W210 Window Regulator

[TMAllison]

My left rear reg died the day after Xmas as was headed to Tahoe to take daughter to play in snow. Was raining at the time and of course, the window died in the down position. What else? Took Gma's car instead and parked mine in their garage a couple of days. Later, got the door panel off and the window raised and shimmed closed using wedges. Now is time to repair.

The regulator (and mounting to the motor) is attached by 4 very heavy rivets.

Has anyone used SS machine screws and nuts to install a new reg rather than the rivets? Am thinking it would be stronger to bolt in place with lock washers and loctite and then buzz off any protruding threads than to go out and buy a heavy duty riveter that I would only use once.

Comments?

[raMBow]

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Has anyone used SS machine screws and nuts to install a new reg rather than the rivets? Am thinking it would be stronger to bolt in place with lock washers and loctite and then buzz off any protruding threads than to go out and buy a heavy duty riveter that I would only use once.

Comments?

I am sorry I seem to be on a cynical bent this evening and somehow I think you might actually use it 4 times, so the cost may seem less.

Though to me you idea seems logical presuming there are no issues with clearances. For what it is worth I will link to a lesser known site a decent article on the same that I have archived for future reference. Doesn't sound like you need the info, but just in case.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1226700-diy-pictorial-window-regulator-replacement.html

[sokoloff]

Terry - I've replaced both of my rear window regulators. On the left side I was able to get the Mercedes rivets to pop. although those are some heavy duty rivets. If you buy a rivet gun for the job, make sure you get a heavy duty one. On the right side which I did a few months ago, I could not for the life of me get the rivets to pop in place. So I just went to the hardware store and bought metric nuts/bolts/washers and used them. Worked just fine and will make my life easier the next time I have to replace it. I assume there will be a next time because I could not see any improvements on the new part vs. the old.

Len
'99 E300TD 99,500 miles

[fire2141]

Changed mine about a month ago. Rivets drilled out rather easy. I purchased a rivet gun and tried to install new rivets with no success. I ended up using small machine screws. It was easy and will make for easy removal should there be a next time.

[Matt L]

I did use 1/4-20 SS machine screws in mine. That was the best fit in the regulator for the tap that I could find. Nuts were not necessary, nor was it necessary to trim the screws.

I also fixed the regulator rather than buying a new one. It took me an extra half hour, and still works.

[jessie_eaton]

I replaced the RR regulator. I used a cheap rivet gun from Harber Freight. It required both me and my neighbor to squeeze the gun's handle at the same time. So it wasn't tough if you have a non-wimpy helper.

[TMAllison]

Thanks guys. Machine screws it will be....

[DieselAddict]

I still can't believe how horrible the window regulator design is in this car. MB used plastic pulleys that break or warp easily and cannot be replaced individually. Instead one has to replace the entire regulator which is painfully riveted in. Just a totally dumb design. Sorry, I'm just venting a little.

[raMBow]

Originally Posted by DieselAddict

I still can't believe how horrible the window regulator design is in this car. MB used plastic pulleys that break or warp easily and cannot be replaced individually. Instead one has to replace the entire regulator which is painfully riveted in. Just a totally dumb design. Sorry, I'm just venting a little.

Hey at least on my TDI VW paid for it and has some huge extended service on those, hopefully they figured it out by your '04.

[Matt L]

Originally Posted by DieselAddict

I still can't believe how horrible the window regulator design is in this car. MB used plastic pulleys that break or warp easily and cannot be replaced individually. Instead one has to replace the entire regulator which is painfully riveted in. Just a totally dumb design. Sorry, I'm just venting a little.

There should be a metal reinforcement clip around the guide jaw holder, where the cable ends unite. Adding such a clip is exactly how I fixed my broken regulator.

[DieselAddict]

Originally Posted by Matt L

There should be a metal reinforcement clip around the guide jaw holder, where the cable ends unite. Adding such a clip is exactly how I fixed my broken regulator.

My RR window regulator's upper pulley is warped which allows the cable to slip off during operation. I'm not sure what you mean by the "guide jaw holder", but it sounds like yours was a different problem. In my case I just closed the window by hand, reattached the cable, and I don't use that window anymore. If MB didn't cheap out and used metal pulleys instead, this problem would have never occurred.

Originally Posted by raMBow

Hey at least on my TDI VW paid for it and has some huge extended service on those, hopefully they figured it out by your '04.

My '04 TDI hasn't had that problem so far. Only the auto-down function on the front windows is a little messed up. It's near impossible not to trigger it even if I'm only trying to open the windows partially.

[Bodgit2]

Drilling out the rivets and using 6 mm bolts nuts and washers is the best solution. The design is retarded. They suck on BMW also.
Steve

[DieselAddict]

My other rear window regulator just failed yesterday as well. The upper plastic pulley simply shattered into many pieces. Last night I reinstalled the cable and window in the closed position, but I think it's time to replace both rear window regulators even though I don't use these windows but if I decide to try to sell the car again I don't think anyone's going to buy it for a decent price with both rear windows not working. Sounds like going with screws or bolts is easier than using rivets.

[TMAllison]

DA - If you're keeping yours get the more expensive OEM regulators rather than cheapo chinese ebay models.

Mine broke again after a year or so. Maybe used it 20 times.

I used nuts and machine screws; worked fine. The pop rivets are 3/16" steel rivets. It requires a VERY heavy duty riveter to install.

[DieselAddict]

You mean this one?



I see little change from the original. Only the color of the motor gear is different.

I have a question regarding synchronization of the windows. I've read that the windows need to be synchronized by holding the UP switch for 5 seconds after the window closes. Is that true? What's the symptom of the window not being sychronized?