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  #16  
Old 09-07-2008, 09:11 PM
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Is the housing material steel or aluminum? If it's aluminum I wouldn't use a wire brush.Too rough and you will gouge the aluminum. Use a green scrubbie pad. Steal it from the kitchen when no-one is looking. Make the mating surfaces shine like a new penny. spray a bit of aerosol copper coat on both sides of the paper gasket, homemade or otherwise, (a 38 cal. shell is good for punching bolt holes)and let it hang until it's tacky. Stick it to the housing and holds in place with the bolts.. I think you can handle the rest.

Jay

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  #17  
Old 09-07-2008, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHogan View Post
a 38 cal. shell is good for punching bolt holes
Just so there is no confusion, I am sure that Jay was referring to a spent .38 caliber shell.

Although, a well aimed wadcutter would do a great job, also.
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  #18  
Old 09-08-2008, 01:57 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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Update

So, my Permatex seal worked (at least for the time being). I let it sit over night, then snugged everything down Sunday afternoon.

After screwing around with the bypass hose straps (thanks Zeke), I finally got a good seal.

I drove it around for about 45 minutes last night, and it was nice and cool. I decided to drain it and fill it one more time last night, and...

...when I got up for work, jumped in and started it up, the temp gague shot up like a cannon. I drove about 2 minutes, and the temp was getting dangerously high. I stopped, cursed, push 'er home...I believe I forgot to burp it. She's still parked in my driveway, waiting for me to come home.

If, for some reason, I spring some more leaks, I'll have to disassemble the entire set up, polish that housing up (like many suggestions made here), and reassemble. If it doesn't leak, I'm leaving it!

BTW - what's the standard operating temp supposed to be? I thought it would run a little cooler (closer to 80), especially with nightly temps into the 60's here in Michigan.

I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks to all!
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  #19  
Old 09-08-2008, 04:09 PM
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If it is not leaking then the problem is most likely an air bubble, as you suspected. It might clear itself but it is always a good idea to fill the engine from the top rad hose (disconnect from the rad and slowly pour coolant in until it take no more and coolant comes out the radiator neck. Then, for the first drive or two drive it without tightening the cap so the cooling system doesn't pressurize which helps any air to circulate out. If you run it under pressure the air will actually expand and get more trapped. So try this and I am sure your overheating problems will clear.
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  #20  
Old 09-08-2008, 04:47 PM
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ahh it's always the last step where I strip a bolt or something generally goes wrong.

Sounds like you are pretty close now!

Good luck. Glad it all worked out!
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  #21  
Old 09-08-2008, 06:25 PM
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dont waste your time with a gasket, just silicone it and be done.
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1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

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  #22  
Old 09-09-2008, 09:47 PM
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apply permatex to clean thermostat housing. place housing on clean block,in place, to set permatex. pull apart for 5-10 minutes to allow it to set up, install.

but i prefer the gasket, so as next time there is no silicon to scrap off.

order 2 or 3 while your at it.
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  #23  
Old 09-09-2008, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post

order 2 or 3 while your at it.
That way, you will have one to use in 2035, another in 2060, and you can use the third one in 2085.

Now, where did I put the gasket I bought last week?

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