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'82 300sd
Well, the 190D was sold out from under me... so I'm looking for another MB now... I looked on Craigslist, and there is a 1982 300SD for $1000 OBO... it looks (from the pictures) like it's in decent shape... The only issues he said need looked at, is it needs a new winshield, the dash lights don't work... and the drivers side door doesn't open from the inside... is it worth a second look? I'm asking y'all since I don't have any friends in the area that would be able to go with me to look at it that know MB cars it seems... ( I hope I'm not posting too much for being such a newbie...)
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300 sd
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'83 300D 198,000mi Howard '03 Saturn Vue CVT 75,000mi(wifeys) |
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Yes it is, sorry I should have posted the link ... I guess I'll have to figure out how to put links in here
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I would think the door problem is a linkage issue, so you'll have to pull the panel to work on it.
How many miles, anything else not work? Cruise control, windows, A/C, etc. Kind of a vague posting on C'list.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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I'll be checking it out tomorrow afternoon if it's not sold already, I emailed on it... but it's hard to know for sure... I'll check out the things you mentioned, although the cruise control isn't THAT big of an issue for me... (I've been driving my parents Nissan Sentra manual it doesn't have cruise... ) Any thoughts on it are appreciated... I just don't want to get a lemon for my first car..........
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What is the overall quality of the 617? Are there any major issues I should look out for? I'm hoping for short answers, I have been doing searches on the engines in the forums... but I'm still too new to really understand what all was said...
Last edited by Barike; 09-01-2008 at 11:43 PM. |
#7
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Well, I got a response from the seller... she said the transmission shifts good... I will need to do an oil change on it... I figure I'll replace all the filters, and change the various oils out... at least that was my thought... Hopefully before tomorrow is out, I'll have possession of it I hope y'all don't mind my asking plenty of questions this week so I make sure it's in good working order... (My judgement on things mechanical isn't as good as most of y'all, I'm 17....)
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$1000 looks like a fair price, try to talk him down to $800 or $900 though, then you can buy your self a new radio.
Make sure the engine is stone cold when you go to test drive it. It should start quickly and easily after the glow plug light goes off. Check carefully for rust and take a magnet along to be sure that the hood and trunk are the original aluminum pieces. If not you can try to talk him down some more on the price.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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Okay, my original idea was to offer $800, and haggle up to $1000 if they didn't take the $800. Thanks for the tips on what to check, I already know to check well for rust... I've got several magnets around here... I'll take one of them along... I'll probably be leaving to check it out around 12:30 CT tomorrow, so any other tips I get between now and then to check on I'll put on my list
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#10
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A lot of interior rattles are normal. And yes, start it COLD. Check for any unusual smoke.
Good luck.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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Okay, sounds good! Erm, does it work to put diesel in a gas can as long as the can isn't used for storing/transporting gas again? Or do I have to get a diesel specific can... Is it any harder to change the oil on these than a 'normal' gas engine?
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I have used gas cans for diesel for years... it's not right, but it works. the thing about changing oil is you need to change the copper washer on the drain plug, and there is a large o-ring on the oil filter canister top, and two very small o-rings on the oil filter shaft. get the small o-rings ahead of time. some filter brands have the crush washers with the filter, some don't. check the box before you drain the oil. the large o-ring has come with every filter I have ever bought.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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Quote:
Fuel cans are just that, fuel cans. doesn't matter what you put in them, generally, as long as you don't get confused which is which and refill a machine with the wrong fuel. Oil change on these engines is as simple as pulling the plug out the bottom, pulling the filter off the top, putting a new filter in, putting the drain plug back, and refilling the oil. Some will recommend a vacuum suction device to pump the oil out painfully through the dipstick tube. This is fine if you want to... but particularly in the position of being 17 and needing a cash reserve for the car - I'm 19 and in the exact same position - I'd save that money for a repair instead of a vacuum oil changing toy. Take a good close look at the condition it's in before you buy it... if it looks like it's been beat to smithereens, it probably has been. The missing hood star (I think it's missing... I could just be looking at that picture badly) is a major clue to me that they definitely weren't concerned with repairing every issue as it occurred, and weren't particularly concerned about keeping it in like-new condition. Not saying it's a sale killer, esp. if you get it for $1k or less.... but just keep an eye on it. You don't want something that's going to be more trouble to fix than it's worth.
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~Michael S.~ Past cars: 1986 300SDL 1987 300SDL 1982 240D 1982 300SD Current: 1987 300SDL |
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Okay, I'll just use one of dads gas cans and keep using it for a spare...
I'll be looking at this one VERY closely, especially now that I've been looking on here and have a better idea of what to look for. I should easily be able to change the oil then, I've been doing it on the family cars for the last several years... |
#15
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Oil changes on the MB are actually easier thanon most cars as you remove the filter from the top and don't get that nice stream of hot oil runnig down your arm.
Change the oil hot and make sure that you use diesel rated oil (Shell Rotella 15W40 for dino oil is good or Rotella 5W40 for synthetic is good) Check very carefully along the plastic body cladding as these cars tend to rust where the plastic meets the metal. Check the rear wheel openings. Check the area around the back glass as well. Get a bunch of fuel and oil filters. I usually buy four oil filters (Bosch or Mahle) four primary fuel filters ( clear plastic inline dealies) and two secondary fuel filters (look like 'oil' filters and live near the front of the engine up on top of the power steering pump. The gizmo with the linkage directly in front of the secondary filter is the cruise control actuator. If you buy the car, look up 'Diesel Purge' on this site and follow the instructions on how to do a purge. Then change the oil, transmission fluid, we have a drain plug on the torque converter so you can drain that too, brake and power steering fluids. I change my oil, go about 2500 miles than change the filter then go an additional 2500 miles before changing the oil again, but I use synthetic. If you use dino, do the filter at 1500 and the change at 3000... GOOD LUCK!
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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