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  #1  
Old 09-11-2008, 10:24 PM
fruitcakesa's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vermont
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Weeping clutch master cylinder

I pulled up the wet d/side rug to check out the floor and found the clutch M/C is leaking.
The rubber boot that covers the rod on the top is torn and the fluid seems to be coming from that end.
Does this mean that the M/C is NG or that it just needs a new rubber boot to contain things?
The rear brake M/C reservoir was low on fluid when I got the car and the ebrake warning light stayed on.
I refilled the M/C and the light went out but I now see that this leak is the reason for the low fluid level.
Clutch operates with no gear grinding but I suppose that M/C should be dealt with.
Is it repairable or should it be replaced?
What kind of a job is it?

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1981 240D 132k 4 spd manual http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-us/40338.png
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  #2  
Old 09-12-2008, 02:04 AM
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I find it easier in the long run to pull the driver's seat to be able to get up under there, but I'm an old guy
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

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  #3  
Old 09-12-2008, 07:57 AM
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I have replaced mine. I did it with the seat in. I would guess it depends on how big you are. Taking out the seat itsn't a big deal. I put in a new part. If you can find a rebuild kit, then it should be OK. At how old these cars are, the rubber needs to be replaced about everywhere. You might think about replacing or repairing the slave cylinder while you are at it.
I have a Jeep Comanche. Some say that when the master clutch cylinder goes, the slave cylinder is not far behind. Also works the other way. Anyways, my master clutch cylinder was leaking. I replaced it and two weeks later the slave went.
Tom
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  #4  
Old 09-12-2008, 09:27 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,068
If it is leaking at the boot, you can be sure the fluid is leaking past the seals, probably due to corrosion. You need to have another one ready or try to find a seal kit ( if you can.
It's a 15 minute rebuild- you will need to have a brake hone to clean up the cylinder.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #5  
Old 09-12-2008, 10:33 AM
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They really aren't that expensive in the grand scheme of things and with clutch bleeding and all it isn't a job you want to do twice if the rebuild doesn't take.
If I ever need to do it I think I would remove the front seat. Would make is so much easier.....
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2008, 12:02 PM
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I have used the old plunger pin which makes things easier as disconnecting the linkage is a PIA. Check to see that it shows no ware.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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