than five HARD hammer strokes.


Ball Joint Nightmare - chapter 2
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/173149-ball-joint-nightmare-chapter-2-a.html#post1355788
Post #19 shows the correct impact point for separation.

Ball joint frustration
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/110553-ball-joint-frustration.html#post771672





Have a great day.

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__________________
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

If you decide to rent the W123 Ball Joint tool from Performance Products, phone them and ask for a firm date of the tool's shipment.....

Last April I gathered up all of the parts to rebuild my 300D's front end.....Perf Prod had originally said that the rental tool would be here by May 1st or so.....then it was the 10th.....then it was the 30th.....and so forth.....

They did return me deposit quickly when I canceled the order....!!

When you do your Ball Joints.....a little heat on the old ones will help in removal.....actually the guy that pressed mine in, used a torch and cut out the center of each Ball Joint before hammering the remains out of the spindle.....

He had a home made rig for his press....that allowed him to easily install the new Ball Joints.....

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

new boots are available from the dealer- but not recommended unless you tear the boot when doing service. Ie;- if you drive w/ a torn boot, the balljoint is compromised w/ dirt already, and will wear prematurely even with a new boot.

also the cost is comparable to new lemforder BJ's on this site.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Thanks for the info on the boots.
I started LCA bushing replacement and anything else that was worn out job about 3 weeks ago. I ended up buying some used LCAs due to the bore in one being enlarged to heavy rust scaling and I believe the other old one may be bent. I had even better luck as the used control arms came complete with real Mercedes Guide Rods that the PO must have replace (came off of an 82 300D) and still had the paper part number lable ont them (Ebay for less then $60 total cost).

Back to the point. Both of the Lower Ball Joints are nice and tight but I managed to singe the boots a little when I heated the LCA.
I figure I will not raplace them until they are no good.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel